Clinician
Currently Offline
Posts: 24
Likes: 0
Joined: Mar 22, 2011 22:22:50 GMT -6
|
Post by godfeast on Jul 19, 2012 13:49:36 GMT -6
|
|
Clinician
Currently Offline
Posts: 24
Likes: 0
Joined: Mar 22, 2011 22:22:50 GMT -6
|
Post by godfeast on Jul 19, 2012 11:43:35 GMT -6
bought a standard 1/4" x 4" bolt and it worked like a charm guys.
THANKS!
|
|
Clinician
Currently Offline
Posts: 24
Likes: 0
Joined: Mar 22, 2011 22:22:50 GMT -6
|
Post by godfeast on Jul 18, 2012 22:06:40 GMT -6
drilling and tapping would require a complete tear down, which I just dont have time for now.
I think I might try the next size up on a standard bolt.
Thanks for the suggestions guys.
|
|
Clinician
Currently Offline
Posts: 24
Likes: 0
Joined: Mar 22, 2011 22:22:50 GMT -6
|
Post by godfeast on Jul 18, 2012 17:38:53 GMT -6
I recently decided to tear apart and half-rebuild my dead 150cc sunl longbo. During the changeover on the oil pump, I stripped out the hole for one of the crankcase bolts (stuck a longer one in by mistake) holding the right side cover on - sits above and to the right of the oil pump channel to the piston. Has anyone else ever screwed this up and know what I can expect if I just torque down the remaining bolts? I'm Thinking the bolt below and the one holding down the stator wiring might make up for the missing bolt with a little extra force (hopefully not enough to strip). It's in a worst case scenario as far as position is concerned and having to change out everything to replace the left side case is just a disaster for me.
|
|
Clinician
Currently Offline
Posts: 24
Likes: 0
Joined: Mar 22, 2011 22:22:50 GMT -6
|
Post by godfeast on Jul 12, 2012 12:58:56 GMT -6
and sprocket, thanks as always. I dont have a grinder, but it might be easier and more useful to buy one of those than a tool ill use one or twice in my lifetime.
|
|
Clinician
Currently Offline
Posts: 24
Likes: 0
Joined: Mar 22, 2011 22:22:50 GMT -6
|
Post by godfeast on Jul 12, 2012 12:57:54 GMT -6
I had given up on this, but now im back with a vengence and stuck here again:
its the nut behind the casing thats behind the stator. Need to remove it to access the chain holding the oil pump on.
I need to remove this damn thing, and using a chisel isnt working. I already broke the fan on the variator trying to rig a tool on it to prevent the nut moving on the other side.
Helpful ideas needed.
|
|
Clinician
Currently Offline
Posts: 24
Likes: 0
Joined: Mar 22, 2011 22:22:50 GMT -6
|
Post by godfeast on Jun 30, 2012 23:45:39 GMT -6
Has anyone taken it off without a special tool?
|
|
Clinician
Currently Offline
Posts: 24
Likes: 0
Joined: Mar 22, 2011 22:22:50 GMT -6
|
Post by godfeast on Jun 30, 2012 17:10:25 GMT -6
Ive seen some instructional utubes and pdf's on the process of changing an oil pump on a gy6 150cc, but I also see that it uses a special tool to access the pump.
Has anyone rigged up a homemade tool or used a common mechanics tool to open the gy6 side up or is it absolutely necessary to use the specialized one?
|
|
Clinician
Currently Offline
Posts: 24
Likes: 0
Joined: Mar 22, 2011 22:22:50 GMT -6
|
Post by godfeast on Apr 30, 2012 11:51:21 GMT -6
I tried and the scooter wouldnt even turn over with the new regulator in.
I was always worried that this was setup as a dc engine when I received it, so I may still be dealing with that.
I tried to ride the bike with the older burned out regulator in (mistake) because it fired up and I took the headlight harness off. I got maybe 20 minutes out and the bike shutdown and wouldnt start up ( sounded like a dead battery and kickstart wouldnt work either). The battery had been fully charged.
