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2 amps it is, then! Thanks!
I'll let ya know what I get on this CDI in a few minutes

Good morning, my sunshines!

Right, cyborg ?! The savings... LOL! Actually, what that was in both of the switches is crud, leaves and dirt, mulch basically, that I think got in there when the bike was still outside over the first 3 months. We had a crazy storm about a month ago ( OMG, I can't believe that I've been working on this for 4 months now!)and the container with all of the switches went to the ground and they ended up in a pool of gunk ! When I cleaned this one up, the gunk just flaked out of there so easily. But, I do have a set of new switches coming and I think they'll be here tomorrow.


jct842 thanks ! In fact, I do have a solder station I am a vaper (The one thing that finally got me off of cigarettes 3 years ago next month) and wanted to try my hand at building my own devices so, last year I finally bought one. But, there have been so many times over the years that I needed one for just that onelittle connection, it's amazing that I held out so long.

Alleyoop , I know, nastyyyyyy , huh ?
It was mostly mulch in there but, it cleaned up well and quickly.
About the CDI (Pics below), I did find it last night and was testing it when, the battery on my scoot went dead so, I've got to charge that up. I hope it will, I read last night that AGM batteries don't want to charge after they've gone dead. It's testing at just above 10 V's right now. I have my old battery charger that is capable of charging at 2 amps and 10 amps. Would you say, it's good, as a 120 CCA battery to charge it at 10 Amps ? From the formulas that I read last night, it will take all day to charge but, safety is what I want to be sure of. (EDIT: I just re-read a little on the charging after some sleep and see that the formula referred to AMP HOURS, not cranking amps so, cool, at least it wont take all day! Also, it looks like at 2 amps it will take about 5-6 hours. )

Here's the famous CDI and its wires.
I wasn't getting a continuity reading from the KILL wire , then I cleaned the kill switch and I think that I was getting continuity back to the CDI with the key in the right position (According to the PDF that you linked me to) but, I was double checking my readings when the battery went dead and I got distracted from the CDI.

Mui bettah ! And now, I do get continuity from the B/W wire to frame (Although, there is some resistance (The probes touching each other read 003 , where the wire to frame reads 008) . The same B/W wire at the CDI to the back of the kill switch has no resistance.

I did the continuity test (Pages 3/4) for the kill switch from the link you provided ink and there was no continuity at the B/W wire, at all. If I followed correctly, the kill switch is bad. I'm going to open it up and see if I can spot and fix the problem and re-test it

Me thinks, you may be having your dinner or cracking another problem at the moment I'll run down the block to grab that can of kitty food that I'm obligated for, real quick and check back in

I took your last comment to suggest that there's a chance that both methods, key off and kill switch could fail (Sorry, to be so dense concerning circuits but, I am) . I have to have my fail safe shut off method in mind before trying because, my bike is back in my dining room. I could probably take a lil carbon monoxide but, my kitties, not so much, lol!