Clinician
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Post by robertwav1 on Oct 20, 2015 7:01:08 GMT -6
Okay guys. Like I said in the post, I don't have a whole lot of experience on small engine stuff so listening to the techs that work on these all day long. Not to say they are correct but figured I'd follow the experience. The way it was explained to me was that on these BBK's, the aluminum has a lot of air injected into the mold, tis why they are so cheap. Yes, there are better kits then others on the market but I use what they use since they tell me they tried them all. I was also told that if you don't hear the valves at all, it's too tight. Again, I'm only going on what I've been told and would rather follow experience of a shop that does two or three mods a week. This is the reason I joined the forum, to get input from all possible sources so, the criticism is well taken.
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Clinician
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Post by robertwav1 on Oct 19, 2015 15:29:07 GMT -6
I've been getting different information on valve settings and finding the .003 and .004 are not quite enough on these engines. The aluminum heats up and expands sometimes causing valves to be partially open resulting in lost compression as the engine heats up. I've found through trial and error that .006 to .010 are a more reliable setting and allows for expansion. These are with the BBK on three bikes now. Not a ton of experience here so this is only my findings so far. We plan on building several more as the days pass, sort of a hobby thing. Constantly tuning and comparing and asking around this is where we are at. One of the 50's we've taken apart had around a .020 setting and it ran fine? I don't want to confuse, just telling other's what we found.
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Clinician
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Post by robertwav1 on Oct 16, 2015 6:27:42 GMT -6
I use an inexpensive 10-40 as well. I think what's more important is that it's changed often. Use a less expensive oil and change it more, your engine will last longer.
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Post by robertwav1 on Oct 8, 2015 18:08:40 GMT -6
Hey all, reading through this thread I would like to add something about the carb on these things. I am an older motor head but never worked on these things till recently. Learning quickly as I was lucky enough to talk to a tech that knows them pretty well. Here's the thing I learned with the carb when I was having a problem similar to yours. I was asked, did you prime the carb? I said yes of course but I was doing it wrong. In priming, one of the most important things is after you get it running it must be primed by holding your hand over the intake of the carb and reving engine hard. It wants to stall and it may. Restart and do it again and again until you get a handful of gas then, do it again. The way it was explained to me is that there is so many small passages in the carb it's impossible that the air will work out. This is the only way to prime and I can you this, it worked for me after I was shown how to do it. I did with the new superflow carb and my problems were gone. The thing never did run right when I bought it....through the old carb back in and primed it the way it's suppose to be and bingo....even that old carb worked well. So I guess what I'm saying is that you are right in it being a carb problem but prime it hard and hopefully it will eliminate your carb problems. I guess a lot of you know this but I haven't seen it mentioned so I figured I would add my .02. Hope it helps cause carb problems are frustrating. The old days we used to adjust the float with a little square they gave you and it had to be dead on. Accelerator pump had to work correctly like in these things which can be checked with the carb in your hand, loaded with gas, it should squirt through the jet. Again, I was shown this otherwise I would never know...
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Clinician
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Post by robertwav1 on Oct 5, 2015 6:29:42 GMT -6
Thanks, I'll do some figuring from there.
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Clinician
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Post by robertwav1 on Oct 4, 2015 14:23:57 GMT -6
Hi again,
Does anyone know what the stock gears are for the GY6? I'm thinking of changing out to gain a little more speed. The BBK has increased power significantly with the carb. Top speed though is maybe 43mph. It would be nice to achieve another 5mph maybe without bogging down the engine. I just don't want to buy the wrong gears. 49cc to 100cc with the kit.
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Post by robertwav1 on Sept 16, 2015 4:55:01 GMT -6
Thanks Man, looks like I'll go with the gears then, seems it's the safest way without taxing the engine too much and just a little m ore top end which is what I'm looking for.
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Post by robertwav1 on Sept 15, 2015 12:02:37 GMT -6
Okay, that all makes sense. Just one other question, I noticed they have a A9 performance camshaft available. Is this worth it? It says it will improve performance on a 50cc BBK. What do you guys think about that?
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Post by robertwav1 on Sept 15, 2015 6:24:56 GMT -6
Well thanks for the response guys. No, it doesn't labor starting up and I did change the weights that came with the kit. Changing the final drive gears, is it something that people do with these things? I see on youtube some of these bikes reaching 65-70....just wondering.
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Clinician
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Post by robertwav1 on Sept 14, 2015 16:15:29 GMT -6
Hello all,
Kinda new at this stuff but getting aquainted. First, installed a big bore kit on a 49cc scoot and also a superflow carb with I believe a 94 size jet. I have an orange CDI box, coil and wire. My top speed is only around 45mph. Lot's of torque and pull so I'm pretty impressed with the build. What I would like to know if there is a specific CDI box that I could get that would improve top end? Appreciate the feedback. It's a GY6 long case 139qmb with the 100cc big bore kit installed.....Thanks All.
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