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Post by borris120 on Sept 17, 2013 0:04:21 GMT -6
Well that solved a little puzzle in my mind. I couldnt see taller gearing doing anything but slowing mine down.
Bearing kits for front and back, or piece meal?
Thanks,
Boris
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Post by borris120 on Sept 17, 2013 0:01:15 GMT -6
Well when I put it up on the stand, and the engine is cold, the fan will shut off. Then it will kick on just above 1/4 for a minute or so until the needle drops, then back on again once it gets just above 1/4. It has been pretty reliable in that respect. Possibly there is a ground when it is off of the stand, completing the circuit, and keeping the fan on all of the time? I will have to take a peek tomorrow. On which side is the thermo switch located?
I appreciate the help,
Boris
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Post by borris120 on Sept 16, 2013 18:22:50 GMT -6
Funny KZ.
Alley: when you put the 16/37's in there, did you have any engine mods at the time? I wouldnt mind doing the swap and then tuning the engine after, but I don't want to kill the engine while taking off. If you've already got the 18/36 gears in let me know.
Also, are there any kits out there which contain all seals and bearings for the rear end? I have the 244 helix if that helps.
Boris
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Post by borris120 on Sept 16, 2013 18:16:04 GMT -6
Are you saying that the fan shouldnt be on when I turn the key? As I said before there seems to be a switch on the stand, because when I start the engine the fan is on. If I then put the bike up on the stand, the fan will cut off. Once it gets warm, the fan will come on and off intermittently.
I wonder if I can get another gauge for coolant temperature? Or possibly it is the sensor? I might just replace the whole getup.
Boris
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Post by borris120 on Sept 16, 2013 15:59:41 GMT -6
So, I've had it up to the 1/2 mark on a hot day after being on a highway. Generally it gets up to 1/4 and then the fan will kick on if it is up on the stand. If I am driving, the fan is always on. In fact, when I turn the ignition, the fan is on. I was thinking of getting a cutoff switch, but knowing myself, I wouldnt turn it back on until the engine has seized. Was thinking of getting a different thermo-gauge, and/or getting a different thermostat for the fan. I don't mind doing some custom work as I am looking at putting in an EGT sensor and gauge. I really want to get max efficiency as both a prior hyper miler and pilot. Barometric pressure can play a hefty role in the function of a carbureted engine, and we can see 2" of change in a day here, over 3" in a week. I just figured I would put in an EGT and remote the mixture screw.
Either way, I had the cardboard as a reserve idea once our harsh winters arrive, but until then I need a solution because the engine will only want to idle unassisted once it is sitting at 1/8 on the temp gauge.
Boris
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Post by borris120 on Sept 16, 2013 15:45:35 GMT -6
Hello from SLC
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Post by borris120 on Sept 13, 2013 2:30:34 GMT -6
I thought the 150 was 004 and 005?
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Post by borris120 on Sept 11, 2013 2:11:27 GMT -6
Copper is great because it is malleable and will form to your head better. The last one I installed was stamped steel. I would take the copper over steel.
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Post by borris120 on Sept 11, 2013 2:07:33 GMT -6
I appreciate that jct842. I've heard of dyna beads and have thought of getting some to try out, possibly in this case. There is a motorcycle wheel balancing stand at harbor freight for $20 I think, so I will probably get that, but I like the improvisation of the rope and will use that in a pinch. I will also be checking for out of round and cupping. Worst case, if it takes too much time, I'll just get the tires. Again, two different mechanics worked on the two different tires at different times, I am almost sure the balance mark was not properly oriented, so I will probably start there. Thanks again!
Boris
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Post by borris120 on Sept 10, 2013 10:53:34 GMT -6
I have the same intake- I have the flutter valve(nipple) where your mystery nub is. After a flooding incident, I noticed that the excess fuel had made its way to the air filter, then out of the 'mystery nub' via the flutter valve. So that appears to be its primary purpose.
In the second picture top right is from the valve cover, top left is the vacuum source/where the oil vapor becomes recycled back into the intake. There should be a nylon sponge material inside of that little box which is supposed to trap the oil itself to keep it from blowing back into the intake. Where you have the flutter valve, I have a clear hose about 5-6" long with a plug and clamp on the other end. The excess oil builds up in the tube and I can see it accumulate. If/when necessary it reminds me to top off oil if between changes, and if it gets too full, I can just empty the tube so that it doesnt back up into my intake. The tube also allows you to empty the oil into a proper disposal location.
There will always be 'some' oil accumulating in the sponge due to vapor alone, not to mention when you are at WOT and actually suck some droplets in there. Having the flutter valve there will only discharge oil all over your bike and the road. You can get clear tubing of different diameters at your local 'Homa-de-Po'. The plug can be anything from purpose built with a wire clamp, to an appropriately sized bolt. It would suck if it was spraying(leaking) oil and it blew all over your rear tire.
