I'll check by a tire shop and ask if they could re-screw mine in and see if it fixes it. Thank you for the tips!
As I look at my tires, and it shows a little in the picture, they've both collected tons of oil on the rims and front brake disc over the years... I'm sure it's probably enough to affect my brake power so I wanna clean it. Can I just spray some brake cleaner all over the rims and inside the brakes without taking anything off?
Last Edit: Oct 23, 2015 16:25:28 GMT -6 by rosiemoto
Hi, I finally changed my oil for the first time (only took 12,000 miles...), I'm happy I understand it and can do it myself now.
However, I don't understand the dipstick, where I'm supposed to fill it. Currently I've got it to the end of the X's. I'm measuring without screwing it in. Here's a picture with it wiped off:
Depending which tire I lean the bike on, it goes under the last X or over the last X. I figure if I balance the bike in the middle and check it, that's where it should be...? So balanced in the middle it's on the last X.
I've had a problem for months with my rear tire where sometimes every morning it's flat, or sometimes it'll hold air perfectly fine all week and stay exactly where I put it. The common thing is I check my air every day, and sometimes after pumping the air I'll have to let some out from overfilling... well, once while I was letting air out quickly, the valve stem core got stuck and it kept hissing and letting air out when I wasn't even touching it anymore. (I'm assuming that's called the core.) I had to push the core in again with the little air-letter-outter on my air gauge and it popped itself back into place I guess. I'm guessing it would do it again if I let air out that quick again, but I usually let it out slowly. This makes me wonder about the valve stem core being the cause of my mysterious random flat tire.
I'm thinking since I check my air almost every day, maybe sometimes the core is sticking slightly from me simply checking it, and other times not... maybe depending how I push it or something?
I've tried parking with the stem at the top of the wheel, and again at the bottom, and again on the center stand so there's no pressure on the wheel... it doesn't seem to make any difference; each way it has gotten a flat tire.
History with the tire is: new valve stem was put in when I got the rear tire replaced. Slime was put in shortly after to fix a leak. It held air fine for a while, then this "random" flat tire started happening.
I think I might be on the right track here. If it's the valve core, could taking that out with a valve core tool and putting it back in fix it? Possibly the shop didn't tighten it enough or something when doing the slime? (You wouldn't believe they've left me with unscrewed bolts, broken faring tabs, unhooked wires, etc, after working on stuff, many times)
Thank you!
Last Edit: Oct 21, 2015 21:51:46 GMT -6 by rosiemoto
Okay I received the rear brake switch I ordered and figured out how it all works and even managed to put the broken one back together, kinda. The problem is the "barrel" has separated from the rest of the piece and so I think that's why the whole thing isn't holding itself in place and making the brake light not work.
BUT, PROBLEM. My switch's connectors are different than the one I bought. Mine has little metal clips that slide and clip themselves into a plastic thing, and the new one has metal round poles instead of the clips. Please see this short 1 min video I made... at the end of the video I got an idea how to repair my old one to work... please let me know if it would work!
I'll keep that brand in mind when I get to it, thank you.
My brake light is stuck on now that my rear brake switch isn't holding itself in. But with this constant brake light is also my battery draining quickly. I rode for 2 hours today and it's close to unable to start my bike. I'll just have to tape it for now like Alleyoop suggested. I just ordered a new one, should be here by next week. A new front switch is already on its way.
When I look at the product on eBay, it has a "barrel" with the switch popping out of the edge. Mine doesn't have that barrel at all like it rotted away and fell off over time... and I think that's why it's not staying in place. So when I pulled out the switch for the first time the other day, I bet the stuff that fell out from in there was the remains of the barrel. Once that stuff fell out, it lost its grip to stay in place entirely, so brake light = always on now.
Okay thank you... and these oils saying "for Diesel" is fine for scooters? Everything's pointing to yes but I wanna make sure.
I just learned this, for any newbies like me: I was told I can take my old oil to a local recycling center or a place like Advance Auto Parts and they'll take it. Just put it in a clean water or milk jug, or any container that closes without leaking.
