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I had a "squeek" in the rear clutch of my QMB 50cc engine. I pulled the CVT to investigate but didn't really see anything broken or unusual. Bearings seemed smooth, not gritty, shoes were worn but still had pads, etc...I did put a little grease on the needle bearing rollers and lubed the clutch shoe pivots/springs to see if it would help but it didn't so I replaced the CVT with a new unit and the "squeek" is gone so obviously something was worn out.... My question is do I need to routinely service the CVT needle bearing with grease? If so, how often is recommended?

Thanks

Thanks to all who replied. It is appreciated.

I'm no expert on scooter wiring but after wiring my project scooter with a new "generic" scooter wiring harness I really have to agree with Bashen. I spent an entire day sorting the ins and outs of the new harness. The more I worked on it the more I became convinced I could do better.....Not only were there excess wires for who knows what but the color coding of the wires sometimes changed not once but twice from the front of the scoot to the back....confusing to say the least....So, I did what Bashen is suggesting that you do and that is start from scratch. My situation was a little different in that I "wanted" full functionality....ie, turn signals, etc....Wiring schematics can be confusing because a lot of times you have to figure out whether the wires connect to each other or whether they just pass over each other as indicated in the schematic. (Sometimes a connection is marked by a large dot, but not always) To help me understand this and make it easier for me to "see" their function I used a scoot wiring diagram I got online (pdf file) and then edited out the entire schematic, leaving only the switches on the diagram. This was my starting point and I added circuits in one at a time until all systems on the scoot were working. Where wires crossed each other on the diagram but didn't connect, I used an inverted U to indicate a crossing and not a connection. I used the connectors from the generic harness only because it made the process less $$ painful. I didn't want to waste the money I had spent on the replacement harness. Doing it this way, one step at a time makes the job manageable. I positioned my start relay, CDI, ignition coil, battery, and reg rectifier on a mounting plate under my seat. Everything in one place. I hope my 2 cents worth of experience on my project helps you and good luck on your project. Here is a pic of where I located the vitals:

Project update:

I ran into fitment difficulties with the body plastic so I had to re-do my seat mount. This time I installed the cladding and worked from the outside in.....If at first you don't succeed...... Hinge and latch portion are done but still need to fab and install the center support and anchor the luggage carrier into it. Also still remaining to fab is a small cover to the open floor pan area, a mullion filler strip for the body panel joint and mount the inner rear fender.

Thanks for the reply. I am inclined to agree with you on the getting hosed part....It doesn't make any sense to ship a battery dry if it needs acid before it will work correctly....then again, the battery came from T-MOTORSPORTS.......so I guess that makes perfect financial sense for them. The battery is their personal house brand, TMS....I now regret not including the battery along with the new engine when I returned it for being incomplete..... Since you have been the recipient of a dry battery in the past, I'll gamble a few dollars and get the battery filled with acid and see if it corrects the problem. After the fiasco with the engine and T-MOTORSPORTS I have long since put them on my "list" of places NOT to do business with. This has totally sealed their fate with me.

Thanks again for your input.

Gas tank mounting is complete and wiring is done:






Start of body plastic installation. Floor pan opened to compensate for widened frame:




Still need to get heat resistant paint for exhaust.