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I have several that have come and gone as I fix them as a hobby.(keeps me out of trouble) Many have gone over the 2k mile reading on the odo. They have the standard problems of failing switches if they are left out in the rain, which confuses people when they won't start.
You can use a magnet to fish out a dropped spark plug, or a length of coat hanger wire, to move it towards the other side of the shrouding. There is an exit hole for the cooling air directly under the cylinder that should allow a plug to fall out if probed that way. A magnet is better.
You can check the valves yourself if you want to learn. There are videos and instructions all over the web. A spark plug should last a long time, around the tens of thousands of miles. Lead-free fuel killed the 20,000 mile tune up of the past. Plugs last 50-60,000 miles all the time.
Oil should be changed, the drain plug and strainer plug both should be removed, cleaned, and replaced when draining the used oil. I suggest 10W-40 with 'diesel' grading, such as Delvac or Rotells, and Wally SuperTech diesel should be fine. Change at an interval you are comfortable with. If you do short distances, and don't get things hot on each run, change more frequently. If you do longer runs, you can use longer interval. Given you can get a 4-quart jug for about $15, you would have almost 8 oil changes for that sum. About 750-800ml is all it needs, and a quart is 943ml. I guess 8 is not really on the mark. You should check the oil with it on the center stand, remove, wipe and replace the dipstick, setting it ON the threads and then pulling for reading. Do not screw it in before checking. I'd guess 500 miles is rearl short, 700 fine, and if you do longer runs all the time, 1000 miles would be adequate.
In other countries(other than USA) these machines are very important as they are THE transportation for many families. They get abused and ridden hard, and survive the least care and maintenance and thrive. Here, people likely pamper them, as the above intervals are actually easy on the engine no matter what you do.(unless AZ summer temps in stop-and-go traffic....)
Finally, keep it until you have a major problem. Do also drain and refill the final drive case with gear lube. It holds little, and is worked pretty hard. It has no filter, so any manufacturing chips and bits will get flushed out at the first change(hopefully). There may be a number indicating its fill volume, about 120ml, on the casting. Just remove the bolt that is on the bottom, let it drain, and refill using a syringe or filler until lube comes out of the filler. The filler is a bolt on the side of the case between to other case bolts that go through the close case into the other side. remove it before draining to be sure you have the right one. It is a short bolt, and it may be tight to remove. It SHOULD have a copper washer/gasket that you can re-use. If missing, it may seep lube past the head.
tom

The problem is in the Bendix drive not engaging the starter gear with the variator gear. The wires and starter must be good, and provide good current to the starter motor so it will turn the armature fast enough to engage the Bendix.
Take the CVT cover off, and see the tip of the Bendix hanging free above the variator. You can pull the Bendix out, (wiggle back and forth, and it will come), and inspect that it move freely. If stuck, you may free it up with some light lube/cleaner like WD-40. It MUST move freely as its inertia is what makes it move out and engage the gears.
You can just replace it if you want. If your battery, cables, relay and starter are good, replacing the Bendix will make it crank again.
Adjusting the valves may be something to consider in the future. You can check the clearance if you want and have never done so. A metric feeler gauge or inch will work. Get the cam sprocket with the big hole at the top, and the two small holes parallel to the cylinder head cover gasket surface. Measure between the rocker tip and the valve stem. About .004" will do for both, though exact specs are different. That clearance will get you running, but may be a bit 'tappy'.
tom

Does the spark plug have the standard design, with bent side electrode and a center electrode, or is it a 'flat' design where the spark jumps from the center to the side across a 'ceramic' plate of some kind? Either way, if you are getting spark or multiple sparks(some systems create more than one for each 'fire'), then try again with the pre-mix squirted in behind the throttle plate.
If the seals on the crankshaft go bad, you will not get any fuel:air drawn into the crankcase, and then stuffed up the side of the bore into the combustion chamber. Also, the fuel pump might quit working as it depends on the pulses of pressure as the piston goes up and down, changing the 'free air' volume inside the crankcase. As the piston goes up, the volume embiggens, when the piston comes down, the volume descreases, and forms a pulse of pressure. IF the seals are good on the crankshaft at both ends.
You can check readily by putting a vacuum/pressure gauge on the connection that pump diaphragm makes to the crankcase. Connected, and cranking the engine, should produce pressure fluctuation on the gauge.
tom