|
|
Post by rks on Jan 26, 2015 16:12:57 GMT -6
I think at this point, I'd want to break the tire down to check for damage to the rim in that location. If there are any burrs or sharp edges where the bead lives, they will need to be sanded down as smooth as possible...then you can install a tube. If there is no damage to the inside of rim, I would lube the bottom edge of the bead, and see if you can get it to seat. I use a little waterless hand cleaner, on 1 finger, spread all the way around the bottom edge of the tire bead. You don't need gobs of it...just a very thin coating to help it slide into place. A teaspoonn of water, with a few drops of dish soap, would also work.
|
|
|
|
Post by rks on Jan 26, 2015 10:21:46 GMT -6
You don't use tire irons to pull a tire into place. Only to mount or dismount a tire from the rim. Air pressure is used set the bead. (get the tire to edges of the rim) You will hear an audible POP, (sometimes more than one) when the bead sets. Check the mounting ring on each side of tire...this is a very thin line molded into the tire, that goes all the way around it, maybe 1/8" or so above the rim. It should be the same distance from the rim, all the way around. If it's 1/4" away in one place, and almost touching in another, you need to break the bead, lube, and reset. Like I said, each side of the tire has this mounting ring, and the distance between it and the rim should be the same all the way around.
All tires have these, be it a car, a motorcycle, or a tractor trailer.....and you would be surprised how many employees at tire shops know nothing about it.
There are a couple of vidio's in the library on mounting MC tires...might be of some help
I certainly hope the inside of your rim isn't gouged up like the outside.
|
|
|
|
Post by rks on Jan 26, 2015 7:05:22 GMT -6
An inner tube is not the answer, if the bead of the tire is not set. I have read and re-read this thread, and I'm still not sure exactly what your problem is...so tell us....is the bead set, and the tire just won't hold air....or.....the bead is not set, so you can't get the tire to inflate.
A ratchet strap, wrapped around the circumference of the tire will help you get the bead set, if that is the problem.
I have never found a need to use more air pressure to set a bead, than that listed on the sidewall as maximum operating pressure.
|
|
|
|
Post by rks on Jan 20, 2015 16:41:49 GMT -6
You boys enjoy rubbing it in like that, don't you. Last ride here was on Nov. 11th......next one probably won't be for 90 days or so.
Am I jealous of you??......gd right I am.
|
|
|
|
Post by rks on Jan 20, 2015 16:03:45 GMT -6
I've ordered them directly from their website.
|
|
|
|
Post by rks on Jan 20, 2015 15:45:18 GMT -6
I installed dyna beads in the tires that came on my scooter by using a 6" C-clamp to break the bead, a small funnel, and a piece of fuel line that I had taken off the scooter during the PDI. No need to remove the wheels.
Have also put them in through the valve stems on my motorcycles, while the wheels were off. The C-clamp method is just as effective....and maybe a bit easier.
PS: I agree with richardv, don't use BB's
|
|
|
|
Post by rks on Jan 17, 2015 15:58:00 GMT -6
I didn't ask you to buy something.....just to read something, and gain a little understanding of how a carb works.
|
|
|
|
Post by rks on Jan 17, 2015 15:11:32 GMT -6
|
|
|
|
Post by rks on Jan 17, 2015 9:03:50 GMT -6
Thanks. I understand that. Your dyno has nothing to do with speed (mph). I have 2 motorcycles so I'm on board with that. The engine revs to 8k+ under no load so that should rule out fueling and ignition. Its either the driveline or simply doesn't have sufficient power. I'm going to pull the CVT apart this weekend. Thanks for the replies. I believe your assumption is wrong. If you can reach 8000 rpm on the center stand, that would eliminate an ignition component (speed limiter and such), but doesn't mean your carburetor is right. The amount of fuel being used to attain that rpm with no load, is probably 1/4 (or less) of the amount needed when there is a load on the engine. Your problem may be in the variator.....but you can't rule the carb out, or any of the other fuel delivery pieces, just because it will rev up with no load. |
|
|
|
Post by rks on Jan 16, 2015 5:45:49 GMT -6
It will rev over 8k on center stand but won't rev past 5900-6000 when riding, even down hill. I've adjusted the valves and replaced the carburetor. It has to be a driveline issue, right? Suggestions? I got to thinking about your question and was wondering if you could provide a little more background info on the scooter... Is it new? Why did you replace the carb? Was it the same size carb? Also, is this a new problem? Less than 50 miles....Carburetor has been replaced.....I would bet this is where your problem lies. |
|
|
|
Post by rks on Jan 14, 2015 16:55:06 GMT -6
Boy...most of those guys are paranoid. Sure doesn't take much to get their panties bunched up.
|
|
|
|
Post by rks on Jan 7, 2015 5:29:33 GMT -6
A member of this forum for almost 3 years.....this is your third scooter.....you have a 750cc motorcycle.....and you have to ask what kind of oil goes in a gearbox?.....Are you for real?
|
|
|
|
Post by rks on Jan 7, 2015 5:15:49 GMT -6
On this forum's home page, scoot down to the library section, and then to the 250cc - 300cc section in the library. Should be a lot of helpful info there.
|
|
|
|
Post by rks on Dec 31, 2014 19:05:51 GMT -6
My EGR system and vacuum lines are wired slightly different on my model the bottom of the air pollution canister is open and I can't figure out where vacuum line goes to it. This would be an ideal time to remove and discard all of that stuff. You and your scoot will be happier in the long run. |
|
|
|
Post by rks on Dec 30, 2014 17:12:25 GMT -6
My experience with the $25.00 knock off is almost identicle to Alley's...3 seasons of running, never been off, or cleaned. Scooter runs great, always starts, and idles, has no flat spots, has never bogged. The last gallon of gas I burned, delivered 91.5 mpg. Don't know what more I could ask for. I run a K&N filter, stock exhaust, a 115 main jet, and all emissions have been removed. I know it sounds a bit too rich, but it isn't in my case. Spark plug has a nice tan color, is original equipment, and has 5800 miles on it. Might have something to do with my intake tube design (1.5" radiator hose, with a piece of pvc used to connect filter to hose) That pvc inside diameter is probably close to 1.25" [img src=" ![]() i1271.photobucket.com/albums/jj622/rks3526/IMG_0080.jpg" src=" " alt=" "] I believe that you would be totally satisfied with the carb you have, if it were jetted correctly. |
|
