left brake no longer engages the electric start By danny (Read 1,637 times)

[danny]

Its been working with no problems and all of the sudden when I was about to leave, the left brake handle no longer engages the electric start and does not signal the brake light but it does engage the brake. The right side works fine for everything but at the same time that happeneded, something feels stuck like the belt but I checked it and it seems OK. My battery is a bit bad but it will usually charge and last me a day but I had to kick start it and what I am experiencing now is as soon as I kick start it, it will stay on as long as I keep on full throttle but even at full throttle, the back wheel is not moving. What would be a possible cause and solution? 

Thanks

[olivertwisted]

It sounds like you may coincidentally have more than one thing happening?
#1. I would remove my CVT cover and watch while throttling, to see if my belt is slipping thus, preventing the wheel from engaging. Hopefully, not a bum clutch, in some way.
#2 Often, the brake switch at the brake handle is indicated for that scenario. I'd squirt into it with WD40 or contact cleaner to see if it will resolve. Otherwise, I'd check for a bad wiring connection throughout its circuit. You may need to purchase a new switch. They are really cheap.

[danny]

bum clutch? I think so. If I try without the cover, there is a piece that will fall loose and nothing will work

[olivertwisted]

What piece? If you are referring to the kickstart mechanism, you may need to remove it for the purpose of diagnosing why the wheel is not turning.
danny

[danny]

I cannot start the bike using the electric start, only the kick start until about friday when the new battery arrives. I just ordered one yesterday. Otherwise, the battery has been deteriorating so if I try, it will usually drain the battery pretty quickly but with the cover off and trying with the little battery power that I have, yes the front part where the clutch is near the variator part moves but the belt does not engage nor does the back wheel, like its slipping. A bum clutch was mentioned but im not familiar with what that is and also mentioned WD40 into the brake switch at the brake handle. That is new to me so I assume I must take apart the housing up top to access that, correct? If so, any other info for that that I would need to find it would be appreciated. Also, if it helps, like I said, at the same exact time that the left brake would no longer engage the electric start and brake light, something started slipping. Has anyone experienced this before?

Thanks again. I really appreciate it

[olivertwisted]

Post identifying information about your particular scooter ie; Make, Model and Engine #'s to better your chances that someone can offer help specific to your ride. Post pics and/or vids to help the forum visualize what's happening.

"I cannot start the bike using the electric start, only the kick start until about friday when the new battery arrives. I just ordered one yesterday. Otherwise, the battery has been deteriorating so if I try, it will usually drain the battery pretty quickly but with the cover off and trying with the little battery power that I have, yes the front part where the clutch is near the variator part moves but the belt does not engage nor does the back wheel, like its slipping.Ok. I would not automatically assume anything about the clutch until there is definitely enough cranking amps to the scoot but, you could use the wait time to read up on CLUTCH and CVT operation in the library and on Youtube to be prepared. It may even be that your engine is not turning strongly enough to engage a glazed belt.I'd be having a look at that belt and whether there's a dust glaze on face of the clutch pulleys.The simple, cheap and easy things that can stop operation A bum clutch was mentioned but im not familiar with what that is Lol! By "Bum clutch", I just meant a bad or defective one But again, the belt could be slipping. and also mentioned WD40 into the brake switch at the brake handle. That is new to me so I assume I must take apart the housing up top to access that, correct? You may have to but maybe not. I don't know if your instrument casing cover impedes access to it . You may be able to put a rag under the switch and use the straw on the can of WD40 to get some into the switch. Here is one example of where a picture would help. If you have the "Blade" style switch, they usually have a little drain hole on them that you get get some into. If so, any other info for that that I would need to find it would be appreciated. Also, if it helps, like I said, at the same exact time that the left brake would no longer engage the electric start and brake light, something started slipping. Has anyone experienced this before? I can't think of how these two things would be related. Perhaps, someone else may."
danny

[danny]

2014 Taotao Baccio Retro 49cc scooter. I put a brand new kevlar belt after this issue started and still the same outcome and apparently when I take out that kick start mechanism next to the variator, it will not crank the engine over. I have a feeling that its something with the clutch because something near that area sounds jammed when I am trying to accellerate and you can hear it in the video. Also, only while the kick start mechanism is in place and the cover on will it sound like its trying to crank it over. (Demonstration in video of sound without kickstart mechanism in place) Right now, I have the battery charged enough to mess with it so I was just messing with it and made a video. I also cleaned and inspected the variator assembly and tried it all again and it seems there is still something jammed and making a noise like something is jammed. 

It may even be that your engine is not turning strongly enough to engage a glazed belt. I'd be having a look at that belt and whether there's a dust glaze on face of the clutch pulleys.I've already installed a new kevlar belt after this started and I guess inspecting the clutch will be next.

[danny]

whats that sound?

[jct842]

Are you sure the brake is not on back there? If not, then you will have to take things apart to find what is bound up.

Do some reading in the library as there are quite a few tutorials and explanations of how the transmission works

[danny]

I can spin the back wheel with hand and engage the brake with lever so yes I'm sure the back wheel does not have the brake on

[danny]

[danny]

The second video at the very end you can hear the sound its making. Could that be coming from the clutch? Suggestions? Remove clutch? thanks alot

[olivertwisted]

danny
Your brake switch is usually underneath the end of the brake lever. If you cant manage to bend a wd40 straw to get in there, then yes, you will have to remove the shroud to do anything. The switch may look like this link I'd say, take the shroud off to deal with it since you're not familiar with it yet.
That sound in the first vid sounds like the starter solenoid clicking.
I don't know how your scoot is wired but, I suppose it may be that both brake levers must be held to start your scoot. If you normally have to, a bad switch on one side could prevent a start.
Mind you, that you CAN have enough battery to operate your bike while running after a kick start because you have not depended on the batteries ability to crank the starter and are also charging it as you ride. But, to crank your engine with the starter requires much higher amperage than you may have in a weak battery. That is why batteries list their "CCA", -Cold Cranking Amps.
It's hard to tel what I hear in the second video, it sounds like a whine, perhaps the clutch is not engaging correctly and friction is occurring.Again, A BUM clutch. Your rear wheel not turning is a reinforcement of that.
I'd say,deal with your brake switch first so you can see it will start(IF the solenoid is ok) and you can remove the kickstart assembly to observe what the clutch is doing.
You could hold the brake lever that works and bridge the solenoid contacts with a screwdriver, to see if the engine turns over that way. If it does, take the CVT cover off and observe and listen for where the noise is coming from and whether your clutch pulleys are freezing in position while running.
Heres a vid on the solenoid...

[danny]

No I do NOT normally have to hold both levers to start.. I can use the side that still works and it will start the bike as long as the cover and kick start mechanism are in place. Do both brake lever switches need to work in order to start the bike without the kick start mechanism?

[olivertwisted]

No.
danny