Last Edit: Oct 13, 2015 19:27:54 GMT -6 by rosiemoto
i would measure the width,,,looks well worn to me and i'll put a 20 spot on that with the roller problem is where your rpm's going up while the bike is slowing down,,,thats where i would think the performance is suffering,,,,new rollers as per Alleys suggestion and a new quality belt and BAM!!! you be in business again
Belt: Thank you, I'll see about getting a new belt as well. This one's been through 12,000 miles. Do I just check the printing on the belt to see what type I need? I never thought to look. I'm not sure how to measure the width because I only have a standard tape measure with inches/cm... or will that work? ...or is there simply a standard that most scooters use? I see a lot of 842-20-30 on eBay...
Brake switches: I ordered a front brake switch, only $5 yay! I'm gonna take another look at the rear brake lever and switch and see if I can understand it better... mine seems to be pretty messed up, so I don't understand how it's supposed to work or look like, which makes me afraid to order a new one on my own. I can't find any videos on it for scooters... maybe I'll make one myself eventually.
Alleyoop - I just ordered the CVT removal tool. Thank you for that!
Last Edit: Oct 13, 2015 19:46:15 GMT -6 by rosiemoto
Unless i missed it in the text,,,engine still reving and bike decelerating,,,and as you stated (Alley) rollers worn out,,,but i didn't see that the belt was changed,,,that could be the cause of the strange rpm problems? (along with the rollers being worn),,,,
Yesterday I noticed I hear some rattling in the CVT area at idle, so probably yes the rollers... even more reason for me to get the heavier ones I want!
Some history: My belt has never been changed that I know of. I was always told it looked fine so they never touched it... that rev/deceleration problem started when the shop changed my variator and rollers about a year ago. Some random guy was there and he put in like 4g rollers or something way too light and my bike couldn't even reach 35mph and it was just revving between 7-8k with no power. Imagine riding a bike with your clutch pressed half way in the whole time, that's what it felt like! So I went back and said the guy must've put way too light of rollers in, and so they put a different variator and different rollers in, and it still felt wrong, but improved. I went back again and asked for heavier rollers, and instead they ordered the stock rollers and put those in, which is what I still have now, but it always still felt too revvy to me. They refused to work on it any further when I asked again for heavier rollers. This is why I wanna do this myself! Tired of dealing with the people at these shops lol.
Here is a picture of the belt from when I was down in it the other day.. what do you think?
I'm gonna pick some from online and paste the links here, please tell me if these are okay choices for scooter that wants 15w40. This'll tell me if I've got the right idea when I go to a store to get some. I don't want the best; I just don't wanna pick out something that will be totally wrong.
I just took apart my front end and got to the brakes. I took off the front brake switch to inspect it, and the problem is it's got no springyness or click to the switch; it's just loose and falls whichever direction you hold it. The connectors were also pretty rusted when I unplugged it.
My back brake switch.. not sure how to explain it so I made an illustration out of the picture you showed me before, Alleyoop. When I pulled it out, some plastic or rubber pieces fell out. Does it just maybe need a good push so it pops through to the other side or something?
Last Edit: Oct 13, 2015 12:45:26 GMT -6 by rosiemoto
I just can't figure this out... how do I figure out which oil I need? My bike says "Lubricant: SAE15W40" on the side, but I keep coming up with Diesel oil when I look it up online?! There's so many... I don't know what's what.
Also big question: does it need to be synthetic? The shop I bought my bike from always puts in synthetic...that's really all I know.
What's the trick to this, so I can just walk in any store and know what I need?
Here is a picture of my adjustable wrench from Ace Hardware. Do you think this will work with the hammer? The handle is rubber and the tool feels pretty heavy. I have a hammer and also a rubber mallet that might help to not hurt the rubber handle on this wrench...?
If this looks suitable, I think I'll use it and hammer/mallet combo, and order that lock tool.
Would it be possible to hold it steady with the strap wrench (what size would I need?) and use adjustable wrench on the nut? I don't have the 17mm socket. So these two tools...
