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Post by we350z on Oct 14, 2010 15:02:26 GMT -6
Looks that way since you got the placard with the magical word "California". Looks exactly like mine (JCL MP 250A). Nice scoot! I have the Black/Silver model :-)
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Cargo Box
by: we350z - Aug 13, 2010 18:30:06 GMT -6
Post by we350z on Aug 13, 2010 18:30:06 GMT -6
got it - i'll make it work, I always do :-) Sometimes I think I should just be a master fabricator.
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Cargo Box
by: we350z - Aug 13, 2010 13:34:38 GMT -6
Post by we350z on Aug 13, 2010 13:34:38 GMT -6
Well mine just straight up don't line up no matter how i orient it not to mention they gave me an assortment of bolts that is nothing like what the manual says i should have. It's close but not lining up, if I just chamfer one of the holes a little I should be ok. mine was already attached but if ur talking about the 4 screws to hold on trunk bracket mine are a little crooked! but it aint going nowhere the screws are so long thought about replacing with some shorter ones when I take it apart to rustolium paint it and the kick stand and center and any other spot I might find cause there paint rusted quick! |
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Cargo Box
by: we350z - Aug 12, 2010 19:05:49 GMT -6
Post by we350z on Aug 12, 2010 19:05:49 GMT -6
So now that I finally completed my PDI and I have all the plastics mounted back up I went to go install my cargo box only to find:
1) I must be missing some nuts and bolts for the metal frame thing that sits on the rubber pieces. I will have to try and get some from Home Depot or something.
2) The holes on the metal frame thing don't line up exactly so I will need to bore it down a little with the drill or a metal file.
Did anyone else have this experience or am I just lucky here?
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Post by we350z on Jul 15, 2010 0:26:50 GMT -6
Yeah - he just gave me a new one with the sealed acid packs and everything. I have a feeling this will happen again since the battery is slightly tilted. I might see if i can get the battery to sit flat(ter) with some shims. Hopefully I can still get the seat to clear it. From what I have been told, in order to ship batteries, they must be dry. and the end-user fills the acid with the acid pack and the top cap seals the battery and never needs removing again. Thus calling it maintenance free and sealed. Of course it has to be charged after filling with acid. |
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Post by we350z on Jul 9, 2010 15:23:44 GMT -6
In from rear of what? The big pre-cut hole there? Doesn't the sundries box go there tho? Do I still need to remove that along with the seat but NOT the plastics? Here is what I have done:  Have you taken the battery cover off yet? Two screws hold it on at the rear. Lift and separate, cross over to a better figure. See the carb? All those hoses? The valve cover? Radiator cap? Wiith the valve cover off, you can get your feeler guage and your wrenches in from the rear. You prolly won't even need to adjust it, just check to make sure it's at .004 with the feeler guage. If it goes in the gap, and don't flop around, yer in like Flynn. You're gonna love the exhaust valve, when you're upside down. That's the one that will be closed up. |
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Post by we350z on Jul 9, 2010 12:58:34 GMT -6
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Post by we350z on Jul 7, 2010 12:02:42 GMT -6
So it's an either or. I just don't get how you could do the job without cutting out the middle of the battery compartment. Don't you need to reach your hand down there to use the valve measuring tool and to loosen/tighten the valve to the right spec with a box wrench? How on earth could you do that with only the two holes cutout for the socket extension? Confused.... Pick a spot above the valve cover bolts and cut a hole big enough to stick a scocket on an extension down onto the bolt. One on the left, and one on the right. Or cut the middle out of the battery compartment. You'll need a swivel on the socket. |
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Post by we350z on Jul 7, 2010 1:35:30 GMT -6
Is that normal? I wouldn't think so. It's a Yuasa YTX9-BS that the scooter mechanics replaced my dead stock China battery (Tewe 6MF8). Noticed it as I was removing the plastic seat frame (for battery box cut-out). Thought it might somehow be water until I poured it on the concrete and watched it sizzle. If this ain't right I'm going to get my money back. I've heard Yuwasa are good batteries?!
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Post by we350z on Jul 7, 2010 1:31:12 GMT -6
Question - as I am preparing to do this right now. Do I need to do anything other than cut the rectangular hole in the battery box? You mentioned boring holes? Which ones?? Where?
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Post by we350z on Jun 24, 2010 16:48:25 GMT -6
I hear about people cutting out the battery box bottom of the plastic seat frame so they don't need to remove the plastics to do the carb valve adjustment job. Is there a write-up on this somewhere? Or could someone please explain? How does the battery get held in place without falling through the floor after this? Another thing I would like to do before putting my scoot back together as I would imagine it's much easier to do it now.
--Thanks
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Post by we350z on May 10, 2010 0:23:09 GMT -6
Coolant has been drained. Only about 800ml came out manual says system holds 1.4l. I opened the metal fill cap and removed the plastic bung (next to fuel tank fill hole). I rocked the bike back and forth until nothing more came out. There was some rusty crap that came out as well. I think I should probably pour in some water and drain it again.  |
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Post by we350z on May 3, 2010 21:07:47 GMT -6
Thanks once again!!!! I **thought that might be it but wasn't 100% sure. I did look at the manual too - was hard to tell from the pic.
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Post by we350z on May 3, 2010 19:57:33 GMT -6
Where do I drain the coolant from? I was expecting to see something under the left side plastic fairing I removed from under the foot rest...
Anyone have a pic?
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