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Post by Cruiser on Apr 13, 2012 22:25:15 GMT -6
Have you tried opening the gas cap to see if the fuel will flow when trying to start? Sometimes there is a vent in the cap which plugs up and can restrict the flow of fuel from the tank.
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Post by Cruiser on Apr 13, 2012 11:15:59 GMT -6
I will post a picture of the hose this evening. Does your hose look like this?  This is the carb drain hose. They are usually situated near the carb and may exit anywhere under the scoot. They are usually bolted down to something. |
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Post by Cruiser on Mar 21, 2012 20:01:08 GMT -6
This scoot uses the Linhai engine. All 4 stroke Chinese scoots are OHC.
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Post by Cruiser on Sept 30, 2011 21:49:06 GMT -6
Here's my interpretation of what happened.
The scoot came from the factory with the lights always on feature. The owner had it modified for the on/off switch. The technician wisely added the ballast resistors to help control the AC voltage which was originally regulated in part by the load imposed by the lights. This is standard on a lot of the 50cc scoots with on/off light switches.
This should in no way affect the ECU as far as AC or DC voltage requirements. If the ECU does use AC, the ballast will help regulate the AC.
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Post by Cruiser on Sept 30, 2011 21:01:17 GMT -6
The (r) is the symbol for a registered trademark.
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Post by Cruiser on Sept 29, 2011 20:36:05 GMT -6
Yeah... I ended up taking the diaphragm out of the new carb and putting it in the old one. I thought for sure problems solved, I even let it idle for quite some time. So I hoped on for a test ride, went about 50 miles on the freeway again no problems. Got off with the intentions of turning around and heading back and sputter, sputter, stall! Had to be towed home. I don't care if I'm dying and that bag O crap is my only hope, I won't try to ride it again! Just trying to get it running so I can sell it. Sounds like the needle valve got hung up. Tapping on the carb will usually get it to lower. However, this problem will probably keep recurring until the reason for the hang up is removed. |
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Post by Cruiser on Sept 29, 2011 20:22:49 GMT -6
I appreciate the response. I have a 2011 Vip Future Champion that does 6000 on the tach and can't get any higher. I took the hose off the air box from the carb but kept the end on the carb. I took the washer out of the variator. What else can I do? If 6000 rpm is the max on the centerstand, then it sounds like you have a restricted CDI. For reference, I have 6.5 gram rollers in my variator but the weights in the variator will not limit the engine rpms while on the centerstand. My engine can hit 9000 rpm and more which is above redline. I would keep all plumbing to the airbox and carb stock until you find out what's going on. |
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Post by Cruiser on Sept 28, 2011 21:11:39 GMT -6
Welcome to the forum, drmudd56. I bought this same scoot new in 2008. It did 42 mph out of the box with no mods. Obviously, this one had no restrictions. It pulls over 8000 rpm on the road. How high does your tach read at your top speed? Can you get the engine to rev higher on the center stand? I think your problem is either in the variator or the carb (air/fuel mixture). I installed an unrestricted CDI on mine, but I didn't notice any real difference in performance. Give us some more info and we should be able to pull some more mphs out of this puppy.
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Post by Cruiser on Sept 14, 2011 18:22:00 GMT -6
The advice of not overdoing it when tightening nuts and bolts is very good, but how does a person know what "overdoing it" is especially if they are not experienced in wrenching? To take the guess work out - use a torque wrench. Especially important for engine work like assembling the head and engine cases and a good idea for tightening the spark plug. I have no idea what 70 foot pounds or 40 foot pounds feels like when tightening. I have done my own repairs and maintenance on cars, motorcycles, small engines, and scoots for 50 years and I own 1/4", 3/8", and 1/2" drive click type torque wrenches. Once I guesstimated tightening the variator nut on my 250cc and lost it after about 1 hour of riding. So much for not overdoing it.  So, if I have any doubts, I use my torque wrenches. |
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Post by Cruiser on Sept 13, 2011 22:03:02 GMT -6
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Post by Cruiser on Sept 12, 2011 12:02:30 GMT -6
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Post by Cruiser on Sept 11, 2011 21:17:16 GMT -6
You may be right Cruiser. I have never opened up one of those portable jump starter units. They do look like those batteries I've seen in emergency lighting units and alarm systems, made to put out a little power over a long period of time. I have replaced the battery in my unit. They are the same type batteries found in alarm systems and emergency lights. |
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Post by Cruiser on Sept 11, 2011 21:15:49 GMT -6
When charging an AGM over a long period of time like in winter storage, the charging voltage has to be maintained in a specific range in order to avoid damage to the battery. In everyday scoot use this does not seem to be an issue. I believe some AGM batteries have to be filled by the purchaser. If your battery has no vent tube, then it is an AGM type. The cap for the filler holes usually is a one piece unit which snaps into place and is never taken off during the life of the battery.
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Post by Cruiser on Sept 11, 2011 20:58:26 GMT -6
These types of batteries are not designed to be used in motor vehicle applications. They are used in the electronics industry for back up power supplies. While they may "work", they would probably wear out pretty quickly. They are made to put out a little power over a long period of time, not the short bursts of high power we use for starting engines.  These are the types of batteries used in portable jump starters. Some of these jump starters are rated at over 1000 amps starting power. The tab style connector isn't so good for multiple connections, but the battery is capable of all the power you need for starting. As with all AGM batteries, charging voltage is more critical than with wet cell batteries. |
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Post by Cruiser on Sept 10, 2011 22:30:58 GMT -6
Here's the one I'm using: www.pegasusautoracing.com/productdetails.asp?RecID=7535Managed to scoff it off Ebay for $25. Mounted at the same level as the original vacuum unit. Angled the outlet at 45 degrees higher than the inlet. Do not use the vacuum pump if you are installing an electric (electronic) pump.   1800 miles with no problems. |
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