Scooter Doc
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Post by Gti on Jul 28, 2012 18:57:02 GMT -6
I finally finished Project Over My Head and I have a little more bugs to work out tomorrow. I am able to ride fine with no issues up to about 25 mph. When I try to give it the beans it starts to break up a great deal, but will simmer down and once I get out of the throttle and cruise on. Here is what I have done since he last I posted.
63MM BBK +4 Stroker Crank 61 MM NCY head High Torque Starter New Stator New Solenoid NCY CDI NCY Direct Ignition Coil 30MM CVK Carb A14 Cam Heavy Duty Start clutch
Thanks for your help Guys!!!
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Doc's Anything Goes
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Post by tvnacman on Jul 28, 2012 19:07:37 GMT -6
the problem is in the carb . I understand that 30mm carb is tricky to tune .
I would get a vacuume gauge on it .
John
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Doc's Anything Goes
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Post by jct842 on Jul 28, 2012 23:27:28 GMT -6
I think I would go back to a jetted stock carb and get the engine running right there before messing with a carb that big. The size of the manifold and passages in the head are more in tune for a smaller carb. When you open that one up you more than likely are creating a zero vacuum condition. john
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Post by Alleyoop on Jul 28, 2012 23:52:13 GMT -6
Ok do this to find out what is the problem, RICH OR LEAN: When it JUST starts to ACT up BACK OFF THE THROTTLE about 1/4 of an INCH and HOLD IT THERE: A. If it speeds up it is LEAN B. If it sputters and acts up a little BUT SETTLES DOWN it is RICH.
That will tell you which way to go, smaller MAIN JET or Bigger Main Jet
If it makes a POPPING sound that tells you it is RICH. If it makes a BRUPING sound that tells you it is LEAN. Alleyoop
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Scooter Doc
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Post by Gti on Jul 29, 2012 4:26:31 GMT -6
Thanks Guys will do that this morning. I also added a new NCY Teflon intake instead of the stock on of the aluminum one I had earlier. but if I am having any more issues I will definately ru the stock carb again today.
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Doc's Anything Goes
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Post by tvnacman on Jul 29, 2012 5:48:01 GMT -6
don't get me wrong I have heard of the 30mm carb working . IMO the effort not worth the gain if any .
John
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Post by Bashan on Jul 29, 2012 7:27:59 GMT -6
Just floating balloons here but maybe it's starving for gas before it transfers all the way over to the main jet. Try goosing up the A/F screw and maybe a bigger low speed jet. Rich
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Post by Random Hero on Jul 29, 2012 10:41:02 GMT -6
i did not have a problem with my 30mm carb. Maybe because i ran it without a air filter maybe not.
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Post by parkrider on Jul 31, 2012 2:13:27 GMT -6
QUESTION OF BALANCE Many say the stock air system is better because it is tuned to the VAC needs of the carb gas flow. beside drawing a lot of heat from engine compartments, mini uni's and that ellk can create to much vac or too little, both effect - "The pull of Gas" through the system, which can be tamed, but never completly, as that taming is a compansation not a cure. at 13, 800 my last engine started farting/dying at wot, at 14300 i popped a valve cap and chucked engine, got new one new engene now has got wot dying too, rich or lean. I put in new coil, it ran a little worse, kept new spark cap and put in old coil, it ran better, but still wot dying, could not believe old coil was better , put new back on, nope sure as hell old coil worked better with new spark wire and i promised my self not to try new coil again because of logic of old/new. put in new scrappy 10.00 CDI, WOW MOMA RUNS A HECK OF A LOT BETTER, REAL SMOOTH AND PEPPY. new engine Still dies at wot. Dam maybe i should have kept old engine and fixed. Next and will try these one at a time- 1. valves 2. then new spark plug 3. if still bad I will take out brand new xingyue engene pick up and put in new scrappy pick up but old engine did this wot thing too. I wrote all this cause it mystifies me that my intuition still tells me it is not any of the last three things i mentioned also i have a on carb side gas pump kit on the way. PS WOT problem is worse with red head on back of bike. hope this helped
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