Clinician
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Post by turboblue on Sept 17, 2013 18:41:49 GMT -6
I took the air filter off to be able to get to the carb easier. Not sure where the rattleing is coming from. I thought that I set the valves right but Ill check again. The last time I done that the freaking bolt snapped off. Still needing to get it out. Luckly it was at the top and shouldn't cause any problems until I figure out how to get it out. If valve adjusting doesn't work what else could it be?
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Post by Alleyoop on Sept 18, 2013 18:24:45 GMT -6
I hope whatever snapped and broke off is NOT UNDER THE VALVE COVER?? You do NOT WANT THE MOTOR to run with something loose and or broke under the Valve cover.
As far as the AIR FILTER YOU MUST HAVE IT CONNECTED otherwise your fighting a loosing battle. You will not be able to get the right Fuel to Air Ratio mixture so your motor runs good and strong. Alleyoop
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Clinician
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Post by turboblue on Sept 19, 2013 17:16:01 GMT -6
The bolt that holds the cover on snapped. We tried to get it out but there's not anything really to grab on to with plyers. When I get it all adjusted Ill get it all fixed.
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Doc's Anything Goes
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Say no to scooter abuse
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Post by jct842 on Sept 19, 2013 17:23:25 GMT -6
Turbo go to your favorite auto parts store and get a magnet on a stick thing. Little magnet on like a radio ant. I think they even have some more flexable ones. All it takes is that bolt to get hit knocking a chuck of metal loose and it get into the oil pump....good by motor.
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Clinician
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Post by turboblue on Sept 19, 2013 19:11:36 GMT -6
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Post by Alleyoop on Sept 19, 2013 19:28:59 GMT -6
Ah, it is just the bolt that holds the valve cover. Well you could get a back drill bit and what you do is put the drill in reverse and it will unscrew it out for you.
Magnet will not work, John was thinking something inside in the valve cover was loose. So forget about any magnet.
The timing appears to be ok, little advanced but not all will align right on the "T" mark on the flywheel.
Now when putting on the Valve cover you just snuge the bolt on the valve cover don't crank to tighten the bolts down. The Valve cover has an O-RING around its edge to seal so oil does not sip out. This TIGHTENING also applies to anything on the motor. Remember the motor is Aluminum and if you really crank tightening any bolts the bolt will either snap or strip the threads inside the motor casing. Alleyoop
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Clinician
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Post by turboblue on Sept 20, 2013 18:28:21 GMT -6
Ok so I took it for a spin and I do have more power and not as much jerking motion. I adjusted the screw counter clockwise to lean it out and that almost got it. Still need just a tad more power. Should I try readjusting valves again or just leave it alone and adjust the carb some more?
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Post by Alleyoop on Sept 20, 2013 18:55:55 GMT -6
Here is how to adjust the CARB: Once you get the HIGHEST IDLE idling AFTER IT WARMS UP that is the best you can do from the CARB. www.scooterdoc.proboards.com/index.cgi?board=intake&action=display&thread=1499The only other thing is your weights in the VARIATOR to get you a little more rpms. You will have to weigh the ones in there, if you don't have a small scale that weighs in GRAMS take one of the weights to the post office and ask them to weigh it. Then you will know what gram weights you have in there and can work off that, either go heavier or lighter. Alleyoop
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Clinician
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Post by turboblue on Sept 29, 2013 19:43:46 GMT -6
Ok believe it or not I have figured out why I would have flat spots or what ever you might call it. The CDI that was new had a loose wire a blue one. Which was the one that was in charge of starting it. So I guess it wasn't making a solid connection. So I soldered it and good to go very little flat spot. It now goes around 50 in almost 1/2 mile. Probably will get a little more out of her if I had more road. I don't think the CDI that I bought was restricted but could be is there any wire that I can yank out to get rid of the rev limit? The one that I bought is pretty popular on ebay. Its blue and says high performance and cheap lol.
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