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alleyoop,

Awesome, I will probably do that this weekend. It seems to be more reliable now, but still need to let the bike warm up before starting out or it will die at the first stop sign.

Thanks again for the great info.

Todd

I am thinking someone may have modded the Pilot jet, I looked at it closely with a Magnifying glass and it looks kinda scratched around the orifices.

Todd

Ok, finally I think I have good data and can say that the bike is running fine now.

Here is what I found, the Automatic choke was working intermittently.
I had cranked the bike and let it idle from about 70 degrees. I heard it stay in high idle and never went down. I heard the fan come on and went to shake the bike and it died. I opened the seat and felt the Choke module it was not warm at all. The connector was not making good contact, as well as the wires coming from it felt broken at the module. I spliced the wires, and tightened the connector. All seems fine now.

In doing this I had a thought of a way to make the choke sure fire. What if you wrapped a coil of coolant line around it. That way when the coolant was up to temp it would always keep it extended. It might take a bit longer than the electrical version but should still work in a pinch out on the road.

Another thought, if anyone has a similar scooter, try this. Go out crank it up cold, and just give it a tiny shake and see if it dies. I am assuming the temps need to be some where between 50 and 70. If it is real cold or real hot it will probably work correctly.

I was beginning to doubt myself about this bike. The problem is this is only the second time to work on a carb with electric choke. The other was a 2001 Honda Elite 80, with a severely gummed up carb. But I cleaned it really good and it worked flawlessly.


Thanks for all the help!!!
Todd

BTW, I needed a break away from the Scooter and took a ride on my FZ6 today ;D


Todd

Just to recap what has been done:

Cleaned carb thoroughly 3 times. Removing anything that can be unscrewed and blowing Carb cleaner through every orifice.
Upped the Main from a 115 to 130
removed all smog stuff (Same problems before this)
sprayed Carb cleaner all around carb while running, no change in RPM
Tried Diff Plugs DPR8EA and DPR7EA
Checked Valves both in Spec .004 In .006 Ex
Adjusted Float Level from 17mm to 22mm no change at all
Tried the air/fuel screw from Closed out to 3 turns. No difference
Needle clip positions 1-3 it has total 3 positions.
inspected the Diaphram, no tears, or cracks
Fresh Fuel added a little Sea Foam
Cleaned and re-oiled the UNI Air Filter
Checked all connections to Coil and CDI
Freshly charged new battery
Checked the float valve to make sure it closes
Bike has 4200 miles on it.



The problems are:

until it is up to full temp, (Fan comes on) it will die if it is leaned to the left or is jarred the slightest.

Also cant seem to get any color on the plug, it is bright white.

With the bike cold it runs fine when moving or under acceleration. It will die when stopping or idling or making a slow left. I can keep it running if I keep a little throttle while braking or turning.

Once the fan comes on, the bike will not die, even if I shake it or lean it to the left.

i think I will do a compression test today and just see what it is showing. I am wondering if I may have a leaky valve.


Todd

I will go through it again tomorrow, but I actually traced all the wires to make sure nothing was pinched or damaged in anyway. The real kicker is it only has the Left and stopping problem till it warms up. And even before that if it was missing a pulse from the CDi I would feel it miss. It never does, from Cold pulling out of drive at WOT it never misses a beat . And as long as I have 1/4 or above throttle it wont die. I dont think it is a CDI issue, and when I say I can jar it and make it quit, I mean a very subtle movement.
I will try and take a video of it tomorrow to show you how gently I can touch it and make it quit before it gets to operating temp. All while idling fine. It is not like it is an electrical issue or even pump issue. It just starts to hesitate, not like it misses or just quits, it is like it gets a huge gulp of fuel when it gets bumped.

jrryan,

Oh I wont give up. I love the challenge.

You might be on to something with the Leaking Diaphragm. I have read about this but mine seems to be fine. I checked it a few times, and also actuated the slide in the carb. Acted like the one in my DR650. but it could be a small leak. I cant ssem to get any color in that plug other than at idle.

Also my Carb Slide has the White plastic needle holder that you turn a 1/4 turn to lock in place. I always make sure it is working right before placing back in the carb.

80-85 mph, wow that would be nice. Mine strains to get to 60 and I am below 1000 and weigh about 200# I figured I should be getting better performance, but I know there is a problem since that plug stays like new (White)

Not sure I need the ice, it is the opposite, it dies before warming up (Full operating temp). Once warm I cant make it die by shaking it or leaning it in any direction. I will check the CDi wiring, it looked clean when I re-mounted the CDI under the seat.

Thanks again guys, I will be sure to document my findings when I resolve this issue.

Todd

Ok, just tried the DPR7EA-9 and the same thing, the bike has cooled for a few minutes and it is hard to start, and the slightest movement will make it die. Once it warms up, it will start easily and you cant make it die by shaking it.

Todd