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Post by olivertwisted on Aug 9, 2016 14:42:14 GMT -6
Great news, on the CDI !
I wouldn't draw any conclusions about how it's running until you have the air intake sealed up though. If you're not getting the correct air/vacuum, your carb will not give you a true reading. Make sure your hose connections are not leaking and that the manifold seal at the front is good. Once you have all the air in check, you may find that sweet spot.
It's time for a scoot for me, today!
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Post by olivertwisted on Aug 9, 2016 14:29:51 GMT -6
I'd J.B. weld that piece back on if you can. I believe it is meant to stop the travel of the kick start gear. That's probably whats going on, it's just traveling past that spot and ramping over it, traveling further than it should till it goes wonky. I don't remember off hand, if there's a washer. You may have to look around at some vids and pics.
Hopefully, the clutch wasn't damaged and it will work out.
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Post by olivertwisted on Aug 4, 2016 4:15:56 GMT -6
This appears to be yours, according to your engine # . The listing shows all measurements with pics. I'd suggest , you remove yours first and compare measurements to it. 1P39QMB clutch For your info, when looking for CVT , engine , and component parts use your engine number and GY6 to narrow your search. Sometimes, parts will also be identifiable by your make and model. But we're dealing with China so, I always try to compare to my original part. danny |
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Post by olivertwisted on Aug 3, 2016 21:22:22 GMT -6
Also, on your switch....
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Post by olivertwisted on Aug 3, 2016 21:15:18 GMT -6
Heres one nifty way to get it off. GOTTA love leverage! and for that 34mm nut You;re welcome !  |
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Post by olivertwisted on Aug 3, 2016 20:53:22 GMT -6
Yeah, theres a 34mm nut under there too! Search Y.T. for various tricky ways to get them off This MAY be your switch. I'd say get yours out first to compare them. linkdanny |
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Post by olivertwisted on Aug 3, 2016 3:03:24 GMT -6
Ok. Let us know what ya find. It could be that your pads are slipping inside that clutch. Sandpaper may save it. Heres a good vid for inspecting and servicing it. |
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Post by olivertwisted on Aug 3, 2016 2:19:38 GMT -6
Good deal. Hope so !
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Post by olivertwisted on Aug 3, 2016 2:18:31 GMT -6
I don't understand why you wouldn't be able start the bike without the kickstart mechanism in? I took mine completely out of my scooter and never have put it back in. It is mechanical and should have no bearing on anything.Earlier I thought, by your saying that it would only start with it in that you had meant that the kickstart was the only way that you were able to start your scoot. I understand now, that your start switch works for one of your brake levers.
You dont have to remove all of he mechanism though. Just the kick lever, usually.
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Post by olivertwisted on Aug 3, 2016 1:56:58 GMT -6
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Post by olivertwisted on Aug 2, 2016 23:24:49 GMT -6
Yup, Im happy banging two empty coconut halves together |
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Post by olivertwisted on Aug 2, 2016 23:05:33 GMT -6
danny Your brake switch is usually underneath the end of the brake lever. If you cant manage to bend a wd40 straw to get in there, then yes, you will have to remove the shroud to do anything. The switch may look like this link I'd say, take the shroud off to deal with it since you're not familiar with it yet. That sound in the first vid sounds like the starter solenoid clicking. I don't know how your scoot is wired but, I suppose it may be that both brake levers must be held to start your scoot. If you normally have to, a bad switch on one side could prevent a start. Mind you, that you CAN have enough battery to operate your bike while running after a kick start because you have not depended on the batteries ability to crank the starter and are also charging it as you ride. But, to crank your engine with the starter requires much higher amperage than you may have in a weak battery. That is why batteries list their "CCA", -Cold Cranking Amps. It's hard to tel what I hear in the second video, it sounds like a whine, perhaps the clutch is not engaging correctly and friction is occurring.Again, A BUM clutch. Your rear wheel not turning is a reinforcement of that. I'd say,deal with your brake switch first so you can see it will start(IF the solenoid is ok) and you can remove the kickstart assembly to observe what the clutch is doing. You could hold the brake lever that works and bridge the solenoid contacts with a screwdriver, to see if the engine turns over that way. If it does, take the CVT cover off and observe and listen for where the noise is coming from and whether your clutch pulleys are freezing in position while running. Heres a vid on the solenoid...
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Post by olivertwisted on Aug 2, 2016 22:20:14 GMT -6
Yes, richardv , you must have. I posted it early on in my restore. I had no impact wrench or variator tool. Where there's a will.... Right? I do have the 12v now, that I carry on my scoot . |
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Post by olivertwisted on Aug 2, 2016 14:54:50 GMT -6
"... It could grip by the husk!"
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Post by olivertwisted on Aug 2, 2016 14:37:40 GMT -6
Haha! Already measuring things in scooter time!
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