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Post by dhull on Jun 21, 2016 9:31:24 GMT -6
To help Big Red (my 2008 MC-54-250b) keep his battery up, I recently added a Coleman 12v solar panel to make some use of the sun's rays while he's parked outside and waiting for the next ride. The panel is part number 58215 and comes two in a box for about $30. The 7' wire comes with a connector that matches my quick-connect battery charging cable that is attached to the battery. I ran the wire inside the body panels and out the fuel tank door so it's out of the way.
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Post by dhull on Jun 15, 2016 12:03:10 GMT -6
Nevermind, fellow scooters. I found the answer on another thread. In actuality, the brake lights have always been on. I hit the starter without pulling the brake handle and it turned over, so I looked and sure enough, my left side brake switch was stuck.
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Post by dhull on Jun 15, 2016 11:48:23 GMT -6
It's inspection time for Big Red, my MC-54-250b, and I have a lighting problem. I have tail lights, but there is no change to their brightness when I apply the brake handles. The brake switches seem to be working because I can start the bike, which I wouldn't be able to do if they were bad.
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Post by dhull on Jun 10, 2016 10:58:21 GMT -6
I have a 2008 MC-54-250b and it's time to replace the battery again. I've read about the BikeMaster TruGel batteries being a longer-lasting alternative to the stock style. Anyone have any experience with them? If so, what part number works for the MC-54-250b?
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Post by dhull on Jun 30, 2015 7:05:45 GMT -6
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Post by dhull on Jun 27, 2015 12:19:08 GMT -6
Thanks for the advice. Is there any sure-fire way of telling which bike I have?
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Post by dhull on Jun 27, 2015 8:46:28 GMT -6
Halfway to work this week, Big Red rounded a corner and lost power to the wheel. I thought I had broken the belt but upon taking off the CVT cover, I found that everything looked good there, so it was on to the other side of the bike.
Muffler off, brake caliper off, swingarm off, axle nut off, tire deflated and wheel assembly pulled from the axle shaft. Inside the wheel hub was not a pretty site. The splines are worn down pretty smooth, so it needs to be replaced. The problem is that this wheel assembly is only about a year old. When I replaced it, there was a bit of side-to-side wobble, so I packed it with grease, slid it on and used a couple of washers for spacers to try to tighten the nut up and take out the wobble.
Apparently the splines in the wheel and the axle shaft weren't tight enough of a fit and it allowed some play, which eventually wore out the wheel splines completely. The axle shaft splines look pretty good, so I don't think it needs to be replaced.
The question is: How do I find the right wheel assembly to match my axle shaft properly so I'm not going through this again next year? Are there that many variations in the spline specs?
Would I be better off buying a new axle shaft and wheel that match? If so, how hard is it to remove the axle shaft from this point? I've done some searching but haven't found any good instructions so far. If it's not too hard, I think it might be worth it to pull the shaft so I can physically see if it matches the wheel splines.
Big Red is a Roketa MC-54-250b clone and the tag on the frame reads Cyprus 250. He has 16,600 miles on him and isn't done yet, so please help me keep him on the road.
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Post by dhull on May 27, 2015 7:02:54 GMT -6
Okay, repairs are done and here's the update. I wish the situation was a bit more exotic and i didn't look quite so stupid, but the truth is that when I got down under the bike, I found the the exhaust pipe had completely disconnected from the exhaust port. The nuts had worked their way off and the pipe was just hanging there. Of course the donut gasket was gone, so did a little searching and decided to follow Alleyoop's steps on how to make your own exhaust gasket from wire. A trip to Lowes and $3.00 later I had a couple of feet of 6 gauge copper wire and two 8M nuts and lock-washers The gasket fix worked perfectly and I'm back on the road. The only way I can make this story really intriguing is what I think caused the exhaust nuts to loosen and fall off. My guess is that the February 6 laydown started the process and jolted them loose, but another factor probably contributed. In April I was riding to work when the bike just bogged down and died. On the side of the road I tried the started and it fired back up, but the throttle gave me no power to the wheels. After 15,800 miles I had finally broken the belt. Fortunately, a new belt had been on my Christmas list last year and Santa had come through, so I had the replacement hanging on the garage wall. I pushed Big Red into the driveway of an abandoned house that was for sale, got my tools and began taking the CVT cover off. A few bruised knuckles later, this is what I found: The belt hadn't just broken. It had exploded into a thousand bits and the remaining radial cord had wound itself around the clutch. When it blew, it took out several of the teeth on the variator fan as well. I extracted the cord, reset the variator, installed the new belt and got back on the road. When I was done, I was amazed at how smooth the acceleration and ride had become. It made me realize that the bike had been shuddering on take off for quite a while and I had just gotten used to it. Apparently the belt had been trying to warn me for some time but I wasn't paying attention. My guess is that the excessive shuddering helped to work the nuts completely loose from the exhaust port and contributed to that problem. The belt replacement was my first dive into the CVT, and it inspired me to do an upgrade. I've ordered a set of 14g Dr. Pulley slider weights which should be waiting for me when I get home, so this afternoon I plan on doing a quick install and we'll see what kind of performance/speed/MPG changes they bring.
