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Post by Cruiser on Jul 12, 2010 20:15:26 GMT -6
Well, I might just be done fooling around with the charging system on my YY250T. Here's a rundown of my messin' around: 1. Replaced all R/R output and ground wires with 12 guage wire. 2. Replaced OEM radiator fan with a more efficient fan. 2 amp savings. 3. Upgraded to LED bulbs. 4. Selected the best of my 3 R/R's and mounted a 80mm cooling fan on it. Ended up using the original R/R.  5. Replaced blocking diode with a relay which works with the key. 6. Replaced OEM battery with 12ah 230cca AGM. 7. Installed a dash mounted LED digital volt meter to see how everything's working. Now charging is at a 13.6 volt minimum @ 4000rpm with both HID 35 watt headlights on, radiator fan on, and of course electric fuel pump on. With headlights off, it will run up to about 14.7 volts. Have to go on a long road trip to see if the R/R overheats although it seemed to run cool while I did my prelim testing. I'm happy with the apparent ability to really regulate the charging voltage within the design limits as stated in the shop manuals. It will be interesting to see how things hold up.  |
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Post by Cruiser on Jul 10, 2010 19:45:03 GMT -6
Have to agree with you, Todd. 60 volts AC is the usual output for a good stator.
I just finished installing the Silicone intakes fan. I used the new fan by shaving about 1/8 inch from the end of the blades. The reason I went through this trouble is because I measured a difference of .2 amps between using this fan blade and the the straight blade OEM one. The new fan pulls 3.2 to 3.3 amps while my OEM used about 5.2 amps. They both seem to move the same amount of air so even if the new one runs like the old one, you should still have a good power savings. Just finished the relay install which controls the charging circuit and my electric fuel pump. This also allows me to get rid of the blocking diode. I also bought a new 12 ah, 230 cca battery to replace the OEM battery. A quick check of the R/R before doing all this showed an output of 14 to 15 volts. Hope to start up the scoot and make some measurements tomorrow.
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Post by Cruiser on Jul 9, 2010 11:33:28 GMT -6
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Post by Cruiser on Jul 8, 2010 22:31:03 GMT -6
This is not an easy nut to crack. The problem I have found is a large drop between the regulator output and the battery. I have measured a 1.5 volt difference between the two points. The blocking diode accounts for about .7 volts while wiring and connector losses account for .8 volts. We are talking about a distance of less than 2 feet. I'm in the process of running 12 guage wire for the output of the regulator. I'm also replacing the blocking diode with a relay which activates only when the engine is running. This relay will also serve double duty as I will use it to activate my electric fuel pump also. I am also replacing the OEM fan which in my case uses about 5 amps with the 3 amp model. On my scoot, it looks like the fan motor can be interchanged on to the OEM shroud. It looks like the YY250T uses 2 different types of cooling fans - the 3 legged style with no real shroud and the full shroud pancake style like mine. Right now the scoot is naked with almost no plastic on it so I'm anxious to see how things will turn out when everything is back together.
The CfMoto regulator I wrote about earlier should put out the same as the Honda Helix unit (about 15 amps) at around $42 msrp according to the CfMoto website. The problem is no one seems to have them. I have been talking with Danny's Scooter Shop in Avon, MA (30 miles away) who happens to be a CfMoto dealer and he cannot find any regulators for the 250cc scoots. One positive note is that he is more than happy to work on any Chinese scoots. I might look him up for my next scoot.
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Post by Cruiser on Jul 7, 2010 17:51:45 GMT -6
Regular "wet cell" batteries have a vent on one end. If the battery is tilted toward the vent tube end, then acid can leak out. These batteries are supposed to be installed in a level compartment with a plastic tube which vents the vapors and liquid droplets to a safe place. A lot of the 250cc scoots have tilted battery compartments and it is important to use AGM (sealed) batteries to avoid any acid spilling.
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Post by Cruiser on Jul 6, 2010 20:08:58 GMT -6
Todd,
It's easy to isolate the enricher from the charging circuit by pulling the bullet connector which is branching off the stator wire. I remember seeing that 7 amp regulator and wondering what they where using it on. The Honda RR's are ridiculously overpriced. I checked out the CfMoto website and checked the RR's for the 250cc Fashion and the V3 which are the same. Using the dealer locater, my local dealer has them in stock for a MSRP of $40. Part number = CF250T-463000. I might give him a call to see if he knows the power ratings on this unit.
