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Post by czmdiver on Jul 9, 2018 19:02:45 GMT -6
Ok great on the pictures.
wow that rocker assy, is jacked, the studs are junk for sure and enjoying a base gasket leak.
I hope the metal around those studs is not drawn up preventing even with new studs and gasket to leak..
Time to take that top end down.
Good Luck!
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Post by czmdiver on Jul 9, 2018 13:30:10 GMT -6
Thanks guys for the help. So I found I'm also missing a bolt the holds the carb onto the engine.can I just grab one from the fastenal store that's the same size as the other one I do Have? This is great project and hope you post lots of pictures of the resurrection. Im once again going to warn of extreme caution on the advice above, Don't Do What He Do or Say to Do... If there is any concern in the Carb bolts vibrating loose there are many many way's we can combat that. Do NOT tighten as tight as you can, because we are deal ing with Aluminum and may need to take that carb off many times first may try simple Teflon Tape to the threads, or we can move on to Loctite ThreadLocker 242 blue, this is removable but would advise caution. We can even use the teflon tape with a dob of Blue, Gray or Black Permatex to the Head and it won't vibrate loose, If that Don't get it we can Safety Wire the darn thing. There is no design flaw its a Ring Dinger!! We can Delete a Oil injection in Anything if we Need too. the Reservoir Feeds the Oil Pump, I would strongly advise flushing out the reservoir then installing a inline filter like a fuel filter will do. I am Moderator on another Scooter Forum and will direct you there by pm, just a bunch of older Scoot heads with tons of experience, and some very factory connected.. I just not going to entertain Butcher Advice. Good Luck |
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Post by czmdiver on Jul 9, 2018 10:32:02 GMT -6
Do you mean he broke the lock nut off the Tappet Adjuster? yaaaaa mann get some pictures
The CVT Gear oil is in the Back by the rear Wheel, it can't come up front to the cylinder base. There is a crank Seal behind the Vari that may be leaking?
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Post by czmdiver on Jul 9, 2018 6:04:19 GMT -6
It just the Vent for the Gear case. They ALL have them, it gets connected to Nothing..
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Post by czmdiver on Jul 9, 2018 5:57:55 GMT -6
That is a Cylinder Stud he broke so I don't know how the two of you fixed that. before you fired her up.
With the Broke off Nut on the Rocker Stud you now the Base Gasket to the Cylinder that is now leaking. it ain tgunna be gear oil, its coming from the base by the pipe.
Cylinder Studs are junk on these scoots, for Any and every BBK install or similar replace the Studs with some Taida brand, there usually under $7.
Yup so now he must remove the entire top end and replace all his studs. If he broke One he has over torqued them all..
And don't got god sake run a hunk of Threaded Rod inlaced of the stud, there a guy on another board doing that right now, torquing Threaded Rod would be like trying to Torque a Rubber Band.
When you torque you are Stretching the stud it only has so much elasticity. then they won't hold a clamping surface no matter how much you tighten them, and Never tighten them more yo will draw up the metal around those studs on the base of the engine case and Never get a base gasket to seal.
Use Only a Inch pound torque wrench.
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Post by czmdiver on Jul 7, 2018 8:14:02 GMT -6
100 USD for a Geely is not a rip off, just saying. But the company went out of business just about 10 years ago. So most main parts are hard to find, but the mass majority of parts are universal over the internet. I still have my first scooter which is a 2003 geely fashion 2 stroke. You might get lucky like I did and end up with a chain driven scooter. *I would just drive that thing until it's dead. Mine is still alive, sat in the weather for two years, charged the battery and it started first try oddly.. That's odd yours dies not have the signature Geely motor writing on the back seat? My geely obtained a gas tank leak one day,heard a loud pop like explosion. Check out the gas tank, probably rust filled. Might not be getting correct fuel either. If it's a 2t, expect the bolts for the carb to vibrate out. Even a mechanic shop couldn't fix it. Just a 2t vibrating issue, also getting to the bolts is an arse.. Lastly if it's a 2t with the oil tank Reservoir, add a cap full to the gas tank.. Never trusted it. I was informed to pump the throttle every so often to help pump oil. As well after climbing hills, and during going down hills. Your worst scenario is the oil tank never pumped oil. Causing damage. But that should be it. The control arm wiring sucks on these bikes. Direct solder. Wrongful turn can break the solder joints. I will reply tomorrow much better, it's beyond my bedtime sorry. Nice find  Stinky, Warning on this guys advise, be extra careful and diligent on a Scooter board you are getting correct information. You shouldn't but if you think you need to check the Oil Injection Pump is working you can work its gear by hand once removed with some oil in the line and see it pump's. Also make sure you use Two Stroke Injector Oil, there are many very good brands. If you just want to plane Delete the Pump you can mix old school in the 5 gal can. Im sure you would be plenty safe with a good oil at 40:0-1. there are those Ratio-rite beaker for sale at most bike shops that makes pre-mixing easy Do Not Mix your Oil and Gas in the Scoots Tank. If you do enjoy the Pump Never Never Ever Ever Add More Oil to the Fuel tank, More Is Not Better, One Must understand when you Add More Oil your are Leaning out the Fuel/Air Mixture. You are flirting with a lean condition seizer now. Ive analyzed many piston failures professionally were the were they Seized there Two Stroke by Adding to much Oil. As example if my MX bike is Jetted for and running a 50:0-1 pre-mix and then grab a fuel can that is 20:-1 that bike is now Major Lean, Detonating and Running really Hot with More oil.. The Injection Pump is a constant running so "pumping" the throttle does nothing, back in the day going Down a long hill the bike can coast with little or no throttle in high gear she is running lean so the thing to do was to just feather the throttle some, and this was Only done on a Down hill. probably not needed. Same thing with a Four Stroke there is no reason to ever add oil to the gas, the More oil will Lean Out the Mix, She is now lean,hot and detonating. Now think tho the Four Stroke is running in a bathtub of Oil so she is much more forgiving to adding the extra oil causing a Piston Seizure. In a ll out racer like a dirt tracker she would melt down. We do some very cool things to Pistons to control the detonation from lifting the top ring off the cylinder. |
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Post by czmdiver on Jul 7, 2018 7:48:23 GMT -6
Nice Scoot, looks like a great father son project...
