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Post by new2scooters on Feb 6, 2012 10:30:07 GMT -6
It would effectively reduce the voltage being applied to the heating coil. That would for sure slow done how fact the auto choke stopped enriching the mixture on a cold start. I would put it a 10 ohm in and if I then experinced too rich a mixure or to long a rich mixture on cold starts, I would reduce the resisance. to perhaps 5 ohms- 5 watts. If still to rich I would eliminate it. Too low a resistance will also run more current through it and cause it to burn out sooner. Cheers lefty2 Thanks for your input. Your answer makes perfect sense since the autochoke is a heating coil of sorts and that would provide some adjustability in the time it takes to close.... Thanks again.
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Post by new2scooters on Feb 6, 2012 9:22:08 GMT -6
I am to the wiring stage of my scooter project and I've run across a dilema of sorts.....On some wiring schematics there is a resistor, either 5 or 10 ohms, 5 watt, in series with the autochoke coil and on other schematics there is none. Anyone have any input on when a resistor is called for? Thanks in advance for any help you may be able to give.
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Post by new2scooters on Feb 2, 2012 22:29:08 GMT -6
Photo update: Seat brackets and hinge assy, rear light assy, start of fuel tank mounting New centerstand fabbed and installed:
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Post by new2scooters on Jan 30, 2012 22:01:54 GMT -6
Swingarm brackets are welded and scoot is a roller Photo update: On to the wiring.......
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Post by new2scooters on Jan 29, 2012 20:41:21 GMT -6
Thats awesome I wish I had learned to weld but I guess its never too late. What is the best method of welding for a new person to learn? whats the easiest to learn? where and how to start? The bike looks great! IMO, a standard arc welder is the probably the easiest to use but a wire feed mig welder is the certainly the most flexible welder for light to medium welding projects. Probably the best option for someone that has never welded before and would like to get started would be to find an entry level class such as those offered by Adult Education centers....That way you can try out various types of welders used by the sponsoring school and at only the minimal expense of the class. I would say that a couple of "must haves" are a good pair of leather welding gloves and an auto darkening welding mask. Gloves are about $10/pair and a mask will start at about $35 (Harbor Freight) and go up from there.....My first mask from Harbor lasted about 9 months before it quit working. (Probably my fault as it took a few hard drops....) My second Harbor mask is a couple of years old and is still working fine. Just been a little more careful with this one though. As with a lot of the "Harbor" tools, they work great within their limits....
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Post by new2scooters on Jan 27, 2012 15:17:17 GMT -6
great i think this will work out just fine well done where does your welding experience come from? I got my start in Vocational Agriculture class in high school. I spent most of my study hall time periods in the shop. We had a great teacher and he always gave passes to those that wanted additional shop time.....Any time I could get there, I was there...Got my first welder after high school (1970) with funds I earned from trapping. Was a new Lincoln buzz box I purchased for $80 and was the best investment I ever made. I still have that welder today and it works as good now as then. Only had to repair/replace cables and ends once and lube the fan once. Not too bad for 40+ years of service. I purchased a mig welder a few years ago and that is my welder of choice simply because of its flexibility. I keep the Lincoln not only for sentimental value but because it handles the occasional really thick welding so well. Next week I'm going to do the final alignment on the swing arm. My current plans are to set up the laser so it will shoot vertically through the center of the steering tube, down the centerline of the frame and through the center point of the rear tube. I will align the center groove of the rear tire with the laser so it "should" all be true and track correctly.... Got the grandkids coming for the weekend so will be busy until then. That's the plan!
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Post by new2scooters on Jan 27, 2012 11:22:42 GMT -6
and it had rubber on the top and bottom right? Yes, both top and bottom.
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Post by new2scooters on Jan 27, 2012 10:13:45 GMT -6
how did you do the crossmember for where the bump-stop is on the motor mount? The rubber on the front part of the motor mount was rectangular shaped so I used a piece of rectangular tubing to "capture" it, but it still allows movement.
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Post by new2scooters on Jan 27, 2012 0:19:19 GMT -6
Photo update: Swingarm brackets are done. Ready for final alignment and welding
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Post by new2scooters on Jan 26, 2012 9:34:22 GMT -6
Photo update: Upper shock mount and start of swingarm fabrication:
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Post by new2scooters on Jan 26, 2012 0:25:09 GMT -6
I can take the floorboard off this one on the bench and take more detailed photos. You may need a donor scooter to hack stuff off the frame for this, i passed up a free frame yesterday. Thanks for the input tmec. I have salvaged the swingarm from the engine donor scooter. It looks very similar to your photo. I did have concerns about mounting the engine in a fixed position which is why I posted the question and based on the response I got, it certainly will be avoided. Experience is always the best teacher, especially in this case.... Thanks again for your input.
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Post by new2scooters on Jan 26, 2012 0:15:39 GMT -6
Thanks to all who have taken time to reply. Your input is certainly appreciated and will save me not only a lot of design time but I'll end up with a better riding scoot when it is done.... Thanks again! Based on your input, I've started construction of the swing arm mount however I need to pick up some wider steel for mounting it to the frame.Will get that next time I get to town and with any luck I'll find it in the offcut bin where it is only $1 per lb.
Project update: rear shock mount and front pivot for swing arm fabbed and welded.
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Post by new2scooters on Jan 25, 2012 11:15:35 GMT -6
NO THEY WILL BREAK! ive seen this tried before. Thanks tmec for your input. Was hoping that wouldn't be the answer but I did think that was a possibility.....Another thought along this line is using shouldered bolts that tighten on the shoulder and not pinch the rubber mount so much that it stresses the aluminum mounting tab. Any input on something along that arrangement?
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Post by new2scooters on Jan 25, 2012 2:39:22 GMT -6
nice work id love to be able to weld Thanks. I was able to get the room for the engine that I needed by opening the frame up 3" and I still will have the original wheelbase length..... All of the plastics will fit as originally designed.....so that part of the project was a success. Thanks for your input on the fixed engine mount issue....I probably need to clarify my engine mount question though... I will still have a rear shock but what I'm undecided on is whether I need a swing arm or can I mount the front of the engine to a fixed point and will the bushings that are there give me enough flex....?
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Post by new2scooters on Jan 25, 2012 2:20:11 GMT -6
Update: photo of frame mod: ready for widening.... Frame widened, welded and gusseted....
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