UPDATE: The local dealer does not have any in stock. The part number has changed along with the price in the past 24 hours. It appears the dealer links are a work in progress by CfMoto and the info is not 100% accurate. The dealer said he would check on local availability of regulators for me. Have to call him back.
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Post by Cruiser on Jul 6, 2010 19:10:22 GMT -6
Good luck, Todd. I noticed that the regulator you mentioned is a 5 wire and I'm guessing that the black/white wire is a sensor or feedback wire to let the regulator know how much to charge the battery. This would mean that the ground is through the case/heatsink? You did mention about drawing over 17 amps from the regulator given the electrical load of the scoot. This leads to another possible problem since the wires in the scoot are not rated for that much current. I noticed my regulator puts out 14.2 volts at the regulator which ends up being 12.7 volts at the battery. The only thing in the circuit besides the wires is the blocking diode which should drop no more than .7 volts. In my case, I'm loosing .8 volts in the wiring. If I can get a break from the heat, I will replace the blocking diode with a relay and rewire with 12 guage wire. Replacing the fan is also on the list. Have you been able to test out the computer fan setup yet?
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Post by Cruiser on Jul 3, 2010 10:29:24 GMT -6
Nice work, Todd. So I guess the Silicone intakes fan was the same size as the OEM? I already installed an 80mm fan on my regulator.  I drilled 4 small holes in the heatsink fins and ran the black fan wire to the regulator green and the red fan wire to the regulator black. The regulator to the left is the smaller (I think used mainly for 150cc) unit that works with our scoots. You can actually fit the 80mm fan on that too if necessary. |
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Post by Cruiser on Jul 2, 2010 22:39:42 GMT -6
That's the one that Big Guy pointed to and the one I ordered. Most of the ones I see listed don't tell the measurements. I found this one that SAYS it's specifically for the roketa 250B but I'm a little leery without specific measurements. I put it back together and it's still not charging with the new regulator, so I'm 100% sure the stator is bad. <sigh> I found that parts for chinese scooters DOES have the right one so I'm hoping that they will swap me out as they're the same price: www.partsforchinesescooters.com/asp/gmi/?choice=showCategory&category=1394&classid=13Hey Roy, the first stator you referenced above is definitely not for your scoot if it fits the CfMoto V3/V5 which is in in the compatibility listing in the description. 66 |
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Post by Cruiser on Jul 1, 2010 21:15:17 GMT -6
And you will still be using less power than just the OEM fan. If this doesn't cure the cooling problem, I don't know what will. Good luck.
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Post by Cruiser on Jul 1, 2010 17:07:53 GMT -6
Hi Todd, Just got this fan today. Thanks for the link. Very fast shipping! I bench tested it and sure enough - 3 amps. ;D It seemed to move at least as much air as the OEM fan. I think the motor/fan unit is a direct replacement for the scoot unit. Just unbolt the blade and take out 2 screws on the motor and remount on the scoot shroud. |
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Post by Cruiser on Jun 29, 2010 22:01:21 GMT -6
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Post by Cruiser on Jun 25, 2010 20:21:07 GMT -6
I think the brass fitting inline with hoses is acting like a heat sink and absorbing the heat from the hot gases instead of letting it through. The OEM hoses and fittings act as insulators which will allow the hot gasses to pass through. Just my $.02.
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YY250T Fan
by: Cruiser - Jun 25, 2010 20:10:23 GMT -6
Post by Cruiser on Jun 25, 2010 20:10:23 GMT -6
I believe the 10 to 11 inch dimension might be the max for a replacement. The three 80 mm and two 120 mm setup might work. I think using four 120 mm fans in a square setup might be the easiest way to go even if you have to buy a fan.
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YY250T Fan
by: Cruiser - Jun 24, 2010 21:29:02 GMT -6
Post by Cruiser on Jun 24, 2010 21:29:02 GMT -6
Hey Todd,
I think that is classified on a "I don't know basis" and the fan designer may take this to his grave. Seriously, this fan really blows. It moves a lot of air as I found out when I was bench testing it, but it should as it pulls over 4 amps. Those Panaflo fans you posted about on another thread would probably do a good job if you use 4 mounted in a square configuration in place of the original. That would be moving over 270 CFM.
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;D
