Eurospeed 250 stalls and dies By shuadchaun (Read 3,811 times)

[shuadchaun]

I have a Eurospeed ES250D that is a rebranded ZNEN 250.
Last week riding to work as I was accelerating it started to do a strange lurching acceleration then stopped accelerating and seemed like it was no longer getting fuel. Then the engine stalled.
I got it pulled over and tried to restart. It sounded like it was trying to turn over but wouldn't quite catch. After sitting for about 10 minutes I was able to get it to start again and got to work. Going home I got about half way home when it did it again and couldn't get going any further. I did get my bike home the next evening in one shot.
After reading through the forums here I thought it could be the valves. Tried adjusting those in my driveway after getting it warmed up. As far as I can tell I haven't had an impact on improving it because after another 10 minutes of trying to get things better it surged and died.

I have very little experience working on scooters. This is my first bike of any kind.
Any ideas?

Adding pics of everything I can think of that might be pertinent to aid in helping.
Thank you.

[Alleyoop]

Welcome Shuad good to have you on the forum. That is a very nice looking scoot like the 2 tone colors on it very nice.

I see it has the HELIX 244cc motor which has the valve adjustments on the outside of the head very easy to adjust.

It could be the tank is not venting for some reason and when they do that it stops the fuel from flowing.
Try Loosing the Gas Cap from the LOCK POSITION and see if that helps.

Here is a VIDEO on how to adjust the valves on the motor:
Alleyoop

[shuadchaun]

Thanks for having me.
After it got to the point I took the gas cap off and tried getting it going again. It still wouldn't start.
Prior to that the only way to keep it running was to keep it giving it gas.

When I was trying to adjust the valves that's the video I used as reference.

[Alleyoop]

Ok, seems it is running LEAN then, they do set the CARBS real lean to pass EMSISSIONs.
The FUEL RATIO MIXTURE screw is UNDERNEATH the carb by the INTAKE MANIFOLD SIDE.
It is a pain to get to but if you may able to get your fingers in there with a little screwdriver bit.

Some folks loosen the clamps and Rotate the Carb just enough to be able to get at the screw.
GIve the screw a 1 full turn COUNTER CLOCKWISE to give it more fuel rotate it back tighten the clamp and try that.

After that 1ST full turn if it acts better then AFTER THAT only turn it 1/4 turns so you do not GO TO RICH. WHAT YOU WANT is to get the HIGHEST IDLE AFTER the motor is nice and warm.

Also the SCREW MAY HAVE BE CAPPED some have a PLASTIC CAP SOME actually they cap them with BRASS(which you then have to DRILL OUT --the cap is not very thick only about 1/8 thick so you do not want to drill the center no more than 1/8 then get a screw and screw it into the hole you made and pull the plug out.
Here is your CARB and where the FUEL RATIO MIXTURE IS:

Alleyoop

Here is the LEFT SIDE OF YOUR CARB:



Here is the RIGHT SIDE OF YOUR CARB:

[shuadchaun]

Thanks for pointing out where that fuel/air ratio screw is located. I had been trying to locate it based on other posts I had seen from you.

When I get home tonight I will see if I can find it.

Thanks,
ShuadChaun

[shuadchaun]

After stripping off some of the panels and finally getting to the A/F mixture screw, I adjusted it.
One full turn counter-clockwise.
It ran rougher for the first few minutes, then as it started getting warm it stalled and died.
I think I have killed the battery in my attempts to start it again.
Now it doesn't want to start.

Any ideas?
For the record I'm not that mechanically gifted. If I'm given a set of instructions I can follow them pretty well and have a basic idea of how an auto engine works.

[shuadchaun]

For anyone that winds up with a similar issue.
I wound up taking my scoot into the shop because no amount of adjustment on my part seemed to help.

It turned out to be the pickup sensor. Andrew at Scooter Solution in Fountain Valley did an excellent job and got my Raven running for me.

Hopefully this info helps someone else.

[Alleyoop]

WOW!! the pickup coil went south that is not very common but it does happen. It must of been a bad piece to start off with, they ususally last a very long time.

Glad to hear they found the problem, we eventually would have gotten to you testing for Spark and eventually would have narrowed it down. Usually it is the CDI or COIL but very rarely it is the Pickup Coil it usually winds up being the Stator if it is not the Coil or CDI.

Thank you for posting what the problem was, that will help others to test the Pickup coil when a similar problem happens to their scoot.
Ride Safe
Alleyoop

[larrys2dogs]

I am having a similar issue. What is a pickup coil and where is it located? Thanks.

[shuadchaun]

From what I understand the pick up coil is located in the engine itself. I didn't do the replacement myself so I don't know exactly.
I do have the original part, but it's at home. I'll try to get a picture of it and post it so you can see what you're looking for.

[Alleyoop]

It is behind the SIDE COVER on the muffler side.
Alleyoop

[borris120]

Guys,
I have not had my 244 motor open yet, when one accesses the stator via the side cover, does the oil need to be drained? Are new gaskets needed to replace the side cover? It does seem like in the picture above, that a liquid gasket was used.
I have had some of the same complaints. The bike has been a little hard to start since I've had it, if I can get it to pop on the first or second rotation, and keep the throttle turned, I can keep it alive until it warms up. If it dies, same goes. I have spent several minutes getting it restarted following a stall at a stoplight. Recently I did as mentioned above, the idle screw was over 3.5 turns out. Now I am sitting around 2.25-2.5 I only turned it down until I started feeling resistance and could hear the spring tightening. As before, the idle screw is close to max, but it starts right up instead of minutes of cranking. Seemed as if it was running very rich before, smelled lots of gas at both WOT and idle.
Sorry to be so long winded, but I also hooked up a voltage gauge with alligator clips, and noticed that the most charge I was receiving was 12.25v with the fan off.
All that to say, before fixed, did your engine run rich - smelling like gas all of the time? Were you losing charge on your battery all of the time? I hope this is the problem so I can fix it and be done, but want some confirmation before I start cracking my engine open.

Boris