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Yes, the bike will turn over without the brakes being applied.

I checked both the pair of yellow/green wires and the pair of black wires coming out of the brake switches and both pairs show nearly 12 (11.26 and 11.62) volts with the ignition on, and the brakes NOT being applied.

I then pulled the brake switches from both brakes, and when I turn on the ignition and manually depress both brake switches, the brake lights go out, and the starter will not work. This seems the opposite what what should happen, correct?

I checked continuity again. My yellow/green pair (one from each brake lever) merges into a single yellow/green, which runs to (a) a molex connector, which connects it another yellow green wire that runs (b) to the starter relay. Oddly, I get continuity in the yellow/green from the where it merges at the brake switches to a (a), but no continuity from (b) to the starter relay. ?

Finally, with the ignition on and the brakes NOT applied (but both brake lights on), I checked the starter relay: where the yellow/green connects to the starter relay I get nothing, but I read over 12 volts at the other side of the relay (where the red/yellow wire connects). This puzzled me, as I would have thought that if I am reading nearly twelve volts from the yellow/green at the brake switches, shouldn't I read that on the yellow/green side of the starter relay?

When I pull fuse 2 (connecting black and red/blue -- the emergency flashers) no change. When I pull the fuse 3 (black and red/green), brake lights go out and bike will not turn over.

Does this still sound like two bad brake switches to you?

Oops -- the wires going to the starter relay are red/yellow and RED, not green as previously posted.

Too many late nights...sorry.

Okay, wired it all up and tried to start it.

First, lights came on, turn signals worked, but no brake lights (or at least no additional lights came on when I squeezed either brake handle).

Bike turned over but never caught...but then I saw coolant leaking and stopped to locate problem. Hard to see here, but here's a photo of where it seemed to leak (this is about 3 hours after I stopped cranking...)



Is the reddish-brown liquid what coolant looks like when it dries? It's Prestone 50/50; I completely flushed the system and added it about on week ago.

Also -- ugh -- the leaking appears to be from the head gasket. Would a bad head gasket cause a coolant leak, or should I be looking elsewhere? Look closely at where the cylinder head and cylinder meet -- should they . Also, looking along that edge, you can see where the gasket is pulling away...again, would a bad gasket here cause coolant to leak?

Cruiser, in response to your questions, yes I have a blocking diode. And the wire colors to the starter relay are red/yellow and green. Of the four fuses in the original fuse box, on three of them one side was black. I've replicated that as well, so the pink, red/green, and blue/red all pair with a black wire, and all the blacks are soldered together about 6 inches after leaving the fuse box. The final fuse has the two yellow wires, one of which leads back to the R/R.

I decided to pick up a fuse block and will mount it next to the battery.

A few more items to report...

The two wires that connect to the radiator fan are pink and orange/white; the two wires that connect to the thermoswitch at the base of the radiator are green and orange/white.

There is continuity between the cut pink wire and the pink wire at the fan. There is also continuity between the orange/white wire at the fan and the thermoswitch.

This suggests the following. Look at the wiring diagram below, which I am finding is very close to mine:




There is a wire that runs from the right side of the thermoswitch to the right side of the fan whose color is not identified (though the 250T Jonway diagram found here i905.photobucket.com/albums/ac258/bashan_2010/DIAGRAMS/Jonway_250T-2-1.jpg has the wire as pink. Now I have a pink wire, but mine does run between my fan and thermoswitch. I believe on my scoot, the orange/white wire is the wire that connects the thermoswitch and the fan (again, because I have continuity between where the O/W connects at the fan and at the thermoswitch. And there is NO continuity between the cut pink and the O/W wire.)

If so, then (going back to the wiring diagram above) there should be a fuse on other wire coming out of the thermoswitch (a green wire in my case). Is that correct?

I have checked the Lance Duke wiring diagram, and while the wire colors are different, it also shows one wire running between the fan and the thermoswitch, and a second wire running from the thermoswitch that is also fused. (On the Lance diagram, it is fused at the fusebox at the top of the page).

Here's my problem -- if I connect my fuse box to the cut pink wire (so the fuse has a pink in one side, and a black on the other), I'll have a fuse on the fan, but not the thermoswitch. Would that be okay instead? I can see no way to fuse the green wire, short of cutting into it.

Also, the cut blue/red wire goes the the emergency flasher. On the Lance diagram, the flasher has a white/red, green and gray, and the white/red runs to the fuse box. On my bike, the flasher has blue/red, green, and gray. Again, using the Lance diagram, that suggests I connect a third fuse as follows -- blue/red on one side of the fuse, black on the other. I imagine this connects to what the fusebox calls the "Horn, Meter, Winker reply"?

I am still puzzled by the two yellows -- I have a plethora of yellow wires coming from the instrument panel, most of which seem to come from dash lights (at least four lights have yellow and green wires coming out the back).

Thanks again...

I checked the cut black wire, and it reads 12.73 volts (same reading I get from the battery).

No voltage from blue/red. Checked blue/red for resistance – reads upper 20s, with no change when squeezing brake handles.

I have removed the front cowling, and the cover in back of handlebars to expose wiring. From each brake lever, two wires emerge – one yellow/green and one black.

The two yellow greens merge into one yellow/green. The rear brakelights both have yellow/green wires running to them. (I still cannot get any of the rear lights to work.) Using the multimeter, I tested the yellow/green wire for continuity throughout the bike – from where the two y/g wires merge together behind the speedometer all the way to the two taillight bulbs, and the wire appears fine (it beeps loud and clear).

Now the two blacks coming out of the brake levers merge and become one red\green. Since one of my cut wires is a red/green wire, I tested it for voltage – only reads 5 millivolts. I also tested for resistance – reads around 35, with no change when brake handles are squeezed.

What does this tell you?

Okay, bear with me on this...don't know much about how electrics work on a bike.

I cannot find any more fuses on the bike (outside of the fuse from the starter to the battery). I have a fuse box that was in the box of parts that came with the bike, a fuse box with 4 fuses (8 wires) that terminates in a six pin molex connector, a connector whose mate is NOT anywhere on the bike.

Now I also have six cut wires, but the colors of the six wires do not match colors of the six wires on the molex connector.

Here is a drawing of the fuse box, using the fuse labels from the inside cover of the fuse box, and the wire colors coming out either side of them:



As you can see, there is a "brake switch" fuse here, with a black and red/blue wire coming off either side of the fuse. It is also the case that one of my cut wires is black, and in your last message you noted that a black wire should go to the brake fuse.

If I crimp a blade connector on my cut black wire and connect it to the corresponding black wire on the molex connector, current will flow through the black wire, across the fuse, out the red/blue wire, and then have nowhere to go...?

I don't even know if the cut black wire is carrying any electricity...how can I set up the multimeter to check this, or is this not the correct way to proceed?

Here is the six pin molex connector at the other end of the fuse box :



Thanks again...

No -- no brake lights.

A correction -- where the main harness splits, there are five bundles; the three that are connected to go to the radiator fan, the coil, and the thermo switch at the base of the radiator.

Found an earlier post in another thread by JR where he says:



So the black/white and green are a kill switch...that connect to what? I have read of some scoots with a kill switch connected to the side stand, making it impossible to start the scoot with the stand down, but there is no connection there I can see. I do have a black/white going to the CDI.