Im just digging in deeper atm...
|
|
Clinician
Currently Offline
Posts: 24
Likes: 0
Joined: Mar 22, 2011 22:22:50 GMT -6
|
Post by godfeast on Apr 29, 2012 10:59:54 GMT -6
Time is a serious issue atm, or I'd just buy another 6 pole with a 4 pin regulator and be done with it myself. This is my only ride to work and my backs up against the wall to get it running. The basic scenario is the engine in it currently came from ebay last year with the 5 pin regulator and because of the regulator issue, I swapped my old 6 pole into it and that stator has recently died, leaving me to reinstall the 8 pole and quickly receive a freshly burned out 4 pin regulator and blown headlight bulbs ( forgot about the regulator issue when I swapped it back in). I tested 50 volts coming across the headlights at mid wot. I need to make this 8 pole + 5 pin regulator work asap or risk losing my job and all the things that go with that; Not fun. Now, when you say serious wire stripping, do you mean I'm going to melt the headlight harness out? If so, does that indicate a need to rewire with a heavier gauge wiring or would that just cause other issues? I have the tools and just enough knowledge of electronics to make the worst of a situation like this.
|
|
Clinician
Currently Offline
Posts: 24
Likes: 0
Joined: Mar 22, 2011 22:22:50 GMT -6
|
Post by godfeast on Apr 28, 2012 19:51:14 GMT -6
Is the black a power lead or a ground? what does it normally hook up to on a system with an 8 pole stator? My new 8 pole stator came with a 5 pin rectifier/voltage regulator where as my old 6 pole one had a stock 4 pin regulator. I attempted to use the old 4 pin and blew out the headlights, so i need to convert.
|
|
Clinician
Currently Offline
Posts: 24
Likes: 0
Joined: Mar 22, 2011 22:22:50 GMT -6
|
Post by godfeast on Mar 29, 2011 2:13:29 GMT -6
Just as the title says:
I Have a Longbo/adventure with stock 13" wheels, and I'm wondering if the larger 16" wheels that I've seen on some higher end 150cc scooters would fit my gy6 long case or if they require a special engine/extension?
|
|
Clinician
Currently Offline
Posts: 24
Likes: 0
Joined: Mar 22, 2011 22:22:50 GMT -6
|
Post by godfeast on Mar 26, 2011 2:27:56 GMT -6
BTW, still looking for a definite answer as to what changes on a 125cc to make it a 150cc.
Is it really just the top end and with 125cc's having to be re-bored to accept a 150cc sleeve?
|
|
Clinician
Currently Offline
Posts: 24
Likes: 0
Joined: Mar 22, 2011 22:22:50 GMT -6
|
Post by godfeast on Mar 26, 2011 2:01:52 GMT -6
I have rebuilt a top end on the previous engine, so its not like I'm unfamiliar with the procedure to take a head off.
I just have a need to know if what i bought is what I got.
i was worried about the valves because I know that new engine's frequently need them adjusted as they loosen up after they get heated the first few rides; is this not the experience you have had with gy6's?
|
|
Clinician
Currently Offline
Posts: 24
Likes: 0
Joined: Mar 22, 2011 22:22:50 GMT -6
|
Post by godfeast on Mar 25, 2011 13:02:22 GMT -6
gasket in question was the head gasket - I dont have a spare. I usually replace the valve cover gasket with rtv since I don't like that garbage strip they put on them.
I may go ahead and move the throttle needle back down then; wasn't sure how rich I needed to make it since it obviously wasnt running correct with the uni on and being new. I did adjust the air mix screw until it sounded right - est about 3-3.5 turns from completely in; sounded pretty good though.
The engine should be right around 115 miles after tonight's commute.
I can wait on valve adjustment; at about what point do you feel would be appropriate though?
I have read several different ideas on what mileage ends the "break in" period.
Monday the miles should be at or around 250ish and by next weekend it should be well over 500.
|
|