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Post by we350z on Jan 18, 2011 14:36:40 GMT -6
Didn't really think about that but I will keep an eye on it. I think I am going to order the HID kit soon tho. Yeah it's interesting; noticed that awhile back but never thought of doing what you did. Regular low-beams seems to use 1 of the 2 filaments in the bulb, 'hi-beams' switches to the other filament, the one closer to the inside of the bulb, effectively making the lights shoot a little higher. Hitting the 'pass' button makes both filaments light-up at the same time. I think that's why these bulbs are labeled as '25/25' '35/35' or '45/45' - hi and low beams are the same wattage, but on a different filament in the bulb. Holding down that button I guess would then double the wattage the bulb is consuming? Any worries about it getting too hot and damaging the plastic headlight lenses? |
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Post by we350z on Jan 18, 2011 2:00:59 GMT -6
So I was able to fix the marker switch. There are just two Phillips head screws to take the plastic housing off. The screw was definitely loose. I tightened it up but found out I have another problem. Seems the switch would get stuck on left and I wouldn't be able to cancel the signal. Upon closer inspection it looks like the sharp metal edge of the turn assembly was getting stuck on the spring. So I rounded off the edge on some concrete and it seems to be working better now. Still not perfect like it was originally but at least usable now. It tends to stick on both ends now but at least I can move it back to the middle manually and cancel the signal. I put some locktite on the little screw and secured it tightly then re-greased the rocker so I should be good for a while. we350z, the turn signal switch has a small screw inside that will loosen up over time. When the screw becomes lose it causes the "button" to bind so you push harder etc....Unhook your battery then carefully take the switch housing apart. It has been a couple of years since I had mine off so I don't remember exactly all the details but...The switch housing, after removing the two screw, will need to be carefully pried apart. Be careful there is a ball bearing, maybe a couple of springs and contacts that may become dislodged. You can gently push the turn signal "button" while watching the action to really see what is happening. The screw needs to be removed while holding all part in position and a small drop off loctite put onto the threads (do not get loctite on any sliding parts, only the threads of the screw. Too little is better than too much!) and screwed back in. Do not tighten the screw down real tight because the "button" will not slide properly when pushed in. You must tighten only enough to snug down the screw while not hampering the sliding, in and out action, of the turn signal button. Good luck! Hope this reply might help a little bit. Also more than likely the Honda turn signal switch will fit yours. |
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Post by we350z on Jan 18, 2011 1:55:01 GMT -6
I noticed that on my JCL MP250a - holding down the bright flasher switch (even with the brights selected) makes the headlights a little bit brighter. To me there is a noticeable difference in brightness. So I have wedged something in there and taped it down so that the switch is always on.
I plan to upgrade to the HID kit eventually and LED driving lights but for now I am happy just to get a little bit more visibility.
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Post by we350z on Dec 8, 2010 16:43:21 GMT -6
Thanks man!
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Post by we350z on Dec 8, 2010 13:58:34 GMT -6
So I finally found out how my JCL250 fared in the rain. Not too bad actually. It sat outside in the rain all night at my girlfriends house and then I rode it home this morning as it really started to come down. It performed quite well in the wet though I was pretty miserable. The seat wiped right off and didn't become saturated so no wet arse. Of course the already crap sandwich brakes were even worse once the rotors and pads got wet but still OK.
The instrument cluster was pretty well protected and kept dry by the windshield. I was impressed actually with this.
What doesn't seem so good is the switches on the handle grips. Especially the turn signal. It seems to be hard to engage now in either direction and sticks worse then ever. It seems loose or something - is there a way to tighten it up? I am concerned that it might be damaged or become damaged more easily now in the future. Can I replace it with the Honda one?
Otherwise I dried the scoot off really well when I got home - it cleaned up really nice. I guess this was a good opportunity to get all the dust off of it and give it a nice cleaning. I am really glad I siliconed all those screws up real tight now and painted the nicks on the frame! Hopeful rust doesn't start forming anywhere!
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Post by we350z on Oct 27, 2010 16:48:00 GMT -6
I would like a secure solution that is removable should i need to perform maintenance or when I do HID/driving light upgrade.
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Post by we350z on Oct 27, 2010 12:17:06 GMT -6
Is this a generic solution or specific for a MP250A? What scoot do you have? Is it a permanent change? I'm going to take it apart again and see if I can get a little creative.
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Post by we350z on Oct 26, 2010 16:48:05 GMT -6
But which screws do I remove and how does the front part actually pull off? For instance does the dash need to come apart to get to it or anything? I guess I will have to figure it out but any tips? I want to do this anyway to silicon each screw. But if I'm gonna do it might as well get everything done at once.
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Post by we350z on Oct 25, 2010 18:07:15 GMT -6
How does one take down the front plastics to access the driving lights? Is this really involved? If it's a total bitch I'm going to wait until i do the HID kit...
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Post by we350z on Oct 25, 2010 15:47:43 GMT -6
not a bad idea. With the extension on, mine tends to vibrate at higher speeds. I took a piece of packing foam, cut a strip and have it wedged between the windshield and the top of the dashboard. Definitely helps. |
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Post by we350z on Oct 25, 2010 13:28:48 GMT -6
Well considering it's brand new i doubt it. I'm going to take it apart again and see. I remember the screws not tightening very well, like the screw holes were stripped or something. Should be no play at all. Maybe you could double up on the washers. The originals may be compressed from age. |
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Post by we350z on Oct 22, 2010 23:58:29 GMT -6
I know there are rubber bushings around the screws but the screws don't seem to go in so tight and the windshield definately has some play in it, especially near the top. It's pretty evident when I grab it since it moves around a little. It doesn't really rattle per say but it does make some noise with the vibration from the engine especially at lower rpms. I think the silicon or caulk would tighten it up a bit.... I'm less concerned about the rain (especially since i don't really ride it in the rain) and more annoyed with the sound. I siliconed all the connectors in the engine bay but I haven't torn down the front so I any wiring gangs in there are not protected with silicon.
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Post by we350z on Oct 22, 2010 17:23:00 GMT -6
I want to seal the window on my JCL MP250A scooter for two reasons:
1) Create rain weather resistant seal (water leaking into dash would be bad)
2) It rattles like a mofo and bugs the crap out of me.
I have a new tube of acrylic latex white caulk. Is this good? I have some clear silicon for visible areas.
Wondering if I should take this opportunity to reach the driving/running lights so I don't have to re-seal later....
Thoughts?
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Post by we350z on Oct 15, 2010 18:08:39 GMT -6
Yeah I was very worried about mine and it was fine. Manufactured 12/07 - what year is yours?
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Post by we350z on Oct 14, 2010 16:14:26 GMT -6
I think I have one that is hoseless as well and my scoot runs great. I did do the vacline reroute for max pressure at the pump per JRR's suggestion. I have nothing to compare this to though as I did this before ever riding it.
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Yeah it's interesting; noticed that awhile back but never thought of doing what you did.
