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Okay, I think I need to be directed to a tutorial (if one exists) on:

(1) vacuum fuel petcocks
(2) vacuum fuel pumps, and,

...whether using a vacuum fuel pump means you don't need to use vacuum petcock, or if they are separate beasts such that using a vacuum petcock (or any petcock) is necessary no matter if one uses a vacuum fuel pump or not.

I ask because searching through the infamous "Box O'Parts" I got with this scoot, I found the folllowing:



...which is constantly referred to online as a fuel pump, although it has the same marked connections as a vacuum fuel petcock (i.e. vacuum line connection, fuel inlet, fuel outlet).

Further searching lead me to the following discussion on ScootDawg (http://scootdawg.proboards.com/index.cgi?board=talk&action=display&thread=31209) in which the content of the single post shown there is reprinted below:



So if the above is correct, you need a petcock, and if you want to add a fuel pump, that won't mitigate the need for a petcock.

Is that correct?

Okay, a hectic weekend, but here's the latest...

Battery arrived, added electrolyte, charged up fine (12.92 on new multimeter). Starter motor wasn't included in shipment(!), but should hear from vendor today.

Tested green wire in several places using new MM -- I did get resistance, but no clear reading (MM is autoranging, so it tends to take a while to settle down). A few questions:

(1) Am I correct that the best place to "ground" the black lead is on an unpainted part of the frame? Painted surfaces often less stable readings...finally used the interior threads of a nut welded to the frame (largely paint-free) and consistently got a resistance reading, but no consistent reading (i.e. always showed resistance, but it continually climbed up and down (10.0 to 0.1, and almost every increment in-between).

(2) I have a dead battery that came with the scoot (reads less than one volt on the MM), and when I used it to "ground" the black lead on the MM I got no reading at all. Of course, when I used the battery, it was not attached to the scoot at all...would that make it an ineffective ground?

(3) Am going to follow Big Guy's scooter pdi (http://x1scooters.com/pdi.html) as much as possible while my scooter is largely disassembled, and yesterday removed the cheap battery fuse and soldered a blade fuse holder in its place. Can't tell amperage on fuse -- should I insert a 10, 15, or 20 amp fuse?

(4) A final oddity -- when I received scoot, owner gave me a box of parts that he swore contained everything. Unfortunately, a number of parts were included that don't appear to belong (extra carb, etc.). A vacuum fuel pump was included -- here's a pic:



...but I can find no hole on the frame that it appears to attach to. It's possible the gas line never had one attached...or is it? A final pic with some numbered areas of interest...



#1 shows the fuel filter...following the gas line to the left of the filter, it connects to the carb, but the other end just terminates, and if I replace the seat insert with the gas tank, that line barely reaches the tank nipple. Now most of what I've seen on the board (and the nifty GY6 video video here - chinesescooterreference.com/pdi.htm suggests that if a vacuum pump had originally been present, it would (should?) have been located between the fuel filter and the carb. As I am going to replace all these fuel lines, my questions are these:

(1) Should I install this vacuum pump?

(2) If so, does its height matter, relative to the carb inlet (i.e. with a gravity feed, clearly the tank needs to be higher than that carb, but if I install the vacuum pump, can it be either at the same height as or a shade lower than that inlet to the carb?)

(3) Does the orientation of the fuel pump matter? (Is orienting it flat -- like a flying saucer -- better, worse, or immaterial? Vacuum feed on top or bottom?)

Finally, while I have you all here, #2 shows the only unconnected vacuum hose I have, which I believe connects to #3 (which goes to the charcoal cannister for the PCV)..... in reply #13, to get an extra vacuum feed to run the fuel pump. (This appears to be for a linhai engine, so I'll need to make adjustments). Is that correct?

Thanks again...

Name says it all -- I am chair of the philosophy department at a small liberal arts college...but don't hold it against me, okay?

The latest update...

(1) I am now convinced that with the board's help, I can get this bad boy up and running. So I ordered a multimeter today, and am researching batteries as mine is dead (local scoot shop -- very unhelpful -- did test it and confirm it's done). Advice on a battery? Came with a GTX7A-BS, but as this bike appears to have parts from everywhere, that means little. Since most 250s have a 12 volt 9AH, that's what I'll look for, but any advice on brands would be appreciated.

(2) Further examination reveals that the plastic seat insert (battery holder, gas tank, etc.) has a tag that claims this is a 2008 Jonway YY250T-2. (But the Jonway 250T wiring diagram in the tech section doesn't appear to fit this bike, as I have a fuse box and none is listed there). Still, using that as a reference, that means I should look for a 12 Volt 9 amp battery, that is no taller than 5" (compartment won't appear to handle much more).

(3) Since the scoot is apart right now, I will (a) replace all the vacuum hoses with sturdier, 5/32nds ID vacuum tubing (current tubes look flimsy and aged), replace all wire clips with hose clamps, and replace the fuel lines with 1/4in ID mesh re-inforced fuel lines. Seems like cheap insurance to me. Again, if this foolish stop me now...

(4) I will wait to get this thing running before looking at swapping out roller weights, changing incandescents for LEDs, etc. Really, mechanical stuff doesn't faze me - I'm no whiz, but I'm patient and thorough, and that often is all one needs. But electrical really frazzles me, so I am grateful for all your help.

I have confidence! I have inspiration!

I think...

SO sorry for my errors/omissions, of which there are one of each:

(1) Of the six cut wires, the one I left out is BLACK. The amended list of cut wires

Yellow
Yellow
Blue/Green
Blue/Red
Black
Pink

(2) (Because I tried to use HTML tables, and screwed them up) the six wires attached to the connector from the fuse box are:

black
brown
brown/blue
light blue/white
blue red
yellow

(Don't know the protocol, but from now on, "blue" will mean a darker blue, and lighter shades will be "light blue")

And my battery is dead, so I'll have to order one to do any testing.

You are all lifesavers...

I'm heading home, so I'll check the radiator wiring and get back to you.

CDI:

Black
Black/white
Red/white
Green
Black/yellow

So it is just as you said, except instead of gray/white I have black/white. And a similar substitution occurs on the nine pin connector with eight wires:

red
black
light blue
orange
red/yellow
black/white
brown/white
green

...no gray/white here either.

And finally, the cut wires:

Yellow
Yellow
Black/Red
Red/Green
Pink

(Sorry about the question mark after pink...as I looked over the Lance duke wiring diagram, I could not find any "Pink" in the legend. But it is clearly pink.)

Finally, a picture and a question:



What is this? I don't think they were connected when I got the bike, but (again) the connectors and tabs fit perfectly. But I am bothered by what appears to be a "switching" of the red wire (i.e. rather than connecting red-to-red, it appears to connect red-to-black, which sets off alarm bells for me. I have not examined the connector to see if it crossconnects (such that a red going in the bottom is connected to the red coming out the top) but since that seems to go against any connector I've seen in the past, I am skeptical.

Again, many thanks...

Okay, first update....

Fuse box has eight wires coming off the base of the box:


These eight wires terminate in a six blade molex connector -- the three Blacks all join together, leaving:




The cut wires are:

Yellow
Yellow
Blue/Green
Blue/Red
Black
Pink (really)

I am poring over the Lance Duke diagram right now, and while the "Disaster Box" their shows three 10 amp fuses, my box has four. Again, my box is EXACTLY like the one Cruiser has:



...with the exact same label on the inside. So combining the label and wire colors, I have (tentatively) this:



Any idea which "Light" the label refers to?

Thanks again...