2008 Linhai Aeolus 300 Getting my Scooter going after 2+yr [help] By cloudsifter (Read 9,341 times)

[olivertwisted]

Thanks, I am. Just enjoyin' the ride, nowadays. And ICE, ICE, ICE cloudsifter

[cloudsifter]

Went out today and jumped pos/negative across the coil on the starter relay. Strong click. (This is the one that was submerged previously)... left it in for testing...rehooked up the elec. plug to the relay and hit the held the starter button with a brake handle depressed. ENCOURAGING...starter motor turned, sounded like it should. old coil is not installed, and new one that came today, is not put in 'yet'...also, carb/throttle cables and intake is not installed... so didn't actually 'start' but nonetheless... it is encouraging because it should fire up with those things connected... May take pics of carb tomorrow so you guys might help me identify which one it is...as at some point once I know it will run as-is..I probably should up the jets (I think, not sure) and get a uni filter or something... I'm at about 5100' altitude now as opposed to about 500' prev. in Texas.

[cloudsifter]

Bashan , JR , Alleyoop , olivertwisted some time... Hooked up battery, new coil, starting fluid in hand, held brake, and starter button...Starter turned as it did yesterday, with starting fluid it 'almost' fired off once...starter was turning , and with the starter fluid seemed to almost kick off, was running on the fluid for a second or two...then no-go....

Gave it a few min rest, so as not to overheat the starter....

Tried same process again... was not able to get the same result... just starter turnin... no feeling like it was going to spark off....

Took fuel supply hose off of carb... aimed it down... tried starting... few drops were coming out... but not fast... I was thinking I should get a decent amount of fuel out of it steadily anyway...(this is 'old' fuel with some Pri-G added recently, but problably has not made it to carb yet...... fuel though, is 2 or 2.5yrs or so old..Possibility of gunked up carb, I'm sure... or some other obstruction related to old fuel... I have clear fuel filter and didn't see the fuel that is 'in' it really moving much....

[jct842]

Dump the dam fuel! Don't be so cheap, get some decent fuel that will actually burn instead of putting the fire out.

[cloudsifter]

Jul 28, 2016 17:49:23 GMT -6 jct842 said:

Dump the dam fuel! Don't be so cheap, get some decent fuel that will actually burn instead of putting the fire out.

Not cheap. For real. Just haven't figured out the last step or two to get the tank out... to dump it. Got the two nuts and bolts off a couple days ago. Not sure if it drops out or what. Or get a little squeeze bulb and siphon out what I can and kind of preload the hose into the carb with good gas as well.

I actually have pure no ethanol gas to go into it waiting- fresh.

On a good note - it ran on starter fluid once I realized my ding dong mistake of not connecting the CDI back up. Grrr.

[olivertwisted]

cloudsifter ,
Great! Sounds like all minor stuffs to deal with and VROOM ! Once all is done, remember that it can take quite a while for the carb bowl to fill up and yes, you should have gotten more than a few drops from the bowl port. I'd pull the carb to clean it thoroughly. Those passages are likely clogged, and you are also probably correct about needing to re-jet for altitude.
I'd use a siphon rather than pulling the tank, in fact that IS what I did.Then some cheesecloth to sop up anything at the bottom of the tank. On mine, the sending unit can come out without removing the entire tank , though I'm unfamiliar with your particular setup.

[cloudsifter]

Jul 29, 2016 1:53:53 GMT -6 olivertwisted said:

cloudsifter ,
Great! Sounds like all minor stuffs to deal with and VROOM ! Once all is done, remember that it can take quite a while for the carb bowl to fill up and yes, you should have gotten more than a few drops from the bowl port. I'd pull the carb to clean it thoroughly. Those passages are likely clogged, and you are also probably correct about needing to re-jet for altitude.
I'd use a siphon rather than pulling the tank, in fact that IS what I did.Then some cheesecloth to sop up anything at the bottom of the tank. On mine, the sending unit can come out without removing the entire tank , though I'm unfamiliar with your particular setup.

Yes, me and my son were definitely encouraged by the confirmation that after 2 yrs and some months... that once it fired up, it was just a matter of tuning if necessary and putting the plastics back on.

It has a CVK carb on it..I can take a pick if necessary for someone to help identify it and maybe give me an idea on what size jets to get... (ball park) to play with.

