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Post by rapidrob on May 2, 2017 11:39:59 GMT -6
The Styrofoam battery/ignition coil holder in my bike is kaput.( 31505-147-020 HOLDER, BATTERY ) the ones I've seen for sale used are in very poor shape.
I was thinking of using a plastic trash bag and back-filling the open areas with expanding insulating foam. Is this a good idea or have you found a better way?
Thanks.
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Post by rapidrob on Apr 29, 2017 17:39:31 GMT -6
Run a liquid flat proof in your tubes( it self balances by centrifugal force) and your good to go for a very long time. I'm been doing this for over 50 years now and it works.
Your bike cannot develop enough torque to spin the inner tube and cut the valve stem.
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Post by rapidrob on Apr 29, 2017 17:05:46 GMT -6
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Post by rapidrob on Apr 29, 2017 8:14:13 GMT -6
The cables are on Ebay. The original carb is 200 bucks with shipping. There are non-cable choke carbs for sale for under 20 bucks with the same mounting as original. Anyone try one of these carbs?
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Post by rapidrob on Apr 28, 2017 17:07:00 GMT -6
Now the fun starts. The throttle cable was rusted tight. I soaked it in Kroil for 48 hours and it freed up enough to move but the return spring just can't push the cable back. It stayed wide open.
I cleaned the carburetor well in an ultra sound tank and needle drill bit the orifices but the float will not turn the fuel off when the cup is filled. The little hair spring is missing for the needle valve.
While the vale seems to try to shut off,the carb leaks fuel out a little weep hole 3/4 way up the casting. No idea why this is happening unless the little spring would provide the final force to shut the needle valve off.
I need to find a new or used,working throttle cable and that needle valve hair spring if I can.
I will get this bike running for sure,I just have to find the parts.
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Post by rapidrob on Apr 27, 2017 15:40:39 GMT -6
I read that the 2-stroke engines are hard on spark plugs.Even though it looked to have no wear or deposits the spark was weak. I replaced the plug with a new one and it made all the difference. A squirt of gas/oil into the carb and it fired right up.
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Post by rapidrob on Apr 27, 2017 8:32:11 GMT -6
I was able to get the engine to run for a minute by spraying fuel into the carb. The tank is pickled and is drying now.
The compression went over 100 psi before my gauge started to leak on a warm head. The engine died after it changed the running sound. The spark is blue but weak. Condenser? I'm not sure why it stopped so suddenly. It would not start again.I may have flooded the housing and it is too rich.
The engine sounded good and the wheel spun. First time running in 20 years.
Thanks for the advice.
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Post by rapidrob on Apr 24, 2017 23:07:14 GMT -6
I was given a Honda 1978 NC50 Express today. It has been sitting out in the desert under a tree for the last 20 years.
The tires are rotten,brake cables frozen up and fuel lines fossilized. Other than that the bike is in good shape.
The piston was free and after oiling up the piston and cylinder and turning the engine over by hand I'm reading 85 pounds of compression. The scooter is showing less than 700 miles on the odometer which is still hooked up.
The spring starter was wound up like a cheap clock and would not release via the rear brake trip lever at the transmission.
I opened up the transmission cover ( a good thing as the oil had thickened to like crude oil and really smelled bad) only to find the the Starter Arm(?) and it's hair spring were no longer touching the gear and had slipped behind the sprocket. No parts were damaged,just out of place.
I was able to safely unload the starter spring and attempted to replace the left cover back onto the transmission casting. The Starter Arm does not want to cooperate and keeps wanting to go behind the sprocket. I put a little tension on the starter spring to force the Starter Arm against the tooth of the sprocket. After having "fun" aligning the various pins and shafts in the housing I replaced the dozen or so screws only to find that darn Starter arm had moved off of the sprocket again,this time not allowing the face of the Starter Arm lever to stay on the sprocket tooth allowing the starter spring to be wound.
As far as I can see in the manual ( provided here on this site,thank you very much,Sir) I do not see that any parts are missing,it must be the way I'm trying to reassemble the two half of the transmission.
I would really appreciate any tips since a photo would be impossible. As to how the Starter Arm sits normally and how to put it back together without the part shifting escapes me?
I've been working on and building mini-bikes since the mid 60's and can swing a wrench with the best of them.
The little Honda looks to be a fun bike to play with.
Thank you for any help.
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