Oil Pump Mod By royldoc (Read 2,050 times)

[royldoc]

I'm going to do an experiment to see if I can get more oil flow out of an oil pump that uses a 22 tooth drive gear and a 47 tooth driven gear, as it is the oil pump turns at a ratio of 2.1363:1 I am going to try to use a drive gear of 16 teeth and a driven gear of 33 teeth. This will turn the pump at a ratio of 2.0625:1. The difference isn't a lot but it should help with oil flow. I am going to try to press the shaft out of the 47 tooth gear. These gears are made with the steel hub and shaft molded into the plastic. It may not be possible to press out if the shaft and hub are one piece. If this is the case it will destroy the plastic gear and i will turn the hub down even with the shaft on a lathe. I will next drill the center of the 33 tooth gear so that the shaft from the 47 tooth gear will press into it. I will do this on a mill as the hole in the center is not round, but has two flat sides. A regular drill may wander and make the hole to large for the shaft to be a tight fit, or it may end up out of center. Then I need to make a test rig to mount the pumps to so I can test the flow rates and pressure of the pumps. I bought extra gears and pumps Just to try this.

Roy

[cdoublejj]

Jul 28, 2013 0:02:42 GMT -6 royldoc said:

I'm going to do an experiment to see if I can get more oil flow out of an oil pump

You're talking my language. If you succeed I think i'll reconsider an oil cooling mod. I'm all about these kinds of mods. I can make more power all day long but, making more power while being more reliable or cooler is another story.

EDIT: if the plastic gear ends up being a problem would it be possible to have one 3D printed?

[royldoc]

Well I tried to press the shaft out of the 47 tooth gear and found out that the hub imbedded in the gear is part of the shaft. When I tried to press it out it tore the plastic out of the gear and broke the hub off of the shaft. I will put the shaft in a lathe and turn down the broken hub flush with the shaft. I'm not sure about the gear staying on the shaft after I press 33 tooth gear onto the shaft though. I may just have the machine shop make a one piece gear and shaft. It may be pricey though. I'm going to stop at the machine shop monday and talk to the owner.

Roy

[cdoublejj]

if all else fails I saw this today, feels a bit ghetto but, if done well might not be tooo bad.

www.mbe-motorsports.com/catalog/product_info.php/cPath/19_106_2/products_id/328?osCsid=0f00dc9b6vdgphqumhhij3tql3

[royldoc]

I took the pumps and gears to a machine shop today and talked to the owner. I let him know that I would like the shaft that I pressed out of one gear and broke the hub off turned down to press into the 33 tooth gear with the center hub bored out for a press fit. He tested the pump shafts and said they are some pretty hard metal and it would be hard to turn down. he suggested to just make a new shaft. and bore the gear to fit. The price he quoted was $120-$150 dollars. It is kinda steep just to mod a $40 dollar pump and gear. but I went ahead and told him to do it. We also discussed the potential for the gear to slip on the shaft as the steel hub in the center of the gear is pretty thin and there will only be about .002 of an inch press tolerance. If it don't work I will look at making a one piece gear and shaft. but it will be rather high priced. I may even invest in a small lathe and mill. I have access to a lathe a work but not a mill.

Roy

[royldoc]

Aug 4, 2013 18:39:09 GMT -6 cdoublejj said:

if all else fails I saw this today, feels a bit ghetto but, if done well might not be tooo bad.

www.mbe-motorsports.com/catalog/product_info.php/cPath/19_106_2/products_id/328?osCsid=0f00dc9b6vdgphqumhhij3tql3

The charging system on these fiddy engines is barley enough. I am already pushing it to the limit with the electric fuel pump for the E.F.I. system. also I would need to drill and tap holes for fittings and oil lines. Some thing I really don't want to do. There is more room for error and potential for oil leaks. These engines don't hold much oil and any leak, if not detected early could be a disaster.

Roy

[cdoublejj]

well i wondering about those like me who have carburetor maybe our charging systems could handle the oil pump put in series with the oil cooler bolted up?

have you looked in to 3d printing? 3d printers print plastic parts in 3 dimension, using high grade plastics. you could make the shaft, round with 2 flat spots and have a gear printed up to fit.

[royldoc]

I hadn't thought about 3-d printing for this project, but I have looked at 3-d printers for other projects. I can purchase a good small mill and a lathe for about the same cost as a good 3-d printer. With mills and lathes there is no software or programing needed unless I decided to convert them to cnc.

The machine shop called and said they may be able to use the original shaft, so it may not cost as much as originally quoted. I will see when they get done.

Roy

[cdoublejj]

just like machine shops there are companies that do the 3-d printing for you, you tell them what you want and maybe some measurements and stuff... damn you live in Missouri too, i was about too say while you can do it over the inet and mail the parts i'd think there is better chance of being able to see them in person if you live in a big city.

[royldoc]

I stopped and picked up the parts from the machine shop today. I now have the 33 tooth gear with a shaft from a 47 tooth gear pressed in it. Now I gotta get busy making a testing device so I can test flow rates and pressure of the different pumps at given rpms

Roy

[cdoublejj]

NICE!!!

[petrol42]

Too bad you didn't have a 150cc or you could've just got one of these.

www.drowsports.com/product/786/Engine/Crankshaft_Kit/KOSO_GY6_Kymco_Super_High_Flow_Oil_Pump

[cdoublejj]

any progress on making a test bed?

[cdoublejj]

bump

[cdoublejj]

bump