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Post by dhull on May 20, 2015 13:57:40 GMT -6
Wow, you're gonna make me admit this. I was really stupid because it was the first warm and dry day after temperatures in the teens, so I was wearing a pair of shorts instead of my usual riding pants. When the bike came out from under me, I went off on the right side and my right knee made contact with the pavement. I immediately flipped over onto my back and slid a couple of feet on my jacket's back armor.
I ended up with a road-rashed knee scrape almost the size of a baseball. I'll spare you the photo I took. I manned up, though, and went on to my night-shift job where I was headed, which requires about 5 miles of walking. It really didn't hurt until the next day, but I learned to keep it covered and moist with antibiotic cream.
That was three months ago, and the scar is now just a dark brown tan (road rash is technically a burn) about the size of a chicken egg.
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Post by dhull on May 20, 2015 10:50:58 GMT -6
Big Red has decided it's time to wake up the neighbors.
Over the past few weeks I have noticed a noise coming from my MC-54-250B (16,200 miles so far). When the engine is under load I could hear a very slight tfff-tfff-tfff... sound, which sounded like an innocent exhaust leak. Last night while riding I noticed that Big Red was starting to roar and my ride got progressively louder as I went to work. After work I started him up and wanted to ask who had replaced my mild-mannered scoot with a fire-breathing Harley.
What was a simple tfff-tfff was now a full-on rumble, complete with the occasional backfire on deceleration. It was so loud that I felt the need to coast into my neighborhood to keep the peace with my neighbors.
I plan on checking it out this afternoon when I get home, but I'd like to have an opinion on where the problem is. My guess is that the little metal ring gasket between the engine exhaust outlet and the muffler pipe has worked its way out and is no longer with me. Is there somewhere else that I should check?
Here's a small backstory that might shed some light. A few months ago (February 6), I was taking a right-hand turn and hit a pile of dried road salt, which took the bike out from under me and laid it on its right side for a 15-20 foot skid. Since that is the side with the muffler, which took the brunt of the road contact, I'm wondering if that didn't flex that joint and cause it to loosen and possibly damage the gasket, which gradually worked its way out.
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Post by dhull on Oct 24, 2014 6:15:46 GMT -6
No charging problems at all. I changed the turn signals to LEDs, which may have reduced the draw elsewhere to offset any extra by the headlights.
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Post by dhull on Oct 8, 2014 6:31:53 GMT -6
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Post by dhull on Oct 3, 2014 5:36:07 GMT -6
Other than a small electrical hiccup here and there (mostly due to some experimentation with Xenon headlights and LEDs), not much. I replaced the R/R a year ago.
My biggest repair came this summer when I had to replace the rear wheel, brake rotor and swing arm. The axle nut had worked its way loose came off during a ride in to work and the swing arm flexed outward enough to crack on a right-hand turn, allowing the axle to slip out of the bearing. Fortunately it caught the inside of the swing arm before things got catastrophic. I had to wait almost two months to get all the parts but Red's rear end is in better shape than ever now.
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Post by dhull on Oct 2, 2014 9:09:48 GMT -6
Here is my trusty steed Big Red, a 2008 Cyprus 250, along with a few of his custom additions. I bought him in the Fall of 2010 when he was just getting broken in at 5,500 miles and it's been a great ride ever since! Red has Xenon headlights that make street signs absolutely glow in the dark and LED turn signals all around. The 7jurock aftermarket windshield (24 inches tall and 17 inches wide) and the red handguards work together to block even the coldest winter winds so I can ride year-round in SW Missouri. When I bought him, he had some very faded vinyl decals of a flaming eagle on each side. Although I liked the design, the fading made them look bad, so I decided to peel them off and when I did, I was very excited to see that the paint of the bike had faded all around the decals, leaving an awesome ghost image of the design! To give me quick access to my phone's GPS and road tunes, I installed a Ram Mount X-Grip with a short arm so I can angle it as needed. I've used both a Samsung Galaxy Nexus and my current LG G2 (shown displaying the excellent Car Home Ultra app) in the mount. It takes a second to mount and unmount the phone and neither phone ever even slipped a little. A great buy that I wouldn't live without! My Bluetooth helmet is the companion piece to my smartphone, giving me music while I ride and the ability to take/make phone calls hands-free.
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Post by dhull on Oct 2, 2014 8:19:29 GMT -6
Problem solved. I opened up the back compartment and pulled out the bulb housings. I removed one bulb, turned the key on, started the motor and the remaining bulb worked. I had a spare bulb for my 150 bike that was a different brand and size, so I decided to try it out and it worked also.
The bulbs I had been using that no longer worked were Sylvania SilverStar 1157s. According to the package, the other size (7528) had a lesser power draw, so I got a new package of them, put them in and everything is working again.
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