2008 Linhai Aeolus 300 Getting my Scooter going after 2+yr [help] By cloudsifter (Read 9,338 times)

[cloudsifter]

[Updated the title of this thread 7/29/16]
I'm working on getting my scooter going again after sitting for about two years and a move to Albuquerque from Dallas.

I've got a new battery and am going through checking fuses and cleaning contacts.  Lights work with key on, switches on the handles pretty much work, kind of scractchy, will clean with contact cleaner and replace if neccessary.

My question is- I know that a brake handle has to be engaged in order to start. However, at the moment, I have all of the brake fluid out of both master cylinders. Squeezing either brake handle with key on, kill switch set to run, and pushing the start button- the starter does not attempt to turn over.

My question is- Is fluid required in the reservoir in order to turn the starter motor when the brake lever is depressed?

Second Question- I took out both diodes down b the fuse box, and stuck an ohm meter on them set for diode... and no matter which way the polarity was... the diode did not open.  Both read open in both directions of polarity... Not sure yet if I need to 
replace those...but not sure of a part number on them either.

James

[olivertwisted]

Of all of the brake switches I've seen, the external circuit is closed mechanically, by pulling the brake lever and fluid compression should not be a factor. Pay special attention to the kill and start switches and the starter connections.

Heres what mine looked like inside!


Uh oh! an electrical question, I'll zip my lips on that one and let someone else chime in. You'll want to post some identifying info on your scoot , it'll better your chances for getting the help you need. I hope ya get her going real soon, cloudsifter !

[cloudsifter]

Thank you for the reply and pictures, olivertwisted.

For anyone coming along - 2008 Linhai Aeolus 300 as in the title. Cylinder is horizontal.

Also additional info I remembered.

Part of the time the scooter was down-2yrs there was water standing occasionally up by the battery (covers off) and the start relay (?) was partially submerged and I imagine that I cannot count on that having been water right.

There was a schematic in SD forum, but somewhat blurry when trying to enlarge it. I reached out to the OP of that who 'might' have as mentioned in that post, an enlargable version. As with us all 'life' happens and it's been years, and with a computer crash - they may not have that anymore. Totally understandable.

[EDIT: I did find the 250 wiring diagrams in this forum. So, they should apply to my 300. No longer need that]

So if anyone else has it - that would be great, too.

[olivertwisted]

You got it, cloudsifter .
Yeah, I'd bet the water did the deed. I restored my scoot with lots of help from this forum, took 6 months, because of the salty moist air here in my coastal town. Got it for $80 and we like to say that I put in well over it's monetary value in blood, sweat, and tears.
It used to look like this at 8 years old...










I may have found the 300 schematic for you.
linhai 300

CHASIS
Chasis

I Also found this general manual, its title suggests that the 260 and the 300 share a manual ?
Manual
And this, for part numbers, I didn't scan through it.
Part #'s link

[jct842]

Before you spend too much time and money on it I would check to see if the engine is free and not frozen or locked up. There are a lot of parts that could be damaged with water that high especially if it was in water for very long. Pull the belt cover and try to turn over the motor by hand, counter clockwise.

[cyborg]

I can't recall the Latin but it is along the lines of,, cut your losses and move along,, I would not go down this path

[cloudsifter]

cyborg olivertwisted jct842
I made a post earlier following up, and for some reason it didn't post...

To clarify.. the scooter was NOT underwater... the Starter relay which sits in the area of the battery tray...was sitting in some water that had accumulated in the battery tray- for awhile... seats and plastics off of the scooter... the scooter itself was not submerged....

James 

[olivertwisted]

Lol, I hadn't got the impression that it had been submerged. Though, Cyborg and jct842 thought that MINE had, for sure. Cyborg told me... "The next time that someone tries to sell you SpongeBob Square Pants' scooter, go off screaming into the night! ", LOL!

[cyborg]

Sorry I assumed that the waterline went up past the wheels and the baby was submerged,,,my bad,,,you can salvage a ton of the electrics if you can get the relays and components apart clean very well ,,,dressing contacts with a flat jewelers file or fine sandpaper,,,clean all connectors ,,you should be good to go,,,Oliver's bike was a disaster of the highest order,,,it literally looked like it was sitting at the bottom of the ocean for 2 months,,,she brought it back ,,,amazingly so,,,it looks as new and she got it running great too,,,,she can discount her labor so the rebuild was "reasonable",,,and she got the satisfaction of doing it herself ,,,

[cyborg]

As a side note I kinda was digging the DEAD MUMMY HUSBAND seat she had on that thing before she started workin on it,,,but I don't want to hijack the thread,,,I could go on for a week on that thing

[cloudsifter]

Bashan , JR , Alleyoop , <- tagged as well because might have an idea.  

Hopefully I won't have 'too far' to go on redoing things before it's running...When I had to set it aside in 2014 it was only because (I think) the CDI going bad issue. Heats up, sputters to a stop... cool down few minutes...could start and go a little further.. but not 'as' far... so to go 2 miles it took several cycles of that process.

I did not really know of the cdi issue at first... so ordered and replaced the fuel pump with a mikuni and new fuel lines and filter. That didn't fix the problem, though overall, I'm sure is a good thing to have new pumps and fuel/vacuum lines.

