Clinician
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by: nulldevice - May 24, 2012 10:00:53 GMT -6
Post by nulldevice on May 24, 2012 10:00:53 GMT -6
I got a comment....5,000 MILES!! He let the tire go 5,000 miles on a scooter!? What an idiot, motorcycle tires don't go that long. Good luck suing Qlink too, they're toast. Rich I typically get 5000 miles from the rear tire on my scooter, two times that on the front, and they aren't bald when I change them. |
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Clinician
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Post by nulldevice on May 10, 2012 15:13:37 GMT -6
When I heard many years ago that Pennsylvania required the brake drums be removed to check the brake shoes for wear (pre disk brake era) I decided Penn. DOT are absolutely out of their mind. Statistical analysis showed they were causing more wrecks than they were preventing.
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Post by nulldevice on May 5, 2012 15:49:07 GMT -6
Or perhaps the cooling fan isn't working properly. Dead motor, bad fan thermostat, wiring to and from not fully connected.
Do you hear the fan running when it gets hotter than normal?
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Clinician
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Post by nulldevice on Apr 26, 2012 21:57:12 GMT -6
Get used t0 the Tupperware removal. You have to take it off do do anything except change oil (maybe) and put gas in it. I'm one of the clumsy ones. By the time I figure out how to do it I have broken a half dozen fastener tabs in the process.
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Clinician
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Post by nulldevice on Apr 26, 2012 21:52:09 GMT -6
I don't know which filter you are cleaning, but the ones I have seen say to use dish washing soap and water. Let it dry and then add air filter oil. WD 40 is entirely unsuitable for this use. Use the right stuff if you can get it. If not, use chainsaw bar oil, gear oil and stuff like that that has body and won't drip off, get sucked into the carb, or settle to the bottom of the filter and leave the top dry.
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Clinician
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Post by nulldevice on Apr 20, 2012 17:58:34 GMT -6
Weak rotor magnets?
Stator installed backwards?
Wrong stator for the rotor (flywheel) magnet arrangement and number?
You should have 30 - 100 volts AC at the stator without the regulator plugged in.
Wrong polarity from a regulator with a mismatch of wire arrangement in the plug?
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Post by nulldevice on Apr 17, 2012 20:16:23 GMT -6
While you have that cut-off switch in there, consider putting something over it, like a section of bicycle tube for electrical insulation or wrap it with electrical tape. That is a lot of exposed metal with enough current potential to weld a wrench or screwdriver to the frame.
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Post by nulldevice on Apr 16, 2012 19:08:00 GMT -6
Judging from that post Bikedown must be a non-native English speaker and speak/read/write English as a second or maybe third language. Have mercy for him.
The problem with keeping it open, regardless of how close to the ground, is the air turbulence will take any oil or oily water that works its way out and spread it all over the back of the scooter. I suggest you cap it and drain it as needed. It's cleaner that way.
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Post by nulldevice on Apr 12, 2012 20:28:20 GMT -6
Try checking out the starter solenoid for resistance across the big terminals. It should indicate an open circuit. Be sure to zero your meter.
Rather than mess around with your scooter rectifier/regulator and LCD display wiring, I suggest you put a battery disconnect switch on your scooter.
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Post by nulldevice on Feb 6, 2012 20:29:21 GMT -6
"at that point the amp probe is reading 15plus volts" Read more: scooterdoc.proboards.com/index.cgi?board=250cc&action=display&thread=5604#ixzz1leosy3m5My friend, if you have 15-16 volts DC in your charging system your voltage rectifier/regulator is toast and your battery will soon be fried. Are you sure you are using the DC scale on your meter? Have you checked for AC voltages? Have you checked your meter(s) against a known amperage source and known voltage source or a known good meter? Are the DC volts the amp meter reads the same a DC volt meter reads? The reason I am so sceptical is because I have never seen voltages in the 15-16 volt range in any vehicle with a 12 volt system except those which have faulty voltage regulation. |
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Post by nulldevice on Feb 6, 2012 12:20:55 GMT -6
Say what?  15.75 volts is too high for charging the battery except as a pulsed voltage to remove sulfation from the battery plates. A surface charge refers to a battery condition, not alternator output. If the alternator isn't putting out the watts to feed the electric system demands the system voltage will drop and the battery will most certainly provide the difference and discharge while doing so. I haven't figured out what the last sentence is trying to say. Guys ,,,,,,,,,,,,,, you need to consider that the surface charge from the ,alt. is charging the batt at 15.75 volts , almost 4 volts more that the batts value it self ,, this surface charge is why the fan is not going to discharge the batt. an elevated charge reads just like redharging batt with a 110 volt charge, please put a fork in me i'm done carl coco |
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Post by nulldevice on Feb 5, 2012 13:15:46 GMT -6
Bashan,
If discreet solid state components and a hot soldering iron don't deter you, I'll make up a schematic and parts list for my home made R/R. Maybe even take pictures of my installation and post them too.
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Post by nulldevice on Jan 23, 2012 11:56:13 GMT -6
I have a fan like the blue one. it moves 1100CFM and draws, according to the label, 80 watts. That's almost 7 amps. I am having no problems with battery charge. I did the Rockers and Mods rally in Cleveland last summer and I only had to turn the fan on for a few minutes a few times during the whole hot summer day deep urban traffic.
There were a few electrical mods to get the amps though. I got rid of the stock regulator/rectifier unit and made my own. The connectors have been replaced with soldered joints. I have a nice, steady 13.5 volts at the battery. I put a manual switch in the fan circuit. The voltage drops to 12.5 with the fan running. The fan thermostat comes on before the radiator thermostat fully opens and ran all the time. Thus, the manual switch and occasional glances at the temperature gage.
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Post by nulldevice on Jan 22, 2012 12:29:26 GMT -6
OOH! Another common scenario -- a wheel parked in a two to three inch deep puddle that freezes overnight. You won't move, or you will tear up the tweel, and/or the body of the car.
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Post by nulldevice on Jan 22, 2012 12:15:12 GMT -6
I can't wait. Just think, snow, salt, almost freezing temperature, the result is slush. It's going to be a really rough ride if you park it with slush inside the exposed spokes and the temperature drops. Now, do the spokes chew up and spit out the ice, or does the ice chew up and spit out the spokes?
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