Clinician
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Post by petrol42 on Aug 18, 2013 1:08:05 GMT -6
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Post by petrol42 on Sept 24, 2012 12:32:29 GMT -6
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Post by petrol42 on Sept 24, 2012 11:16:58 GMT -6
I took a 65 mile ride yesterday for fun and to test out the mod I made to my clutch bell where I cut some slots into it.
The weather averaged 95 degrees and my scooter held up well without any problems.
In the description in the youtube vids towards the bottom is where I have all my listed mods I have on my scooter for this ride.
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Post by petrol42 on Sept 21, 2012 9:20:56 GMT -6
You probably will lose some top speed using heavier weights.
If you're going 60mph @ 9000 RPMs, most likely your variator is at the highest position it could go. This means you're getting to 60mph thru your engine's RPMs and not thru the CVT "gear ratios".
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Post by petrol42 on Sept 21, 2012 9:11:24 GMT -6
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Post by petrol42 on Sept 20, 2012 18:18:19 GMT -6
How do you perform said gear up? Is it something that is easy to do? I've only swapped them out once but I have a feeling that if I wanted to do another swap, it's going to take me a while to get that big gear off the shaft. But I'm happy with what I got now. It's working great for me. Now I'm itching for a BBK!
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Post by petrol42 on Sept 20, 2012 18:17:03 GMT -6
Very Nice Petrol42, And don't you just love the Low Rpms and the scoot is moving out smartly. I got 16/37 gears in now but I will be putting in 18/36 gears to even cruise around at even lower rpms. But that is all you want out of a good running scoot to be able to keep up with traffic with some left over. Because we all know if the speed limit says 40-45 the traffic on long stretchs of road are doing 50-60 mph. Nice Vid and thanks for proving that a nice gear up will improve your top speed without having to spend hundreds of dollars. Alleyoop I appreciate the kind words. Thank you very much! I almost got the 18/36 gears but am happy that I chose the 17/37. Beware though that the only place I found these high of a gear ratios were on ebay from someone named autotech335, or something like that. The big gear I got from him wouldn't slide onto the shaft like the stock one does. I had to carefully grind inbetween the teeth a little to try to get them to fit. I managed to slide them on 3/4 of the way but I had to tap it in the rest of the way with a hammer and punch. But upgearing is the way to go. All these scoots come with the same gear ratio regardless of tire size so there are some gains to be made.
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Post by petrol42 on Sept 19, 2012 17:14:38 GMT -6
Hey everyone, I made a video not too long ago showing how my 150cc with some mods does in traffic.
I hope you guys like it and I have another one I'm uploading now that shows how my scoot does in traffic with a 17/37 final gear swap. I'll link to it when it gets uploaded.
These vids give you an idea of how a GY6 will hold up in traffic with some mods.
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Post by petrol42 on Aug 3, 2012 3:22:37 GMT -6
Another thing you can try is pop the valve cover on and start it up the way you have it now. The engine should start even if the timing chain is off a tooth.
The first thing to look for at this point is to see if your engine starts up right away or not.
After start-up, get your engine hot while its on its center stand and after its hot, rev your engine high.
If there aren't any backfires or hesitation, then your timing is ok. If there is backfiring at full throttle or close to full throttle, turn the engine off and go have a beer at this point so you could let the engine cool down. Then pop off the valve cover, chain tensioner and camshaft holder and move the gear up or down.
Then do the above steps again.
This happened to me recently where I was off 1 tooth on the Cam and my engine would backfire at the intake during full throttle.
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Post by petrol42 on Jul 18, 2012 21:16:45 GMT -6
Nice, thanks for the reply!
I hope this works for me.
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Oil Leak
by: petrol42 - Jul 18, 2012 14:07:53 GMT -6
Post by petrol42 on Jul 18, 2012 14:07:53 GMT -6
I had the same problem as you. It would drive me nuts because no matter what I did, the oil leak would mysteriously reappear. It wasn't until I decided to rebuild my top end that I discovered the crack on the side of the cylinder head. The worse part was that I didn't discover the problem until I had my engine all put back together because I only replaced the cylinder jug and piston at first. I tried to put some JB weld on the outside of the engine where the crack was because I didn't know the extent of the crack inside the cylinder head. I put the engine back on my scoot but the oil leak reappeared so I ripped my motor apart again and the crack that's in the pic is what I discovered. I had to order another cylinder head and install that. I hope this isn't the case with your motor but I wouldn't rule a thing like this out since the symptoms that you described is the same condition I had before I discovered the crack. Attachments:
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Post by petrol42 on Jul 18, 2012 13:48:44 GMT -6
Well it was the air/fuel adjustment 3.5 turns out; (not sure if that indicates anything or not) did not change the gas, as one adjustment at one is the rule. That took the problem away and pulls up the hill like it was before. The plug was tan so I did not think it was running lean. I have three of these scooters and the list in the sig is not the problem one. The one you guys just fixed is bone stock. Actually now that you pointed that out I need to adjust that list as I am pretty sure I am back to the stock main and pilot jet due the richness it was giving me. On another note, if I changed the CDI and the Coil to the orange high output and the blue CDI on scrappy dog does anything else require adjustment due to this change or do you see any ill effects forthcoming? By the way thanks for quick and accurate advice. You have saved the day. I have the same problem so I was wondering if you turned your air/fuel screw in or out?
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