Boris
Alleyoop, with his configuration and where the flutter valve is, i think the issue is that it can't be 'full of oil' because it is continually leaking from the valve. we know that the charcoal fuel vapor filter is never supposed to get wet because it ceases to be effective, whereas the oil blow-by filter is supposed to catch the oil drops and divert them from the flow of air back to the intake. In any event, the solution of putting a standalone breather on the end of the hose, and above the source is a good alternative. The recommendation above is a good way to keep it stock.
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Post by borris120 on Sept 10, 2013 10:09:54 GMT -6
I am not sure what temperature your engines run after warm-up, mine sits somewhere between the bottom 1/4 and C at idle, and between 1/4 and 1/2 after WOT on a hot day.
On a cold day, such as the past two evenings here in SLC, it has been sitting a hair above the C mark even after WOT for almost an half hour. Outside temp was probably low 70's high 60's.
I would like to ride this bike on into the winter until I am contending with ice, however this won't be possible if the engine wont stay at an optimum temperature for combustion.
I don't think the thermostat is having issues opening, I believe that to be the issue.
Is anyone aware if you can order hotter thermostats like you can for automobile engines?
Otherwise, and possibly still, I will have to wire a switch in to the radiator fan circuit.
suggestions?
borris
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Post by borris120 on Sept 10, 2013 9:52:14 GMT -6
I saw a tutorial on changing a motorcycle tire, I believe on scooterdoc, does anyone know if scooter tires have a balance point, or a mark indicating the heaviest point of the tire to offset the valve? If there is such a mark, I doubt the two commercial tire businesses which do not stock or service motorcycle tires and merely helped me as a favor knew about how to properly orient the tire. In any event, I feel that the vibrations have taken a toll on the bearings, and that I should also look into replacing the bearings when I do the tires.
Are there any bearing manufacturers/distributors one should stay away from or gravitate towards?
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Post by borris120 on Sept 10, 2013 9:43:02 GMT -6
In SLC the best way to get somewhere is on the beltway or by one of the other two interstate highways. That way you can get anywhere in the valley in 15-20 minutes. I understand that whereas the bike 'can' go 80, that doesnt mean it was built to sustain 80 for long periods of time.
The local 'scooter' shop most people point to is primarily an ATV place. Their apparent philosophy is that scooters are gay, but if you want to throw money at them, they will take it and then take a dump on your bike and say something about how crappy your scooter is.
Tread very well could be cupping, the suspension does correspond to that scenario. Additionally each tire has gone flat once within the last two months. Although each was not ridden on long, each time I limped the bike to a service station. Might just need to can the lot. Vibration at 60 will be about 2 seconds on the front tire, then 2 seconds on the rear, rinse and repeat.
I watched another dealer purchase a tire from his supplier for $18, so he can mark it up to $45. So if I pay $45 for each tire, then go to the other place to have them balanced for another $45x2 = $180 before taxes.
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Post by borris120 on Sept 9, 2013 10:29:31 GMT -6
Hi, I was just curious about how many members cruise above 60 mph and have experienced vibrations originating at the wheels. My 250 is starting to get some shake coming from the wheels at around 50+ mph and one shop tells me that I should spend $45 per wheel to get them balanced, other shop says hogwash and that it is the bearings. No noticeable play in bearings when parked, but I know that it wouldnt take much at higher speeds to give me the shake I am getting. 'At the end of the day...' my mechanic tells me '... if you want to go 80, then buy a motorcycle.' Does anyone change/balance their own tires?
Boris
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Post by borris120 on Sept 7, 2013 17:18:35 GMT -6
Guys,
I have not had my 244 motor open yet, when one accesses the stator via the side cover, does the oil need to be drained? Are new gaskets needed to replace the side cover? It does seem like in the picture above, that a liquid gasket was used.
I have had some of the same complaints. The bike has been a little hard to start since I've had it, if I can get it to pop on the first or second rotation, and keep the throttle turned, I can keep it alive until it warms up. If it dies, same goes. I have spent several minutes getting it restarted following a stall at a stoplight. Recently I did as mentioned above, the idle screw was over 3.5 turns out. Now I am sitting around 2.25-2.5 I only turned it down until I started feeling resistance and could hear the spring tightening. As before, the idle screw is close to max, but it starts right up instead of minutes of cranking. Seemed as if it was running very rich before, smelled lots of gas at both WOT and idle.
Sorry to be so long winded, but I also hooked up a voltage gauge with alligator clips, and noticed that the most charge I was receiving was 12.25v with the fan off.
All that to say, before fixed, did your engine run rich - smelling like gas all of the time? Were you losing charge on your battery all of the time? I hope this is the problem so I can fix it and be done, but want some confirmation before I start cracking my engine open.
Boris
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