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Post by rks on Jun 14, 2015 3:58:30 GMT -6
So cyborg........have you found your R1150R yet? I noticed you had changed your avatar a while back, and kinda thought you may have acquired a blue one, but haven't read any posts about it. Just wondering...
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Post by rks on May 31, 2015 13:59:54 GMT -6
I don't understand why you would want something like a 40w/60 in your engine.....help me out here.....did I miss something? I run 20w50 already because it can handle higher pressures and temps. And it doesn't burn up as fast as 10w40 would. It keeps my engine cooler and it runs smoother. All that equals longer engine life with less wear. So, if I could actually put something like 40w60 in, it would be that much better to a point... My favorite oil is Royal Purple 20w50. It's made specifically for bikes and it works amazingly well. There is a very obvious difference in the feel of the engine when I use Dino compared to the Purple. 1. Most engine wear occurs at startup. 2. Your motorcycle engine doesn't come close to creating the pressures or the temperatures that a twin turbo diesel engine will....and a 15w/40 conventional, or the newer 5w/40 synthetic diesel oils, excel under high pressure, high temp conditions. 3, Don't think you will increase engine life by running something that heavy. |
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Post by rks on May 27, 2015 3:40:22 GMT -6
Hey glavey.....I might suggest that the reason your gauge is fluctuating is the teflon tape.....it screws up the necessary ground. VDO sender instructions state in bold letters..Do not use teflon tape on threads. Mine doesn't leak a drop, and doesn't fluctuate either.....I use a nylon washer on the sender, and replace it with a new one every 3rd or so oil change.
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Post by rks on May 21, 2015 5:05:36 GMT -6
I don't understand why you would want something like a 40w/60 in your engine.....help me out here.....did I miss something?
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Post by rks on May 18, 2015 5:48:54 GMT -6
Just to add more fuel to the fire, I use 15w40 diesel oil in my scoot. as do I. Its made to take higher pressures and temps. Its almost as cheap as the regular oil and I can get it by the gallon at family farm and home which is a store kinda like TSC Great choice you two......I usually buy my Mobil Delvac 15w/40 at wallyworld, but I just picked up a gallon at NAPA for $11.99.....now I'm all set for the next 5 oil changes. |
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Post by rks on Apr 15, 2015 1:42:22 GMT -6
The one on my 150 looks a lot worse off than yours......I too, was ready to order a new one, but after cleaning it, and a closer look with a magnifying glass, and running a tooth pick lightly back and forth over each imperfection, I found what appeared to be cracks, were actually areas of raised/excess metal left over during casting.  |
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Post by rks on Apr 4, 2015 4:36:47 GMT -6
Well, now that you've said the front are three wire units, that means it is supposed to be a two filament bulb....one filament for the running or marker light (probably about 8 watts), and one filament for the turn signal (about 23 wats). It should be an 1157 type bulb, might be one of the low profile ones. If your turn signals are lit all of the time, they are using more power( 46 watts), than your headlight (35 watts), and I find it hard to believe any scooter is designed to work that way. See what bulbs you have, I still say the turn signal portion should illuminate when the switch is turned on, and the running light side should not have anything to do with it, and certainly not go out because signal is operating.
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Post by rks on Apr 3, 2015 18:54:07 GMT -6
That's just plain goofy. Turn signals are supposed to light up when switched on....not go out. A lot of older vehicles ran bulbs that were running, turn, and stop all in one, but that was a 2 filament bulb, and I doubt you have those in your front turn signals...and if you did, the running light would stay lit, even with the signal on. Sounds to me like someone has monkeyed up the wires on the front of your scooter.
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Post by rks on Apr 3, 2015 5:06:03 GMT -6
I'd suggest you do one thing at a time. Just maybe, the one you have will be fine with a slight adjustment. You might also read the link below. It was written for Vespa owners, so the jet sizes mentioned are not right for our Chinese scooters......but there is a lot of good information in the article. Jetting |
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Post by rks on Mar 28, 2015 7:14:28 GMT -6
If your stock 50cc is running a 84, I think you'll be glad you have the 5 jets form 90 up... A 35% increase in displacement is probably going to require more than an 85 or 86 can provide.
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Post by rks on Mar 27, 2015 4:17:14 GMT -6
One set would arrive in a couple of days...the other in a couple of weeks.
