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Post by olivertwisted on Aug 1, 2016 15:53:51 GMT -6
If you can't find one to fit and really want one on there, Ive seen a few dIYs such as this... linkcloudsifter
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Post by olivertwisted on Aug 1, 2016 15:15:51 GMT -6
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Post by olivertwisted on Aug 1, 2016 15:11:10 GMT -6
Post identifying information about your particular scooter ie; Make, Model and Engine #'s to better your chances that someone can offer help specific to your ride. Post pics and/or vids to help the forum visualize what's happening. "I cannot start the bike using the electric start, only the kick start until about friday when the new battery arrives. I just ordered one yesterday. Otherwise, the battery has been deteriorating so if I try, it will usually drain the battery pretty quickly but with the cover off and trying with the little battery power that I have, yes the front part where the clutch is near the variator part moves but the belt does not engage nor does the back wheel, like its slipping. Ok. I would not automatically assume anything about the clutch until there is definitely enough cranking amps to the scoot but, you could use the wait time to read up on CLUTCH and CVT operation in the library and on Youtube to be prepared. It may even be that your engine is not turning strongly enough to engage a glazed belt.I'd be having a look at that belt and whether there's a dust glaze on face of the clutch pulleys.The simple, cheap and easy things that can stop operation A bum clutch was mentioned but im not familiar with what that is Lol! By "Bum clutch", I just meant a bad or defective one But again, the belt could be slipping. and also mentioned WD40 into the brake switch at the brake handle. That is new to me so I assume I must take apart the housing up top to access that, correct? You may have to but maybe not. I don't know if your instrument casing cover impedes access to it . You may be able to put a rag under the switch and use the straw on the can of WD40 to get some into the switch. Here is one example of where a picture would help. If you have the "Blade" style switch, they usually have a little drain hole on them that you get get some into. If so, any other info for that that I would need to find it would be appreciated. Also, if it helps, like I said, at the same exact time that the left brake would no longer engage the electric start and brake light, something started slipping. Has anyone experienced this before? I can't think of how these two things would be related. Perhaps, someone else may." danny
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Post by olivertwisted on Aug 1, 2016 14:32:10 GMT -6
I was assuming that the second one was while starting. I'm also hoping for that quick success . I've read of many failing too. don't think that I've ever read or seen vids of one smoking like that though. I reiterate, I'm don't claim expertise on anything .I just happen to be the only one here with you, lol!. Cruising the forum, looking to give back where I can as, I received much help . Likely, many failed CDIs would eventually do so , if they didn't totally fail first, prompting replacement. If it does work out (Hope-hope-hope), don't forget to order another right away so you have a backup. Always a good idea cloudsifter
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Post by olivertwisted on Aug 1, 2016 1:20:26 GMT -6
It could be a fluke but, I'd venture to say that something else that is wrong is causing the failures, unless they both were from the same supplier /Lot# ? The 3rd one should rule out or confirm it. If the 3rd one fries (OR before , lol! It's up to you, of course) , I'd be having a look at the stator ,rectifier, and always the battery. It seems plausible to me that you may be having an electrical problem before the CDI. cloudsifter
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Post by olivertwisted on Jul 31, 2016 22:12:14 GMT -6
What piece? If you are referring to the kickstart mechanism, you may need to remove it for the purpose of diagnosing why the wheel is not turning. danny
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Post by olivertwisted on Jul 31, 2016 20:55:00 GMT -6
It sounds like you may coincidentally have more than one thing happening? #1. I would remove my CVT cover and watch while throttling, to see if my belt is slipping thus, preventing the wheel from engaging. Hopefully, not a bum clutch, in some way. #2 Often, the brake switch at the brake handle is indicated for that scenario. I'd squirt into it with WD40 or contact cleaner to see if it will resolve. Otherwise, I'd check for a bad wiring connection throughout its circuit. You may need to purchase a new switch. They are really cheap.
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Post by olivertwisted on Jul 31, 2016 20:42:16 GMT -6
After testing out around her neighborhood, I rode 20 miles at top speed of 55 from my sisters today. It did just fine
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Post by olivertwisted on Jul 31, 2016 14:53:50 GMT -6
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Post by olivertwisted on Jul 31, 2016 13:48:36 GMT -6
I did the C clamp method of accessing and changing out my valve stems as one of mine was splitting, even though they were supposed to be the better ones. Each tire was initially only moved off the rim enough to get access but, one of the tires beads eventually pulled away from its bead completely on that side. My question pertains to setting the bead on the tires which is, can the beads be seated without having heard a "POP" on either of them? The bead indicator lines look good.I filled them to their 36 psi. However, I only used a 100 PSI tank compressor so not tremendous pressure there, they filled up slowly of course. I only filled the tires to proper inflation 36 psi. I did use soapy water to help guide them then, used more to watch for leaks. Everything seems ok, but have become paranoid after hearing some general stories about tires coming off the rims, yikes!
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Post by olivertwisted on Jul 30, 2016 3:25:56 GMT -6
Hi there, fields46391 . I wouldn't be much help to you on this one, as electrical problems make my head spin. If you believe that the kill switch is the problem, as opposed to the wiring or the CDI, they are very inexpensive , $5 shipped usually, for a GY6 scooter. It may be worth it to try a new one in there rather than spending the time undressing the bike, exposing wires to trace , test, and diagnose the exact problem. The kill switch could well be shorting across and grounding when it shouldn't be. Unless someone savvy comes along to teach and walk you through diagnosis, I'd say it's worth a shot to try a new one. If you do take it off before ordering one, you might as well open it up carefully (Take pics as you open it, for re assembly)to see if it just needs a cleaning or if any of the wiring connectors are touching each other. If you are unable to locate the switch for purchase, post all the identifying info for your scoot so, peeps can help you sort it out.
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Post by olivertwisted on Jul 30, 2016 1:17:38 GMT -6
Check this thread I found, you have some form of "VALVE-ITIS", lol! No but, its an excellent thread on the subject. link
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Post by olivertwisted on Jul 30, 2016 1:10:19 GMT -6
Yup! ScrappyDogScooter has done well by me too. I got the seat for my scoot for half the price ($50 for a double touring seat!), than anywhere else. AND Osa sent me verifying pics and answered Q's till I was sure it was the one for my scoot.Factory quality too. Any parts Ive gotten there have been good ones.
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Post by olivertwisted on Jul 30, 2016 1:02:00 GMT -6
Fantastically useful, cloudsifter! Thanks for the bonus
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Post by olivertwisted on Jul 29, 2016 23:29:13 GMT -6
Yes sillylittleboy , the cable also kinda signals that you are taking precautions and may have alarms set to go off underneath there if anyone gets squrrely about your bike, too. My cover is less form fitting over the bars but is fine. It too, sits a lil bit off the ground in back because of my rear rack. Looks like it can be had even cheaper in the U.S.! cover
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