Clinician
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Post by dhull on Sept 3, 2012 14:46:33 GMT -6
I have a YY250T that won't try to start anymore. I rode it all last year and this year up until two weeks ago. A year ago the thumb starter switch stopped responding, so I began starting it with the remote. That worked great, except when I would forget to deactivate the alarm. After draining the battery about 6-8 times I bought a new new one.
Now we're about a month later and the starter has quit responding to the remote also. The remote can activate/deactivate the alarm, but nothing from the starter.
I bought a new number switch, but it didn't match my bike. While I had it apart I connected the starter wires and still got nothing from the starter.
Is there a fuse somewhere between the switch and the starter that may have blown?
Gas is too expensive to keep driving my car. Someone please help me get this thing going again!
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Doc's Anything Goes
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Post by jct842 on Sept 3, 2012 16:20:20 GMT -6
If the fuse for remote has blown let it go and forget the remote. Trouble shoot the starting circuit and find out why it is not working. For starters see that the brake lights are working from both brake levers. If that is the case and they are working check the starter solenoid. There are generic wiring diagrams here in the library. The power to the start button comes from the brake light and goes to the start solenoid. If you do not have a digital meter it is time to buy one so you can repair your scooter.
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Post by Bashan on Sept 4, 2012 8:55:11 GMT -6
Here are the wiring diagrams for the Reflex clones. You can see on the YY250T there is no fuse between the starter button and solenoid. If you mean you connected the wires that hook onto the solenoid and nothing happened that narrows things down a lot. That creates a direct connection between the battery and the starter. If that's what you did it is either a bad starter, bad ground, or bad battery. Look at the diagram and you'll see what I mean.
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Clinician
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Post by dhull on Sept 4, 2012 12:31:15 GMT -6
jct842, I'm a real novice when it comes to vehicle electrical systems, but I checked the brake lights. With the key turned on (so the dash instrument lights are on), I get no brake light with either brake handle.
Can you tell me what that might indicate or what I need to check next?
I do have a digital multimeter but I've used it very little.
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Post by Alleyoop on Sept 4, 2012 12:52:23 GMT -6
Let me ask this even though your brake lights do not come on does it spin the starter?
Also have you checked to see if JUMPING the RELAY(touching both terminals on the relay spin your starter)? Alleyoopl
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Clinician
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Post by dhull on Sept 4, 2012 15:44:50 GMT -6
I peeled off the plastics (hope I can remember how to put the puzzle back together again) and jumped the solenoid/relay posts with a screwdriver and the starter jumped to life.
Does that mean I have a bad relay?
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Post by Alleyoop on Sept 4, 2012 16:08:35 GMT -6
Yes, it appears your relay is bad. Alleyoop
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Clinician
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Post by dhull on Sept 4, 2012 18:00:02 GMT -6
$12.95 + free shipping and it's on its way. Thanks for the assist!
Are there any instructions for putting the plastics back together on these?
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Post by Cruiser on Sept 5, 2012 0:20:21 GMT -6
jct842, I'm a real novice when it comes to vehicle electrical systems, but I checked the brake lights. With the key turned on (so the dash instrument lights are on), I get no brake light with either brake handle. Can you tell me what that might indicate or what I need to check next? I do have a digital multimeter but I've used it very little. You may have a bad starter relay, but the new one may not work if the brake lights are not working. If the bulbs are bad then it will not affect the starting circuit. If no 12 volts to the brake lights, then the yellow/green wire to the starter relay may also have no 12 volts to activate the relay. Set your meter to measure DC volts and put the black lead on the battery negative and the red lead on the terminal where the yellow/green wire connects to the starter relay. Turn on the key and squeeze either brake. You should get a 12 volt reading with both brakes. If not, then you have to fix this problem in order to get the starter working.
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Doc's Anything Goes
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Post by jct842 on Sept 5, 2012 12:22:17 GMT -6
Go with what Cruiser said.
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Post by dhull on Sept 10, 2012 16:20:13 GMT -6
I'm getting nothing on the relay terminal where the yellow/green wire connects so it looks like the yellow/green wire to the starter relay isn't getting the 12 volts to activate the relay. What does that indicate?
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Post by Cruiser on Sept 10, 2012 21:45:27 GMT -6
Since the brake lights also do not work, it looks like the brake switches either are not getting 12 volts when the key is turned on or both switches are defective. Here's a picture of the fuse box which is located next to the battery: Check the fuses to make sure they are not blown. Another problem with this fuse box is that the connectors at the bottom of the fuses tend to push out and have to be reseated from the bottom. There is a fuse for the brake circuit which could be the culprit.
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Post by dhull on Sept 11, 2012 9:46:34 GMT -6
My battery box doesn't look like yours. There's no fuse box near it. I could only find one fuse in the area. Could this fuse box be somewhere else on the bike? Here are photos of the battery box (which is off the bike) and the engine compartment where the battery goes. I put a green circle around the only fuse that I could find.
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Post by Cruiser on Sept 11, 2012 19:24:06 GMT -6
My YY250T has a 244cc Honda clone engine. Yours has the Linhai engine which means your scoot is not a YY250T. That's one reason why the fuse circuits are different. Why do you call your scoot a YY250T?
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Post by dhull on Sept 11, 2012 19:42:36 GMT -6
I've tried describing it as a Roketa cloneon some forums and people told me that if it had a 244cc motor it was a YY250T. My engine tag says it's a 244.3cc motor, so I figured that's what it was.
What do I call this thing, then?
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