Also discovered somewhere about the CDI issue, ordered one and set it aside to replace.

Same time all the plastics and seat was off...discovered the answer to why my throttle felt a little weird in the handle...sometimes...At the carburetor as one of the cables comes out of the sleeve it's in... it's frayed. Ordered a set of cables from what I thought were the right ones online, but it was quickly obvious they were not the same...Called up Sunright and ordered a set of the right ones..probably was less than $20 for the pair. Those came in.

I put all this stuff aside as I had other things I had to tend to... and 'life' and time passing does it's thing...

So, FFWD to March, moved from DFW area to Albuquerque where temporarily I live with my son and his wife.

Just starting to work on the scooter as I have the time and inclination. It's either early in the morning right now that I have to work on it, or after 4pm when the hot sun passes a certain point and I have shade from the house to work on it.

I removed the throttle cables yesterday...will put on the new ones soon.
Also, from the beginning I had the gas gauge issue where it wouldn't go all the way to full when I filled it up after using a couple of gallons. It 'would' go to full and stay accurate from the vibration of the bike once I started it up and left the gas pump. So, if I can, the intent is to
slide the gas tank bank and take out the fuel leve sensor and do the fix I've seen in the forums and in youtube videos. I removed the bols/nuts securing the tank yesterday, and need to temp. remove a fuel line to the top of the tank as it hits a cross member and makes it where I can't slide the tank back to access the sensor.

Going back to the original subject in this post...I've been looking around for this relay online and I come up with several choices...

The original part number from Here Starter Relay
Diamo DIA-05-028-2404 is not that easy to find anymore...

Mine looks more like this at $59.99 with the allen head screws www.ebay.com/itm/like/141754695866?lpid=82&chn=ps&ul_noapp=true

A google search for - linhai 300 starter relay solenoid -

brings up several options that look similar... but they have nuts/studs vs
allen screws for connecting the wires from the battery etc.

such as this www.ebay.com/itm/Starter-Solenoid-Relay-FITS-KAWASAKI-BAYOU-220-KLF220-1988-2002-ATV-NEW/290695061314?_trksid=p2352135.c100338.m3726&_trkparms=aid%3D222007%26algo%3DSIC.MBE%26ao%3D1%26asc%3D20150313114020%26meid%3D3e45af6da2aa4c76827313ec6de23b71%26pid%3D100338%26rk%3D1%26rkt%3D7%26sd%3D191835628530

So, I'm wondering if they are the equivalent at much cheaper...

Any thoughts?

Thank you.

James




Bashan , JR , Alleyoop ,

[olivertwisted]

Haha, cyborg ! Right?! I'd probably "rag on it", right alongside ya! And thanks for the honorable mentions!

cloudsifter
Firstly, understand that I am no expert on anything but, I may be able to derive from my experiences enough to help out, here and there. If you read the tagline under my avatar....

You seem to have several issues here and I would only be replacing the things that already and obviously need to be.
Have you removed and cleaned the solenoid and starter contacts? If you have to remove them anyway to replace them, you may as well try cleaning them up. It may solve your problem, cheaper and quicker.Take pics and upload them for more sure responses. In general, you can count on Chinese parts showing variances in their configurations, fasteners, colors etc; So a close look at a hard to find part, with any identifiers in clear view, are best (PICS are your friend here). If we're more sure of the part coming off of your bike, someone may be able to help you locate the right one at a better price but, your situation is a little complicated since, the supply and info for your scoot are sparser than most so, pics and the most specs you can supply . That $7 part COULD be yours . Ebayers will jack up prices, hoping for that unbeknownst buyer that will pay $50 more for the same part. Don't be that guy.

If your cables are frayed, you may not be able to consistently deliver a proper fuel to air ratio under most conditions.It could be your run-ability problem and those should definitely be replaced, BUT

You said: "Heats up, sputters to a stop... cool down few minutes...could start and go a little further.. but not 'as' far... so to go 2 miles it took several cycles of that process."
That could be valve settings Air/Fuel/spark, electrical, poor connections etc. Mine was shutting down after warm up and it ended up being a bad stator although, I had a combination of issues and we went through just about everything we could before I stubbornly kept suspecting the stator since, I'd had a blown rectifier when I got the scoot.

[cloudsifter]

Ok, here are some pictures of the relay. 




Below is where/how my scooter sits right now. Sorry about that one being sideways... dont' know how to rotate it in tapatalk or the forum.



This is the picture of where the battery and relay were sitting, until I took this part off back in Texas.  The battery tray there is the part that had some water sitting in it- partly/mostly submerging the relay.

[cyborg]

I'd be lookin at the one for the Kawasaki myself,,,and I also would be looking at the coil,,,that's classic run fine get warm and shut off the couple minutes later fire up again and die quicker

[cloudsifter]

Jul 22, 2016 16:10:38 GMT -6 cyborg said:

I'd be lookin at the one for the Kawasaki myself,,,and I also would be looking at the coil,,,that's classic run fine get warm and shut off the couple minutes later fire up again and die quicker

I did go ahead and order the relay. I expect it midweek.  Now need to look into the coil...