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Post by olivertwisted on Feb 28, 2016 22:12:16 GMT -6
Ok. Thank you. Im reading up and using the tests in the PDF you had linked me to some posts ago. Have a good night Alleyoop !
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Post by olivertwisted on Feb 28, 2016 22:00:41 GMT -6
I hardly ever want to have a drink , even to toast. But I keep beers here for my brother and decided after that video to bust one open! Lol! Thanks, for the party! I needed one ! I was tempted to but didn't christen the bike with it! CHEERS!
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Post by olivertwisted on Feb 28, 2016 21:49:28 GMT -6
LOLOLOL!!! LMBO!!!!
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Post by olivertwisted on Feb 28, 2016 21:38:41 GMT -6
Thank you! I did as you said, removed the BW wire and tried again. GOOD STRONG BLUE SPARK! There's a party at OliverTwisteds house right now!
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Post by olivertwisted on Feb 28, 2016 21:26:09 GMT -6
Ok. I had plugged the CDI back in to check it. I'll re-do it. I am with you on that with the reading. So, I have tried it on the three lowest ohms settings, giving room for my not understanding the electrical realm and figuring I was not taking something into account. Right now, as I try to trace the green wires, I am getting .3 and such at the first position on the ohms setting. You may have missed my previous post with this pic
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Post by olivertwisted on Feb 28, 2016 20:32:57 GMT -6
Ok. Good to know!
Good news is, my start switch is working. Not so good is, I dont get any spark!
Ok. So, does the previous option " OR you can make your own GROUND to the KILLSWITCH splice into the green wire and ground that wire and then both Start and Kill should work peachy keen." still stand ? Frankly, I don't really care if the "Stock" wires are bypassed . But, for my understanding, what do you say to the 39 and 46 readings that I get intermittently ? Should I understand those as measurements of resistance that, are supporting the indication of a poor ground ?
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Post by olivertwisted on Feb 28, 2016 19:40:27 GMT -6
Hey, I was wondering how your hand has healed up too ?! It's been a while, now.
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Post by olivertwisted on Feb 28, 2016 19:31:07 GMT -6
LOLOL! I found SEVERAL spiders living in there!
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Post by olivertwisted on Feb 28, 2016 19:30:37 GMT -6
You know, Alley, I'm still getting readings such as 46 or 39 on my meter when I am testing for continuous ground and I have even opened a brand new meter to still get those kinds of readings. I've tried disconnecting the ground that I rigged for the start switch and replacing everything to stock also. Nothing is ever making any sense. A shot in the dark...Would you have a look at the wire splicing that I did for the rectifier and check that the wiring looks correct? Remember that the replacement rectifier was wired differently than my original ? I plugged them together in correspondence to the way the old and new plugs inserted to each other. Perhaps, you will see a problem there with the way something is grounding? Could anything there have to do with the strange ? I'm really hoping that it isn't ALL just me although,it may be! lol! Gosh, I wish I was sharper on this subject. I hope I haven't made ya sorry for ever jumping in to help. I'm just trying to make sense of the insanity that I'm experiencing with these readings but, if I'm totally way off the mark with the idea, please tell me to just forget it, lol! Here is that original thread with pics of the two rectifiers... Rectifiers postAnd, the wires plugged...
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Post by olivertwisted on Feb 28, 2016 17:48:38 GMT -6
Thank you so much, Alleyoop ! The makers of my battery replied to me having asked about how they would have me deep charge it but you answered me first so I went with your answer. They doubted that my battery would take a charge after discharging completely but, it did, Hooray! I also went yesterday and purchased a float/maintenance charger and just got that hard wired on for quick connect. Now, I can run the battery without worry. I also bought the D/C operated impact wrench to carry onboard, from HF that jerryscript recommended about a year ago. I got it with a coupon for $20 !That'll suit me better than the variator tool in ANY situation plus, I've needed one before and never had one. Regarding my switches, in case these particulars change anything, my killswitch only has 2 of these connectors on it as opposed to 3 but, between those two , all of the wires inserted between those 2 do occupy 3 different parallel contact spaces. OH NO! LOOK WHAT I JUST SPOTTED!!!Here is my photo of the switch before I ever took it off of the bike And here it is, NOW.... I'm SURE you see it right away. No WONDER my readings made no sense at all!
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Post by olivertwisted on Feb 26, 2016 20:53:25 GMT -6
Thank you much! I'm sure I'll be back on the horse tomorrow Just lots of extra stuff has been going on the last few days. Today, it's just one of those days the phone won't shut up when ya need 2 more hands then ya already have
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Post by olivertwisted on Feb 26, 2016 20:26:16 GMT -6
I'm sorry Alley. I think I'm on overload tonight. I can't concentrate well at the moment I think because, I have my relatives blowing up my phone about the medical issue I was helping out with, the last two days , on top of my being a lame brain with electrical circuits Perhaps, I will be clearer tomorrow . Know that, I am so glad for you being such a help to me . I would never be able to figure this out without you. I'm SURE that's obvious!!! LOL!
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Post by olivertwisted on Feb 26, 2016 19:22:38 GMT -6
OH! Lol! Ok. Ill try that!
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Post by olivertwisted on Feb 26, 2016 17:08:04 GMT -6
And with the KEY to "On" I still get continuity in the kill position OR run position. It's grounding, no matter what. So, this switch is "Grounding out" ? Is a bad switch, I gather.
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Post by olivertwisted on Feb 26, 2016 17:05:46 GMT -6
Here's what I get with the battery contacts clamped closed.
Key OFF, RUN position = Continuity at the switch and the frame. Key OFF , KILL position = Continuity at the switch and the frame. So, right away, I'm not "Breaking the ground" when I flick the kill switch to the right.
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