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Post by SABER on Jul 17, 2013 4:09:46 GMT -6
The stator is a big job for some on this bike. I would verify it is the stator before you replace it. I would think you should check the Regulator / Rectifier first as those are known on this bike to be of lower quality and have over heating low charge issues.
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Clinician
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Post by SABER on Apr 9, 2012 17:33:53 GMT -6
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Post by SABER on Apr 8, 2012 8:33:59 GMT -6
Be prepared my electric Impact wouldn't touch my variator nut. I own a pneumatic impact but was afraid to use it for fear of snapping something. Thankfully it didnt and it worked So if they are still factory you might need something with a little more umph the first time. Good luck!!
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Post by SABER on Apr 8, 2012 8:25:04 GMT -6
I just wish buying a quality replacement muffler didn't cost a quarter to half the price of the scooter. My OEM exhuast cracked within 3 months of buying the scooter. A year later I am still waiting on my warranty replacement so I ended up buying a eBay shorty exhaust just to get back on the road. It was $100 delivered and haven't had any problem with it sense.
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Post by SABER on Mar 31, 2012 6:28:09 GMT -6
replace the copper ring gasket with a full face like the picture.. you will never loose a nut again. I wish that was the case. I put that gasket on last year. I just need to add a plus 5 or 10 to the torque spec when the replacement nuts show up.
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Post by SABER on Mar 30, 2012 13:45:48 GMT -6
Backfire on Deceleration is caused by a LEAN condition. The most common cause is it is LEAKING by the Flange where it connects to the MOTOR. Also did you connect the Vacuum hose to the ACV diapghram, I presume it is a CVK carb and most of them have a ACV diaphgram. The ACV VALVE cuts the air when you let go of the throttle so it does not run LEAN from the quick closeing of the throttle. Alleyoop You got that right, On my way home from work today I lost one of the two cap nuts that holds the exhaust on my 150. Back fire all over the place plus the unpleasant sound of the exhaust leak as I nursed her home. Glad its the weekend.
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Post by SABER on Mar 29, 2012 3:39:33 GMT -6
I played with this issue all last year. I am now the proud owner of sliders from 8 grams to 15 grams. My stock was 17 gram rollers. My end result was running 9 gram weights, 1500 rpm yellow main spring and swapping out my final gear set from 13/40 to 15/38. Before top speed on GPS 52 mph at 6200 RPM After Top Speed on GPS 62 mph at 7200 RPM max speed on a downhill I've reached 66mph Acceleration increased as well because of the lighter weights and heavier torque spring top end increased because of the final gear swap. But remember one change effects all others. So just doing weights and springs as I did without final gear swap will put you past the red line. Good Luck and start out buying cheap ebay sliders. When you find what you like then spend the cash on a good name brand.
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Post by SABER on Feb 1, 2012 15:03:51 GMT -6
Looks great SABER, that should take care of it. I really like the Frankenstein look though and think those fittings hanging out would be cool. I'd probably go with brass though rather than steel. Rich Hey thanks. I chose galvanized purely due to cost. If I had the cash I would have gone with stainless steal. But that gets expensive real quick.
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Post by SABER on Feb 1, 2012 14:05:31 GMT -6
get an all metal one, they come with a rubber washer and a nut tightens them up. If one of them cheap rubber stems cracks off at speed you are going to have a hell of a time to keep from going down. I know from experience. when one breaks you loose, all the air gets gone just like you had a blow out. (takes about 5 seconds to go flat) most all of the vendors have them. Most of the OEM tires are junk, rough riding on and do not have good grip on the road. On my carino I changed the OEM tires before I had worn out the mold tits. The difference is night and day. Remember one thing, its your butt that hits the ground if your tire slips or goes flat, not mine. john john No doubt. That's why I'm looking and asking. But does anyone have a size that's they have used and know to work and be safe
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Post by SABER on Feb 1, 2012 8:17:43 GMT -6
I don't need a new tire yet but my valves are looking a little cracked. What size valves fit into the 13" scooter wheel.? I used to work in a tire shop in my youth so I know valves come in all sorts of sizes and shapes.
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Post by SABER on Feb 1, 2012 5:04:19 GMT -6
Hey watsup everybody, I recently changed out my intake manifold and put a filter on instead. But once I had done that, there were those 3 tubes just hanging there and im not really sure what they were for or what i should do with them. Can i just leave them hanging or do they actually serve a purpose because only one of them seems to be blowing out air and the other two, lifeless. Any suggestions? Because all the hoses were open to each other in the air box I decided to go this route. Whole thing cost me about $10 between Ace hardware and Advanced Auto. I have sense moved this up under the rear fender to make a cleaner look. Attachments:
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Post by SABER on Jun 29, 2011 16:15:27 GMT -6
So I have a question about this. I for the life of me can't get the cover back on with the kick start installed. I have measured it out and if I take a band saw to the front snorkel of the cvt cover it will line up and I won't have to wrap it around the frame to get it installed. Anyone try this ? Should I have any concerns. The snorkel is well hidden behind the frame and passenger foot rest.
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Post by SABER on Jun 29, 2011 4:11:30 GMT -6
I'm really interested in how all this pans out. I am new to the world scooters but I've been in the mechanical and electrical fields all my life. I got a wild hair last night and pulled the CVT cover off my 150 with 300 miles on it. I found my factory rollers are 17grams. I guess that explains why at 30mph I feel like I am shifting from 3rd to 5th. I want to go with maybe 15gram sliders because I need to keep my current top end but the bogging at 30 to 45 is killing me. Also for the tire pressure i got my scoot dead on verified by GPS, google maps and the road sign radar by uping my front tire pressure from the factory 25psi stamped on the data plate to 30 psi. Tire is rated to 36psi.
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