A few years ago I bought a set of jets...wasn't in a big rush....went the slow boat from China route. Totally satisfied with the product I received. Don't think there's a nickles worth of difference in the way they are made. So if you can do without them for 14 days or so, i'd pick the $5 ones......but.....if you need them immediately, you'll need to spend the $20
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Post by rks on Mar 26, 2015 16:48:43 GMT -6
You say your tire and rim are hot to the touch....and there is about 7/8" clearance between the tire and the exhaust pipe. I don't see how that would cause the heat build up you describe, at least not while you are moving...sounds like plenty of room to allow for air flow. Now if there was a hole in the pipe, blowing hot exhaust directly on the tire...that's different
If your tire and rim are truly getting hot, not just warm, I would sooner think that you have something else going on. First thought is a dragging brake, maybe along with an under inflated or overloaded tire. I'd be looking that whole rear area over, real good, blowing a tire on a two wheeler makes for a bad day.....maybe a bunch of bad days.
No tire should get so hot that it is uncomfortable to touch. Back in my trucking days, I used to place the back of my knuckles on the sidewalls to check tire temps at each stop. A couple of hundred miles between stops, and grossing 80,000+ pounds, tires get warm, but not hot to the touch. If one was warmer than its mate, then you knew it was carrying more than its share of the load, and that its partner was down some on air.
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Post by rks on Mar 22, 2015 7:51:13 GMT -6
K&N, item RC 2290 works fine for me, as shown above. This is something you will have to figure out on your own, depending on where/how you want to install it. The frame on my scooter, and most others, is in the way, not allowing a direct mount to the carb. A piece of 1.5" (ID) radiator hose provides a nice snug fit over the 42mm mouth of a standard 24mm CVK carb. Then a piece of pvc, or something similar, with a 1.5" diameter. can be used to connect the hose to the filter.
Like I said, you'll have to take some measurements, and figure where you want it positioned.
The K&N goes for $37 or so, you can probably find a less costly alternative brand, of similar size, if you hunt around.
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Post by rks on Mar 20, 2015 18:45:48 GMT -6
I think you might better go to a "snowmobile forum" with this. I just searched those two words....found at least 8 different forums, on the first page of the search. You are probably not the first one to want to put a water temp gauge on the type of equipment you have.
You could go to a mechanical gauge, but it might take some fabricating to get the sensor installed. Then you wouldn't need any electric, except for lighting, but if you wear one of the little LED strap on headlamps, you'd be good to go.... electric free..
You didn't say who made your toy, or when it was made....But it does seem odd to me, that they thought it necessary to build it with a radiator, and hoses, a thermostat, water pump, fan, and a temp sensor along with the wiring.......but when it came to a starting system, all they came up with was a piece of rope.
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Post by rks on Mar 18, 2015 10:57:06 GMT -6
I've already voiced my opinion on this thread, but felt like jumping in again. I read all the horror stories before I bought my scoot, and decided to get one anyway. The wife thought I was nuts, when I started tearing it apart the day after it arrived. I tried to explain why, but she just shook her head in disbelief. It's a guy thing I guess, I enjoy wrenching, and wanted to check things out.
At first I had little confidence in it (all of the horror stories stuck in my head), but as the miles added up, the confidence started to build too. Now, after 3 years, and no break downs, I have complete trust in it. Scooter is pretty much stock, all electrics are original, (except battery, replaced after 2 years & 3 months...and spark plug boot, replaced 2 days ago due to deteriorating rubber).
Drive train, same story, all OEM except the weights in the variator, and the Goodyear Belt. Up jetted carb when air box was replaced with a free flow filter...Lots of rubber hose and all associated canisters removed before scooter was started for the first time. My PDI didn't cost anywhere near what you said....a tube of silicon caulk, some dielectric grease, and a tube of blue loctite, some zip ties, and a roll of electrical tape.
No racing parts installed on my 8 hp super bike (CDI, coil, clutch). At 220 pounds, and 67 years old....don't think I'll be doing any scooter racing....so I put the money I saved on that stuff, into a couple of gauges to better monitor electrics, and fluid temperature.
I don't flog the scoot, nor do I go out in bad weather.....I ride it like a scooter...cheap, basic transportation....it is what it is. If 40 or 45 isn't fast enough to get me where I want or need to go, I won't take the scooter....I opt for one of my German made 1200cc bikes.
So, 5,800 miles, zero breakdowns, replacement parts so far, variator weights, air filter, and drive belt. All because I desired to, not because I needed to. Oh, and that battery...I did need to replace that.
I have complete confidence in it, and would drive anywhere as long as I don't have to maintain highway speeds, to stay alive.
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