I've been perusing the old SD forum,  the ITR forum, and this one... and bookmarking things like crazy... so still working on that bookmark file with 'up to date' working non-404 links that I'll look into sharing in the forum... some are Aeolus 300 centric, but most are not... so could benefit others with links to forum posts and parts sites, etc.

Here are a few sites that I came up with recently from the forums if it might help someone 

carbjetkits.com/main-jets-99101-393-only.html

www.power-barn.com/keihin-99101-393-xxx-main-air-starter-jet-for-keihin-carburetors/

knmparts.com/Carburetor-JETS_c97.htm

250cc Air Performance Upgrade - Level 1

Installation instructions for jets on Linhai Aeolus 300
carbjetkits.com/jet-installation-on-scooter-linhai-300.html

Post about Jets


Ebay
Linhai LH300 LH 300 cc Scooter 6 Sigma Custom Carburetor Carb Stage 1-3 Jet Kit

Jetting FAQ 101


Hope someone comes along and these help sometime... I might use these sources myself.


olivertwisted
Cheese cloth, siphon and funnel will be waiting on me to pick up at the HD Pro desk shortly, today.

[olivertwisted]

Excellent! It seems that you will have it rolling very soon.
Good man, leaving the info for the next 300 owner

DEFINITELY, read this article. it seems that you wouldn't have to rejet the carb, being a CV carb.
YAY!
Carburetors and Altitude

[cloudsifter]

olivertwisted Update. Picked up the items I mentioned above.

Still going to get the old gas out- but also discovered another "make you feel stupid " mistake I made yesterday. But, hey - it's a learning experience, right?

Of course the scooter would run on starter fluid through the intake - and not with the fuel line hooked to it because if you aren't pumping fuel into the right place - the carb can't use it.

So, the first picture will be where I had it hooked to previously, and the second where it is hooked to now.

Question : what hooks to that spot?  The one at 1 o'clock from that brass cap.


And where it is NOW correctly connected I believe, because even with old gas and Pri-G it ran as noted below. 


And, now the video that may confirm the reason I had to park it two years ago -

Symptoms when I parked it: I could ride it for maybe a half a mile, and then it would just sputter to a stop as if electricity just cut off to the spark. Waiting a minute or two would allow me to restart it and continue on my journey. Then the same thing would happen only at a smaller interval. This happened over the space of two miles trying to get to and from a friend's house.

From my reading in the forums I decided it must have been a CDI problem that is known on this bike I guess, or a coil problem. Well, I changed out the coil yesterday. But I have not put the new CDI in that I got a couple of years ago because I wanted to see if I could duplicate the problem. Well, after running for several minutes here-then it abruptly died. I restarted it and then it happened again sooner, and then 2 or 3 more times again still sooner. I was smelling something burning but could not figure out what it was. So- I decided to stop restarting it. Well as you'll see in the video below he CDI started smoking. And it was hot as fire. I'm talking if you held it on your hand for a couple of seconds you would likely end up with a blister. I can only touch it for a fraction of a second.

So this may confirm what happened a couple of years ago as a problem. The only thing then was that the scooter panels were all on and everything and I did not know it was smoking or getting real hot, back then. The CDI I mean. So I have a couple of things to do but I may get the CDI that I still have in a box new, swapped out and try this cycle again, and see what happens. Does anyone know how hot the CD I should or should not get? Should it ever be hot enough to burn your hand?

Let me add that while it was idling semi okay I went ahead and screwed the air/fuel mixture adjustment screw on the side of the carburetor in until it just met resistance. Then I backed it out two and a half turns. (It was setting at 2 turns before I did this ).  Also was adjusting the idle screw and trying to get it just to where the wheel wanted to turn slightly and then backing off just a hair. It was hard to get it to exactly that point because as soon as I thought I had it the scooter would speed up or slow down on its own. I'm guessing this may be because the CDI was frying- maybe acting erratically at this point?

In the video it kind of looks like there were gaps around the edges of the CDI... that's just the way the light is...

