fan motors to compare By ccoco (Read 1,170 times)

[ccoco]

fan motors to view jcl on left blue 850cfm on right

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[mahoney823]

The problem we are having with the fans is: They draw 3 amps or more when they are running thereby keeping our batteries from maintaining a full charge.
How many amps do these fans pull?
What are the part numbers and who manufactures them?
Where can we buy fans that draw less than 3 amps?
Thanks

[mike6736]

I would think the blue fan was pulling more amp power than the black as it is going to move more air so the pull push power will be grater

Mike

[jct842]

the blue seems to have more air flow when it is not turning. it might not have to run for the same amount of time. the ideal would be when moving the fan would never come on! john

[Bashan]

Here is a link to c coco's thread about the fans and there's a link to the Ebay page on it.

I used a 10" fan from Silicone Intakes and it drew about two or three amps. However, I just went to their site and this chart says more:

The thing moves some serious air though. Here is an image link to their fans and radiators page. I know several guys on the site have used these on their 250s. Rich

Click on image for link to fans and radiators

[nulldevice]

I have a fan like the blue one. it moves 1100CFM and draws, according to the label, 80 watts. That's almost 7 amps. I am having no problems with battery charge. I did the Rockers and Mods rally in Cleveland last summer and I only had to turn the fan on for a few minutes a few times during the whole hot summer day deep urban traffic.

There were a few electrical mods to get the amps though. I got rid of the stock regulator/rectifier unit and made my own. The connectors have been replaced with soldered joints. I have a nice, steady 13.5 volts at the battery. I put a manual switch in the fan circuit. The voltage drops to 12.5 with the fan running. The fan thermostat comes on before the radiator thermostat fully opens and ran all the time. Thus, the manual switch and occasional glances at the temperature gage.

[ccoco]

Guys ,,,,,,,,,,,,,, you need to consider that the surface charge from the ,alt. is charging
the batt at 15.75 volts , almost 4 volts more that the batts value it self ,, this surface charge is why the fan is not going to discharge the batt. an elevated charge reads just like redharging batt with a 110 volt charge,

please put a fork in me i'm done carl coco

[Bashan]

Jan 23, 2012 11:56:13 GMT -6 nulldevice said:

I got rid of the stock regulator/rectifier unit and made my own.

I would really like to know how you did that. I've thought of doing the same thing. A bridege rectifier is no problem, it's the voltage regulation I'm not sure about. I hate to just put a regulator on it that burns it off as heat but maybe that's what you have to do.

Jan 23, 2012 11:56:13 GMT -6 nulldevice said:

I put a manual switch in the fan circuit. The voltage drops to 12.5 with the fan running. The fan thermostat comes on before the radiator thermostat fully opens and ran all the time. Thus, the manual switch and occasional glances at the temperature gage.

I really like that idea too, but I'd like to get a digital gauge rather than analog. Some folks have said they wouldn't want a gauge to watch and a switch to throw but that's my idea of a good time.

Jan 30, 2012 17:36:25 GMT -6 ccoco said:

Guys ,,,,,,,,,,,,,, you need to consider that the surface charge from the alt. is charging the batt at 15.75 volts , almost 4 volts more that the batts value it self ,, this surface charge is why the fan is not going to discharge the batt. an elevated charge reads just like a recharging batt with a 110 volt charge. please put a fork in me, i'm done. Carl

Nice to see you back around Carl, don't be a stranger. I'm not going to put a fork in you...that's a very good point. Rich

[ccoco]

Didn't change any electrical ,, i just put the fan in and pushed the gas tank forward, back in place..................

[nulldevice]

Bashan,
If discreet solid state components and a hot soldering iron don't deter you, I'll make up a schematic and parts list for my home made R/R. Maybe even take pictures of my installation and post them too.

[nulldevice]

Say what?

15.75 volts is too high for charging the battery except as a pulsed voltage to remove sulfation from the battery plates.

A surface charge refers to a battery condition, not alternator output.

If the alternator isn't putting out the watts to feed the electric system demands the system voltage will drop and the battery will most certainly provide the difference and discharge while doing so.

I haven't figured out what the last sentence is trying to say.

Jan 30, 2012 17:36:25 GMT -6 ccoco said:

Guys ,,,,,,,,,,,,,, you need to consider that the surface charge from the ,alt. is charging
the batt at 15.75 volts , almost 4 volts more that the batts value it self ,, this surface charge is why the fan is not going to discharge the batt. an elevated charge reads just like redharging batt with a 110 volt charge,

please put a fork in me i'm done carl coco

[ccoco]

guys if you put an amp probe around the pos, cable four or five inches above
the batt , at that point the amp probe is reading 15plus volts the flux voltage in that single wire coming to the batt while eng, is running get an amp probe and try it. all you have to do is clip the amp probe around the cable,, set it for D C , no contact is required with the cable ..... did any one notice that the blue fan also had cooling holes in the
center hub ?? ran my 250 this afternoon with small fan blowing in to radiator ran it from start up at 3500 rpm's for ten mins on the pegs temp never got to middle of gauge..
cooling fan didn't have a chance to come on. you can do the same thing on a car batt.

amp probe

[nulldevice]

"at that point the amp probe is reading 15plus volts"

Read more: scooterdoc.proboards.com/index.cgi?board=250cc&action=display&thread=5604#ixzz1leosy3m5

My friend, if you have 15-16 volts DC in your charging system your voltage rectifier/regulator is toast and your battery will soon be fried. Are you sure you are using the DC scale on your meter? Have you checked for AC voltages? Have you checked your meter(s) against a known amperage source and known voltage source or a known good meter? Are the DC volts the amp meter reads the same a DC volt meter reads?

The reason I am so sceptical is because I have never seen voltages in the 15-16 volt range in any vehicle with a 12 volt system except those which have faulty voltage regulation.

[ccoco]

Null Just rechecked voltage at batt with volt meter at 2000 r p m's the volt meter shows
a steady 15 volt. normal charging systems charge batts from 13.5 volts to 14.2 volts with all the electrical systems on like on cars a/c running head lites on etc.
reading at batt post. this is standard in the industry check with a shop that does nothing but sells batt and repairs alt. a normal good batt will show a surface charge of 12.5 volts not
running .