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Post by olivertwisted on Feb 23, 2016 19:59:26 GMT -6
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Post by olivertwisted on Feb 23, 2016 19:45:53 GMT -6
LOL! You've taught this grasshopper well! I posted before I saw your post Will disect it and see whats going on in there. Will report back expediently
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Post by olivertwisted on Feb 23, 2016 19:44:36 GMT -6
this makes the switch itself bad ?
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Post by olivertwisted on Feb 23, 2016 19:43:09 GMT -6
Actually, no chuckles! I tried grounding that green wire at the back of the switch to the bare spot I made for the rectifier ground . A few times. What da hay ?!
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Post by olivertwisted on Feb 23, 2016 19:30:07 GMT -6
One step ahead... I just tested the green wire for continuity and it does not ground with the key on OR off, switch depressed or not, it only has continuity to the kill switch. Im gonna try the above for chuckles, right now!
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Post by olivertwisted on Feb 23, 2016 19:11:37 GMT -6
As long as I am doing procedure correctly, Ignition off, brake taped, before even pressing the start button, red/yellow probed here by the solenoid... Red/yellow probed here at the switch... Here is my reading which matches what I get when I touch the probes to each other...
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Post by olivertwisted on Feb 23, 2016 18:58:35 GMT -6
I'll check again, because I just grounded the red/yellow wire and it DID activate the solenoid so, there must be something wrong in my following directions.
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Post by olivertwisted on Feb 23, 2016 18:52:10 GMT -6
Okay, I just saw your above post. YES, the solenoid activated the starter when I jumped the contacts.
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Post by olivertwisted on Feb 23, 2016 18:49:05 GMT -6
Okay YES, with ignition key ON = both sides of green/yellow have voltage . Ignition key off = both sides of green/yellow have no voltage. I also tested with multimeter and both sides read 9.3 volts.
Both , Key off OR on, The red /yellow wire at the back of the start button reads continuous to both sides of the red/yellow at the solenoid BEFORE I even press the start switch.
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Post by olivertwisted on Feb 23, 2016 18:27:54 GMT -6
No apology necessary, other than that we weren't there to partake! Okay, will do the above and report back. I did find the CDI buried under the wiring cluster. The black/white wire is there, CHECK!
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Post by olivertwisted on Feb 23, 2016 18:06:18 GMT -6
Ok. Still troubleshooting though. When I try at the start switch, I still get nada. Gonna read this thread again and see if the answer is there. One of the switches is bad, I suspect?
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Post by olivertwisted on Feb 23, 2016 17:21:44 GMT -6
YUP! LOL! I failed to even SEE the spark plug wire coming out of the bottom of that coil! I bent under the frame and there it is! Lol!
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Post by olivertwisted on Feb 23, 2016 17:20:09 GMT -6
WOO HOOOOOOOOOOOOOOO!!!! Everything was routed correctly as you instructed, Alleyoop . I cleaned up the surfaces and contacts and tried again and CONTACT! Had you not guided me through confirming how everything should be routed, I would never have suspected a bad ground and would still be perplexed. YOU da MAN !!!! I say, YOU da MAN !!!!
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Post by olivertwisted on Feb 23, 2016 16:09:01 GMT -6
I DO have one of those! Good idea, I'll dig it out !
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Post by olivertwisted on Feb 23, 2016 16:07:38 GMT -6
Ha! rosiemoto , Don't sell yourself too short here Rosie. It can get quite "Dipsy" where I sit! Alleyoop , I'll be checking over all of that , right away and post back. Initially, I can tell you that the black and white wire IS on this switch and it is the one that I was operating as the "Kill" switch. The SWIVEL switch which, was once red, operates effectively as the hazard lights. The black and white wire does reappear here, at what I believe to be the CDI ? Another thing that has crossed my mind, aside from the things you've listed that I will look into is that the "Rust converter" that I used on the frame may possibly have created too much of a barrier for ground to occur at the rectifier mount point, where it grounds to the frame? That is also where the battery ground ends and the frame to valve cover ground begins (You may recall that, when I was disassembling my fan cover months ago, one of its bolts that had a ground to it, had broken off. So at that point you had guided me to route that ground to the valve cover so, it's already there. So, the battery ground goes to the rectifier mount THEN to the valve cover). There is also a GREEN wire at that rectifier mount point and I'm unsure what it leads to (It goes into the large harness, headed to the front of the bike and I don't see where it surfaces). I figure, it's worth taking a wire wheel to the frame under the rectifier to expose that surface better and perhaps put a very light film of dielectric grease there.
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