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Lets do this in proper order and one step at a time for best results.
Do the Compression test First before attempting to replace any gaskets, be crazy to take the top of the motor apart then put it back together to then check compression.
You don't want to go through all that work to find out the Motor is Clapped out in the end and you wasted your time and money.
Make sure you use the Compression gauge correctly or you will get a False reading..
Im darn near sure most Auto Part chain stores have a compression tester to use, they could range in price from $25 to more than $60. Try Harbor Freight tools, You will also need feeler gauges and a torque wrench to do anything on your Scoot.

I again advise to go slow and caution, you state you know nothing of motors and were afraid at the Valve adjustment, there No shame in that, some may just not ever have the aptitude for theses things and thats fine.
There are very good tutorials on this board and several on you tube demonstrating correct procedure.I would strongly advise to spend allot of time watching them.
And No there is no Mechanic in a can that would seal some weeping gaskets.
                      Good Luck..

Well then Ill help ya out.
First I'm not here to impress or put down anyone, I very much enjoy helping in my area's of expertise,and expertise I have.
formely schooled, dues paid as a technician from small engine thru gas and Diesel, Perkins and IH were my specialties along with both Eaton and Vickers Hydraulics Motors and Pumps, Kart champ, drag race, mx, blah, blah, blah
Not much of a living being a grease monkey so its were it was at was a Manufacture in Motorsports.
A very high end piston company, product development, field engineering, national race support.
You see those guys at the races in the garages standing around the car, bike, boat, whatever with those cool shirts on? Im one of those guys,
I travel providing both technical and sales seminars of my product to various distributors sales teams. I teach it.
When you pick up the installation instructions, mostly likely I wrote those are had a part in those, so ya I write the Book.
I could spend weeks on just one products to improve ring seal. I eat sleep and breath, rings types, Cylinder compositions, many different turned shapes of the piston, Ring land flatness,radial depth blah, blah again.
So too adding any type of oil to the gas for any reason. here are the facts.

Weither its a 09 Don Deere or your late model Scoot adding oil of any kind to your fuel will Guarantee a percentage of Cylinder Glaze, that leads to a percentage of Ring Seal loss, yes it will start and run ok but will never be what It could be if you hadn't done that, the only cure is to remove the Cylinder and Brake the Glaze with a Nylon Flex Brush Hone and Install new Rings.

Here is something else even worse that you are doing doing oil to gas on a Fixed Jet carb, and this is Beginner entrance exam for beginner small engine class Groups "A" Room #101, When you add that oil you have now replaced Fuel with oil and Leaned out you Mixture, She will run Hot and on the verge of engine killing Detonation by doing so.
You Spark plug will Not show you this because it is showing the Oil you have in your gas.
Try going from 50:0-1 to 20:0-1 in a Unforgiving Two Stroke were that Crank is Not running in a bath of oil, She will Seize the Piston in short order by Adding more Oil to the Fixed jet carb, and they bounce around dumbfounded of how with More oil did it Seize. cuz ya replaced Fuel with oil.
The whole idea of More and thicker oil for Break in or whatever is severely outdated and flawed, even back in the day with a proper finish on the cylinder, just the wrong direction to go.
Nothing short of Barnyard Barbarizim..
If anyone worked for me and did or advocated such thing they would be fired on the spot as they haven't enough smarts to work on a Bicycle.
Such practices should stop and surely not be taught again to the unknowing..
Take this with a grain of salt and chalk it up to ya learned something really valuable and laugh off what gramps taught.

Slow down some.
First go get some Simple Green or Gunk and De-Grease the entire engine before taking anything apart.
Next go to the auto parts store and most will have tools to use for free and get a Compression tester to confirm your Motor is Clapped out.
To my knowledge you still haven't performed a Valve Lash check or adjustment, correct?
Really need to conquer simple tune up type work with success like your jetting and valve adjustments before your jumping into tearing the engine apart to install a BBK. 

If you do most likely you will end up with something that will Not run at all, many because of complete lack of experience miss the most basic of problems to overcome.
           Good luck.

HOLLY SNIT, Who the Heck told you to do such a thing??

I most likely will never understand why anyone deals with these Thieves and Scammers who Flunked Kindergarten math and profit on the ignorance of others. 
How in the heck is this Thief coming up with "100cc kit"?
  .7854 X Bore X Bore X Stroke = CC's
  .7854 X 50 X 50 X 41.4 = 81.288 CC's For Real Displacement.

 And whats with the 64mm Valves? states Head Assy with 64mm Valves then states18mm Intake then 16mm Exh then 64mm Valves Something or other, what the heck is that supposed to be? is this Combustion chamber Dia.? or ?

Also curious why are you asking what the Piston and Head Weights? Im not understanding...

Ya a whole bunch.
Is the Pref, carb the same size as was on there or a bigger carb or? like in "mm" size.
Your going to need to look at the Jet #'s on the original carb compared to the new Perf Carb
Also you mentioned no jetting changes to the new Perf carb, Looks like with all the changes you made your going have to do some minor jetting/tuning.
Should be that big a deal to work thru.
Pop the fuel bowl off the original and see were your wert at and go from there.
             good Luck