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Post by czmdiver on Nov 15, 2017 14:22:01 GMT -6
You did mention in another thread the Flywheel has No Magnetism correct?
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Post by czmdiver on Nov 3, 2017 3:33:36 GMT -6
More details please.
"Cuts out" the engine dies as in its off?
At what throttle position does this normally happen?
How many miles on her?
What tune up type maintenance have you done?
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Post by czmdiver on Nov 1, 2017 9:00:37 GMT -6
What exactly is the Oil you are using?
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Post by czmdiver on Oct 31, 2017 16:58:24 GMT -6
Man that sucks
Im glad Danmartin at Martinmopeds educated me/us on the supplying real quality Scooter Electrical components, I won't buy Scoot electric from anyone else.
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Faster
by: czmdiver - Oct 15, 2017 19:39:21 GMT -6
Post by czmdiver on Oct 15, 2017 19:39:21 GMT -6
Nice write up
Yowie that JE boat anchor NASCAR cup piston from Runt Pittman of Morgan McClure is some old product.
I wrote allot of Piston orders for Morgan McClure.
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Power loss
by: czmdiver - Oct 9, 2017 8:42:15 GMT -6
Post by czmdiver on Oct 9, 2017 8:42:15 GMT -6
Larger displacement pushed the fat to limits of final drive. 44mm just wasn't enough to to get the fat past the threshold of fat + wind resistance Ill help ya out with this Lets say for instance the Gy-6 49cc make peak hp about 2.95 at 7,500 rpm I don't care if you have 3 or 3,000 hp the scooter will still top out at the same MPH at 7,500 rpm, the more hp will only get you to the same mph just Faster. In the wind or up a hill will drag the motor's rpm's down and the mph will reflect the same. Your Gearing is set along with your tire diameter. 3,000rwhp will not turn the Wheel faster at the fixed 7,500 rpm Its simple math. You must either change the gearing or Increase the rpm limit to turn the Wheel faster. All the Cams on the market peak out a a Tater digger low rpm of around 7,500 then theres a valve Spring issue so moving in the direction of increasing the rpm is not the direction to go.. |
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Post by czmdiver on Oct 8, 2017 13:47:13 GMT -6
I finally took the rest of my pair canister off, it does nothing, vacuum or no vacuum, air goes right through it, you can stick a filter directly on the end of the hose going to the engine, the big hose, and it will function exactly the same. the canister with it's vacuum control, appears to be for appearance only, it does nothing useful except maybe filter the air. There is no logical reason for that hose to be shut off when the engine isn't running, even if it actually worked Oh No it did something, it made someone feel good that they added a cost to your Scooter in a mindless attempt to keep air cleaner and as always in the end accomplished Nothing other than lightening your wallet. |
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Post by czmdiver on Oct 8, 2017 12:20:06 GMT -6
Thank you all for your help. Yes I will take better care with the warm ups in future. I was running a #90 main jet. Plug is oily, while its apart I fitted an #80 and have an #85 on order. I will do a plug chop when its up and going. Is there a simple way of telling if there is a problem with the crank seal? Also while its apart I will test the oil pump is working properly. With the 80 kit I am running a combo of oil pump and premix. I think oil is not a problem as I am getting some blue smoke out of the pipe. Darn hate when my worst hunch is true sometimes. I had tell tale signs of the Piston pictures that made me suspicious of what you have going on with the Oil. Oil is the problem, You have a Fixed Jet carb when you added that extra Oil to the gas you have now replaced Gas with Oil and have leaned the Motor put, all that black stuff is more Coking from the Heat and extra oil not Blow By. Boom! She Seized... I've seen this so many times.. When you would have done a throttle chop the Plug will read the extra oil you have added and Not the true reading of lean or fat. it will show you a good to go and your dangerously lean.. Never ever do this, More is Not better. you will even run into detonation issues adding oil to two or four stroke gas. Im big on higher end injection or pre-mix oils for Two stroke's I thank you for the honesty and details,some withhold some things they do and we can env get to the bottom of what is truly causing there failures. |
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Post by czmdiver on Oct 8, 2017 12:04:42 GMT -6