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Post by czmdiver on Jun 22, 2018 7:36:29 GMT -6
Sorry for the late reply, I had a lot going on during the time of the post and sadly forgot. Engine model number is: JN1P39QMB The belt the seller sent with the motor was a 723. Which apparently was the wrong belt, and ensured me there was no way he did that.. He says it's supposed to be a 729.. The bolt count is 9. I can measure pulley to pulley if you'd like? *If you are a vendor, there's a few things I would like to look into. Taller rims that are a little on the cheap side that as well tires won't be expensive to get. Future champion battery cover. I also had odd OEM mirrors that had red running lights. If I can get pictures to finally upload I will post those mirrors. He tried help you several times and you wouldnt answer any of his questions, then you started another thread for the Same problem.I'm sure like the others has given up on trying to help you, He has a web site to click on or you can call him, but your done trying to fit taller 12" or 13" wheels on a Fiddy. That new Motor is shipped complete from China to them, they shelve it and sell it complete as it came to them, the add or subtract no parts in house. |
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Post by czmdiver on Jun 20, 2018 15:28:05 GMT -6
Bump.
There is the vendor above trying to help you..
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Post by czmdiver on Jun 20, 2018 15:27:04 GMT -6
cyborg what could cause the pully to not be in line with each other? The clutch sticking out further than the varriator? While I'm fooling with this area, what's the best way to limit the rpms without limiting speeds? I'd go with a gear set, but I can't find anyone with a hydraulic press. Take and post some pictures so we can see whats going on.. |
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Post by czmdiver on Jun 20, 2018 5:54:24 GMT -6
Seems to be fixed, but the problem is still partially there. If it's a clear day tomorrow I will drive it hard and just break down somewhere if I do. It does the twist at the top around 6,000 slightly. Then the same on let off but at the bottom. The belt is practically driving off the varriator a little. Is this bad? I fear the belt stretching. Your dealing with like 3.5 Horsepower at 7,000rpm You are Not stretching or Slipping the belt.. |
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Post by czmdiver on Jun 19, 2018 6:12:33 GMT -6
No, you have found the belt turning thats all, The Problem is what is causing the Belt to turn, they just don't do that on there own something is causing this.
And you were just informed you have been using the wrong belt so I don't see how you got the correct one on so fast and already having problems with it.
If the Belt is Already Junk it will turn thats about it.
And without Pictures its darn near impossible to help from this point, its just something that we nee to put a bunch of Eyeballs on..
Good Luck
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Post by czmdiver on Jun 18, 2018 8:49:54 GMT -6
My next tackle is my oil pump I guess.. Breaking Belts has nothing to do with your oil pump. The Oil Pump is inside the engine and if it failed you would have seized your motor, Even heat cause from a failed oil pump will never be able to get the belt hot enough to break one. The Cam chain is also inside the engine, hacking some hole in the engine of the sake of the chain do some kind of cooling is just plain silly. you"ll fling all your engine oil out in short order and again the cam chain has nothing to do with breaking belts. Your engine won't ve able to run hot enough to transfer that much heat and break belts. Parts for Scooters won't be able to help you, you had to either swap over your old assembly or buy a complete new one and install it. in the past you mention you had 38,000 on the scoot? so you swapped over the complete assy that had 38,000 miles on it? and I can't stress again posting up some pictures there is not vey much we can do with descriptions. The other thing is with that new engine there is only one belt that fits it and you were jackin all over the place with belt width's and lengths so who knows what belt you are running and if its correct.. Your issue is with the CVT assembly indies that cover so stay were the problem is. |
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Post by czmdiver on Jun 16, 2018 17:41:44 GMT -6
I spent more years than I want to remember in the Power Equipment field and worked with Lots of Belts, Heat is the Enemy of the Belt. You can buy these very accurate Laser temp gauges most everywhere now for under $30. No Guessing if something is genuinely running Hot or Cold.. I do the Anklebiter thing..   |
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Post by czmdiver on Jun 16, 2018 17:39:23 GMT -6
I'm stuck at work and can't respond like I really want to sadly.. I want to ask a question that'll make you say  .. Could someone cut open a hole inside of the CVT area so the chain could act as a fan? It's a dumb but logical question.. What Chain? |
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.. Could someone cut open a hole inside of the CVT area so the chain could act as a fan?