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Post by dhull on Sept 25, 2014 5:43:44 GMT -6
I haven't added anything to the bike and I haven't checked the battery, but this has been going on for almost a week now and there hasn't been any noticeable drain on it. It kicks up the starter every time without hesitation.
I replaced the R/R about two years ago. I had started noticing black drops of something on my muffler and there was a very bitter smell. The drops were from the black resin of the R/R melting as it got hot. I haven't had any electrical issues until this.
I have a multimeter and can check the battery. What voltage should I be getting?
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Post by dhull on Sept 24, 2014 16:08:41 GMT -6
Yes. After I start the engine the tail lights and brake lights stop working. They work with the key on but the engine not running.
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Post by dhull on Sept 24, 2014 14:39:44 GMT -6
New symptom to report: the tail lights and brake lights work with the key on but I get nothing from them when the bike is running.
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Post by dhull on Sept 22, 2014 7:27:13 GMT -6
I think I've blown a fuse, but I'm not sure where it is and I need help locating it. On Friday night, my taillights and brake lights went out. Rear turn signals work fine, but all red lights are out on the back of the bike.
I've seen photos of a fusebox that fits in a hole next to the battery. My bike does not have a fusebox there. It is just an empty hole. The inline fuse at the battery is fine, so the problem is somewhere else.
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Clinician
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Post by dhull on Sept 18, 2014 9:11:44 GMT -6
Okay, after 14,000 faithful miles, I'm going to reward Big Red (my trusty Cyprus 250) with a horn upgrade. I want to give him something that has a little more beefy sound. Here's the catch: I really just want a plug-and-play solution that I can do quickly using the existing wires.
Anyone know of a great horn that is ready to go for Big Red?
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Post by dhull on Sept 9, 2014 11:45:32 GMT -6
Problem solved. My scoot needs Normally Open (NO) switches that close the circuit when activated. The switches that I received were Normally CLosed (NC) switches, so the circuit was closed until the switch was activated, making the brake lights operate backwards.
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Post by dhull on Aug 26, 2014 7:07:20 GMT -6
I have a 2008 MC-54-250B with a strange problem. Both brake switches failed last week, which is not that strange for these bikes. I've replaced the rear brake switch twice already because they apparently are known to fail. The strange part came after the replacement switch had been installed for the rear brake. When I got home after my ride to work last night, I discovered that my brake lights were on constantly. I pulled the left brake handle and they turned OFF. The new switch is working BACKWARDS--the brake lights stay on until the brake handle is pulled. Even though I figured that this is just a dumb switch, I pulled the two wires off and switched each one to the other terminal, but got the same result. Any idea why I would get this result?
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Post by dhull on Jun 11, 2014 8:08:29 GMT -6
Big Red, my trusy MC-54B-250 is down! I need a swing arm (or as Roketa calls it, "REAR SHOCK BRACKET ABSORBER").
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Post by dhull on May 10, 2013 6:39:20 GMT -6
R/R is definitely toast, and it answers another question I had. When the weather got warm enough to ride in February, after I would get home, there would be a bitter smell that I couldn't identify. There also seemed to be a couple of drops of a strange substance on top of the muffler that was the origin of the smell. Turns out that the R/R's resin (or whatever that stuff is on the back) had been heating up enough to melt and drip a few drops on to the muffler.
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Post by dhull on May 9, 2013 13:08:39 GMT -6
Thanks! I was sort of suspecting that. If you bought your new R/R online, could you post a link?
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Post by dhull on May 9, 2013 8:15:18 GMT -6
After changing almost all of my lights to LEDs, I burned up my battery with too much voltage from the charging system. I've changed some lights back (headlights are 50/50 Xenons and the stop/tail lights are Sylvania Silverstars now), to try to hit a happy medium. My new battery measures about 12.75 - 13 across the terminals at idle.
What should the battery voltage measure at higher RPMs like 1k, 2k, 3k, 4k etc? I don't want to blow another battery.
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Post by dhull on Sept 11, 2012 19:42:36 GMT -6
I've tried describing it as a Roketa cloneon some forums and people told me that if it had a 244cc motor it was a YY250T. My engine tag says it's a 244.3cc motor, so I figured that's what it was.
What do I call this thing, then?
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Post by dhull on Sept 11, 2012 9:46:34 GMT -6
My battery box doesn't look like yours. There's no fuse box near it. I could only find one fuse in the area. Could this fuse box be somewhere else on the bike? Here are photos of the battery box (which is off the bike) and the engine compartment where the battery goes. I put a green circle around the only fuse that I could find.
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Post by dhull on Sept 10, 2012 16:20:13 GMT -6
I'm getting nothing on the relay terminal where the yellow/green wire connects so it looks like the yellow/green wire to the starter relay isn't getting the 12 volts to activate the relay. What does that indicate?
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Post by dhull on Sept 4, 2012 18:00:02 GMT -6
$12.95 + free shipping and it's on its way. Thanks for the assist!
Are there any instructions for putting the plastics back together on these?
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