Clinician
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Post by ccoco on Feb 7, 2012 18:45:24 GMT -6
Null Just rechecked voltage at batt with volt meter at 2000 r p m's the volt meter shows
a steady 15 volt. normal charging systems charge batts from 13.5 volts to 14.2 volts with all the electrical systems on like on cars a/c running head lites on etc.
reading at batt post. this is standard in the industry check with a shop that does nothing but sells batt and repairs alt. a normal good batt will show a surface charge of 12.5 volts not
running .
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Post by ccoco on Feb 6, 2012 19:14:06 GMT -6
guys if you put an amp probe around the pos, cable four or five inches above
the batt , at that point the amp probe is reading 15plus volts the flux voltage in that single wire coming to the batt while eng, is running get an amp probe and try it. all you have to do is clip the amp probe around the cable,, set it for D C , no contact is required with the cable ..... did any one notice that the blue fan also had cooling holes in the
center hub ?? ran my 250 this afternoon with small fan blowing in to radiator ran it from start up at 3500 rpm's for ten mins on the pegs temp never got to middle of gauge..
cooling fan didn't have a chance to come on. you can do the same thing on a car batt.
amp probe
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Post by ccoco on Jan 31, 2012 13:28:32 GMT -6
Didn't change any electrical ,, i just put the fan in and pushed the gas tank forward, back in place..................
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Post by ccoco on Jan 30, 2012 17:36:25 GMT -6
Guys ,,,,,,,,,,,,,, you need to consider that the surface charge from the ,alt. is charging
the batt at 15.75 volts , almost 4 volts more that the batts value it self ,, this surface charge is why the fan is not going to discharge the batt. an elevated charge reads just like redharging batt with a 110 volt charge,
please put a fork in me i'm done carl coco
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Post by ccoco on Jan 11, 2012 16:03:22 GMT -6
fan motors to view jcl on left blue 850cfm on right Attachments:
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Post by ccoco on Jan 10, 2012 20:25:17 GMT -6
bash>> i am an a/c and heating contractor, i live by my amp probe and air flow charts,,now.80 watts is the max you can run this motor any more then 80 the windings would start ot over heat. i checked in in place while running . thanks again don't know
how to p m.. been working on central a/c and window shakers ((window units)) for very long time thanks again for the pic
c coco 65 yo
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Post by ccoco on Jan 10, 2012 19:22:39 GMT -6
trike rechecked amp on blue fan it is only pulling .34 amps you are not subtracting
the resistence of the air hittig the gas tank whick lowers the electro motive force of the motor
fan can't cut enough air when blocked ,, same as blower motor on home a/c if you hold
your hand in front of the discharge the more you cut the air down the less amps it loads
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Post by ccoco on Jan 10, 2012 6:22:27 GMT -6
E BAY order number for blue fan info is KOSPEED2008 please would someone
post e bay web page to the fourm don't have e bay acct and attachment on my pc
is not working
c coco
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Post by ccoco on Jan 9, 2012 20:26:13 GMT -6
Hi guys found a fan motor on e bay that never heats up check out ,,,,,,, blue slim 7 inch 850 cfm 12 volt dc cooling fan.. same temp and conditions tested fans, old o e m fan motor would run 71 seconds then would shut off. this baby comes on only 26 seconds and has ten two inch blaces o e m has ten one inch blades . it pulls .18 amps the o e m is .34 amps ((checked with amp probe )) .it has 35 percent more free air space for air to pass through to radiator,which does not come on very much. temp gauge same comes on just above half way and goes back below but takes longer to come on again. e bay page three c coco Attachments:
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Post by ccoco on Nov 25, 2011 22:04:00 GMT -6
Thanks, i will try that , didn't know by cranking with dead switch any oil would come out
i wondered where the extra oil hides when you drain it and let it drip for 30mins.
i would be dead in the water if i didn't have an out side source for extra help
don't speak chinese and the manual needs a makeover ,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,, BAB
thanks guys
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Post by ccoco on Nov 25, 2011 16:31:07 GMT -6
i drained the oil that was in the crank case only and i measured it on last oil change
it showed 45 oz so i measured 45 oz and put new oil back in and with the dip stick
screwed in all the way,,, when i take it out it shows at the top of the xxxxx on the dip stick
but is that the correct level it needs to be???
on my jcl the rear end lable calls for 20 wt oil and i found out that i neeced 80w90 so that
is what i put in .. the lable on the motor shows .08 L tried that the very first time and the
stick level was way off,, don't remember how much that is way i measured the amount 45oz i know that i am close , but am i over or under depending on the way i insert the stick
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Post by ccoco on Nov 25, 2011 14:48:56 GMT -6
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Post by ccoco on Nov 25, 2011 14:45:58 GMT -6
my manual it not clear on how to check the oil level in the crank
case , do i screw the dip stick in all the way or do i hold it at the
top of the oil hole and not screw it in for a oil level reading.
thanks
don't want to run it low
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Post by ccoco on Oct 13, 2011 19:42:51 GMT -6
YOU ARE GOING TO NEED A FAN THAT PUTS OUR 180+ CUBIC FEET PER MIN ,, CHECK THE SPECS
FAN SHOULD PULL LESS THAN ONE AMP ,, TRY AND AXIAL FAN ,,, ONLY FOUR INCH BY FOUR INCH
BUT FOR OUT SIDE CONDITIONS OR MOIST CONDITIONS
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Post by ccoco on Oct 13, 2011 19:13:56 GMT -6
HI JASON WHEN YOU ADD COOLANT TO YOUR SCOOTER , ONLY ADD IT WHERE THE COOLANT TANK
IS LOCATED ,, YOU CAN LET COOLANT OUT AND START SLOWLY , KEEP POURING COOLANT AS THE
TANK NEEDS IT THIS WILL TAKE CARE OF ANY AIR BUBBLES ,, FILL AS REQUIRED AND DO NOT ADD ANY
FROM RADIATOR HOSE CAP LOCATED NEAR BATT COMP. TEMP SHOULD IMPROVE WITH NO AIR
BUBBLES. IF STILL RUNNING HOT GO TO WALMART AUTO SECT. AND GET A 16 OZ BTL OF HY-PER
LUBE USE AS DIRECTED,,, NO MORE NO LESS THIS SHOUDL LOWER YOUR TEMP MY 20 DEG.
WORKS ON MY 250CC
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