Are we allowed to run a can of restore in these little engines? So restore helps bring back compression on scored engines, etc etc. The stuff actually works! www.restoreusa.com/index.phpNo sir, this or any other product will never Repair Damaged Components like what you see in his pictures. When a Piston Scuff's, Stick's, Seizes that material has become Liquid, and now the Heat Treat has now been taken out of the Piston, Tis Butter... The other thong that happens to that piston is what in the industry call Skirt Crush or Skirt Collapse, the Piston has also now lost its size, so if you had .002 piston to wall you have more than .005 and its all over. No mechanic in a can is going to bring back the size of the Overheated now Butter Piston.. The Rings are Springs, Now overheated you will have collapsed them and lost significant ring seal, this can be clearly seen laying the overheated ring with a new ring, there done.. No product is going to put the Heat treat back in a Piston or Re-Spring and Collapsed Ring...... There may be a place for that crap in a old clapped out Farm-All or Don Deere to get the Field Plowed but I get get the same thing done with adding some Gear Lube to my Don Deere crank case... |
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Post by czmdiver on Oct 8, 2017 11:52:48 GMT -6
Thank you all for your help. Yes I will take better care with the warm ups in future. I was running a #90 main jet. Plug is oily, while its apart I fitted an #80 and have an #85 on order. I will do a plug chop when its up and going. Is there a simple way of telling if there is a problem with the crank seal? Also while its apart I will test the oil pump is working properly. With the 80 kit I am running a combo of oil pump and premix. I think oil is not a problem as I am getting some blue smoke out of the pipe. Darn hate when my worst hunch is true sometimes. I had tell tale signs of the Piston pictures that made me suspicious of what you have going on with the Oil. Oil is the problem, You have a Fixed Jet carb when you added that extra Oil to the gas you have now replaced Gas with Oil and have leaned the Motor put, all that black stuff is more Coking from the Heat and extra oil not Blow By. Boom! She Seized... I've seen this so many times.. When you would have done a throttle chop the Plug will read the extra oil you have added and Not the true reading of lean or fat. it will show you a good to go and your dangerously lean.. Never ever do this, More is Not better. you will even run into detonation issues adding oil to two or four stroke gas. Im big on higher end injection or pre-mix oils for Two stroke's |
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Post by czmdiver on Oct 8, 2017 6:50:42 GMT -6
That other Bung on the bottom of the Fuel bowl is just another type of drain used in another application, Nothing to do there.
In Picture #2 the Screw you see on the side of the carb is a Mixture Screw, this can be adjusted to clear up the surging etc.
look up the tutorilas here for Mixture Screw instruction.
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Post by czmdiver on Oct 8, 2017 6:41:46 GMT -6
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Post by czmdiver on Oct 6, 2017 18:48:01 GMT -6
Ok cool
Picture #1 the canister, leave it alone for the right now.
Picture #2 That is a Drain Hose from the Fuel Bowl, the Screw you see opened will drain the Fuel from the Bowl down that hose, Thats all it is is a drain hose and you need to do nothing and it doesn't even need to be there.
The Fuel Bowl Drain screws corrode so if you don't have to mess with it don't, you will just jack up the Screw Slot.
Picture #3 is the Valve/Rocker Cover Crank Case ventilation, To keep it simple at speed the crank case builds pressure and these Vents keeping the engine from Spewing Oil out of every seal etc. From the Valve cover there can be a slight mist of oil coming from it so at one time it was somehow connected tooth canister to reintroduce that mist in the engine to be used.
You Don't need to do anything to that Valve cover hose other that I recommend it be routed up high or some mount up high and turn into a oil catch can.
I really don't see that you need to do anything, I wouldn't recommend undoing what has been done unless its causing some problem.
Hope this helped
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Post by czmdiver on Oct 6, 2017 9:04:04 GMT -6
I should also add if the old or new Cylinder is Cast Iron go even slower on the Warm up.
Cast Iron holds much more heat compared too Aluminum, Think, the Best Fry pan is cast Iron because it Holds so much heat, the Worst is a Aluminum because it dissipates heat.
Onto your fresh top end, go slow on the initial warm up with that Cast iron Cylinder.
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Post by czmdiver on Oct 6, 2017 8:29:55 GMT -6
Sounds like the Vacuum lines have been eliminated. ?
You do not need all those lines and emissions for the Scooter to run properly.
Please take and post some pictures so I can see what you have going on..
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