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Post by forcefed44 on Nov 11, 2013 19:58:28 GMT -6
I'm new on here and from basic checks to replacement parts, I am having a problem with my lighting.
first off, I just picked up a non running JMStar 150T longwheelbase with a damage motor from the PO, I swapped the complete GY6 assembly with a mildly modified (bored to 157cc) longcase GY6 motor.
What I seem to be having a problem is with the lighting going dim when idling almost to nil. when I rev it or when riding, the lighting is bright as can be. I also noticed that the Cyclops light doesn't shine nor does my tail light, but I do have all the other lighting functions.
Besides the swap, It has a brand new 12AH battery (stock is 7AH) larger exhaust LED light bulbs except the headlights.
It is charging slightly under 14V. Is there anywhere I should start to look at?
Chris
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Post by mikey34 on Nov 11, 2013 21:44:24 GMT -6
Could be the power wire going to both your headlight and tail light... Does your brake light work? Are they getting a good ground? Meter test all the power going to the lights, then on the center stand, and a friend to help, test with open throttle since they work going down the road... since your battery is getting 14volts to it while running, I doubt its your stator/magneto or R/R...
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Post by mikey34 on Nov 11, 2013 21:49:08 GMT -6
If it they work while its running, it very well could be a short in the wire, since your pushing more power through it, it could make connection... Something to think about... Something else to check would be, did the new GY6 motor you swapped to have a LIGHT CONTROL SWITCH, so you can turn your daytime and ALL lights except brake light, turn signals OFF. I have a couple scoots with and with out it. And I have had them have corrosion in them and do things like your describing as well.
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Clinician
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Post by forcefed44 on Nov 12, 2013 7:27:13 GMT -6
Thanks guys for the information, I will take a look into that. The brake light does work perfectly as the signals, and horn. As for the light control switch, I suppose that would be an additional wire off of the Magneto/stator? What I do notice is, I do have one wire that never was connected even before I bought it. It's a black wire with a ring terminal end that is along the R//S of the lower frame rail but it is a black wire; and coming from the car backround: I consider black being ground. I checked the wiring diagrams and it doesn't show as to where it goes.
I will snap a picture of it.
Chris
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Clinician
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Post by forcefed44 on Nov 13, 2013 13:36:13 GMT -6
So i traced the open wire and it was just an unconnected ground wire with a ring hoop. I tightened all the grounds and moved a few. I'll make new ground leads for the motor to the frame aswell as the starter to rail. Now my situation is regarding the actual lighting. I seem to have a problem where my headlights are blowing out. I checked the 4 pin rectifier mounted in the nose and replaced it and it blew the lights, I reinstalled the old unit and I only had High's. Today I rechecked the lights and they blew out again, all the while I still have no tail light (except for brake light) and no pilot mounted light.
Before tightening the ground bolt and moving the battery, I was getting close to 14V on the gauge and now I noticed that my volt meter is steady at 12V on the gauge.
Chris
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Post by Guitarman on Nov 13, 2013 14:47:18 GMT -6
I've had 2 china bikes now and I've found that black is not always a ground wire. I think whoever assembled the harness was color blind.
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Post by forcefed44 on Nov 13, 2013 14:51:10 GMT -6
Short of having to rewire the whole thing, I'm at a stand still.
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Post by Guitarman on Nov 13, 2013 14:58:29 GMT -6
Only thing I can think of at this point is to run a new wire for the light. Cut and seal the old one and put in a new one that you know what and where it's connected.
Do you have the wiring diagram for the bike? You might find in the library here.
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Post by forcefed44 on Nov 13, 2013 19:37:44 GMT -6
I'm going to go ahead and do that but first I have to recharge my new battery. Stupid float charger discharged it completely.
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Post by forcefed44 on Nov 14, 2013 16:57:54 GMT -6
So the no park lighting now becomes a no starting condition.
I have followed and traced the wiring as per the diagrams and checked for proper voltage. I am getting a pulsing to the CDI (green diode lights up when cranking) as well as trigger voltage but there is no spark at all to the coil. I replaced the following with new parts: performance coil and wire, iridium spark plug, performance CDI, starter solenoid, starter, Rectifier/regulator and freshly charged the battery and load tested 100%. Short of replacing the Stator and pickup, is there anything else I should look into?
Can the stator/pickup just go bad?
Chris
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Post by Guitarman on Nov 14, 2013 20:31:12 GMT -6
Get your meter and start looking for a short to ground. Also, do you have a starter relay?
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Clinician
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Post by forcefed44 on Nov 14, 2013 22:31:18 GMT -6
Get your meter and start looking for a short to ground. Also, do you have a starter relay? No starter relay just a solenoid in the circuit. I removed the kill switch on the side stand and rewired a few things. I made new grounds and cleaned up the existing contacts for the old ones. I will try to start it tomorrow..
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Post by Alleyoop on Nov 14, 2013 23:00:02 GMT -6
You can check the PICK-UP it should have a pulse of .05, also make sure the ground wire from the motor to the frame is good. Alleyoop
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Post by shop242 on Nov 15, 2013 17:58:33 GMT -6
Maybe wrong stator in the new motor .. Went thru somma that on a motor swap. My new motor came with a ac rectifier . ( was DC originally) . Long story short.. Old motor had 6 pole stator.. New Motor had 8 pole stator..and didnt work right on any of the electrics. wouldnt even charge the battery and blew bulbs at a rev..Had to take the old stator and flywheel and put in on the new motor.. That was my lil ordeal
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Post by tvnacman on Nov 15, 2013 19:09:11 GMT -6
Chriss , I will be around in the morning , let me know if you want to come .
John
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