[olivertwisted]

OH LORT! Absolutely, switch that CDI out . I'm not sure what the high operating temp is but, NOT that hot. I'd think you may have the fuel air mixture out of whack . If it wasn't doing that before, put it back to 2 turns out. If it stablizes, turn it 1/8 turns in a direction , stop and listen for the highest RPM. If one direction doesn't achieve it, put it back to 2 out and go the other direction. Mine wouldn't adjust after a cleaning and I put a new one on for $ 20 , voila. Although, it could very well indicate a vacuum leak. Get a soapy water spray bottle and spray each air or vacuum area as its running , to possibly rule it out.
If I'm right, that port on the carb is an overflow drain port that usually has a short open elbow , pointing downward.
cloudsifter

[olivertwisted]

Just to be sure, you are securing that airbox tube at the back of the carb (As in your pic) while idling and adjusting the carb, yes?
Assuming your carb is much like many GY6 scoots, this pic shows the elbow.
link
cloudsifter

[cloudsifter]

Jul 29, 2016 18:22:18 GMT -6 olivertwisted said:

OH LORT! Absolutely, switch that CDI out . I'm not sure what the high operating temp is but, NOT that hot. I'd think you may have the fuel air mixture out of whack . If it wasn't doing that before, put it back to 2 turns out. If it stablizes, turn it 1/8 turns in a direction , stop and listen for the highest RPM. If one direction doesn't achieve it, put it back to 2 out and go the other direction. Mine wouldn't adjust after a cleaning and I put a new one on for $ 20 , voila. Although, it could very well indicate a vacuum leak. Get a soapy water spray bottle and spray each air or vacuum area as its running , to possibly rule it out.
If I'm right, that port on the carb is an overflow drain port that usually has a short open elbow , pointing downward.
cloudsifter

olivertwisted
Yes, I think that CDI is fried for good now. I have the 'new' one that I bought two years ago when I was gearing up to fix it... So will stick it in tomorrow... Probably good to have another new spare on hand once this is up and running again on the road.

The airbox is not connected to the back of the carb right now, because I was squirting in starting fluid to make it run earlier in the day today and yesterday.

But the interesting thing is... the tube that connects to the back of the carb, and goes into that airbox was never airtight on mine- ever.  The glue or whatever they used was separated, so mine has always had a leak there...bigtime I'm sure. Will take a better pic of it tomorrow.  I thought about using some kind of epoxy and some clamps to reglue it so that that variable is eliminated. I'm guessing the air going into my scooter has mostly come thru that leak vs the filter... since it would be the path of least resistance.  So, in a way, I had a uni (high flow) but without the filtering...  So, New CDI and reset the mix screw to 2 turns, reglue that joint between the back of the carb and the airbox... and then will have a 'constant' situation with airflow to work with... though I'm thinking with that 'air leak' there..where the glue came undone before I got it... the scooter was running that way fine... but would be good to fix that, so filtered air is going into the scooter.


And ok, good. Now I know I'm listening for the highest idle rpm. That is what I thought I was listening for, but with the CDI acting up...things were't responding like I thought they should be.

[cloudsifter]

Jul 29, 2016 19:10:11 GMT -6 olivertwisted said:

Just to be sure, you are securing that airbox tube at the back of the carb (As in your pic) while idling and adjusting the carb, yes?
Assuming your carb is much like many GY6 scoots, this pic shows the elbow.
link
cloudsifter

No, I didn't secure that- Will try to do that when I start it again.  Looking at the pic you posted... I see the elbow there. Looks familiar like I seem to remember having one 2yrs ago... well, ok, as long as nothing that is some kind of input to the carb is missing... I guess we're good for now... though I guess would be good to get some kind of rubber tube to put on there... so it goes to the ground like the carb drain screw rubber hose. olivertwisted

[olivertwisted]

Oka, gotcha cloudsifter.

I'd consider some silicone RTV rather than an epoxy or glue. One can even find it at the dollar stores nowadays. In case you're not aware (Its not immediateely visible) that air tube has a tongue and groove fit going onto the port, to sit correctly too. Yes, a length of open ended fuel hose to route any overflow away should do, I would say.
Rotso ruck!

[cloudsifter]

Thanks. olivertwisted
Sidenote- I got that bookmark file up that I mentioned. It's in the General discussion... you may not need it, but since you were part of this thread when I mentioned it... I figured I'd tag you and anyone else I saw that was part of this thread.

James