Clinician
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Post by budmanr on Mar 10, 2011 10:32:23 GMT -6
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Clinician
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Post by budmanr on Aug 8, 2010 14:48:01 GMT -6
Ordered sliders, is it wise to order gasket also . Do they come with instructions ? Looked at a couple of videos here any suggestions as to which is best for my situation
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Clinician
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Post by budmanr on Aug 7, 2010 10:39:45 GMT -6
I have a tank 2006 TK150T-H was missing rubber floor boards . I found replacements , but not happy with fit . Does anyone know if there is an aluminum or metal replacement that can be screwed down . Attachments:
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Clinician
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Post by budmanr on Aug 7, 2010 10:21:17 GMT -6
Will go one or to exits but on long runs cars seem to get annoyed . Can only hit 65 mph . Besides back roads are more fun .
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Clinician
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Post by budmanr on Aug 6, 2010 14:22:27 GMT -6
Ok jr here are some voltage readings
1- battery freshly unplugged from tender 13.20 v
2- after starting idle cold low beam 13.29 v
3- after starting idle cold high beam 13.22 v
4- at 5k after starting cold low beam 13.50 v
5- at 5k after starting cold high beam 13.49 v
next are with engine warm with fan running
1-idle low beam 13.00 v
2-idle high beam 12.98 v
3-5k low beam 13.05 v
4-5k high beam 13.02 v
I then took out for a 10 minute ride and shut off 13.10 v
Then ran another 10 minutes and shut off 13.10 v
Then stopped at bar for a couple then 10 minutes
to home for last reading shut off 13.10 v
Just for additional info I'm running with LED'S all around except for the dash bulbs in addition to a GPS unit . I also
have a shark radio but left off for ride . Hope this helps let me know if you have any other questions .
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Clinician
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Post by budmanr on Jul 29, 2010 13:28:32 GMT -6
Will due voltage readings as soon as I can get my hands on one. One I have is busted.
Feel free to move post where ever you want
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Clinician
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Post by budmanr on Jul 29, 2010 13:05:03 GMT -6
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Clinician
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Post by budmanr on Jul 29, 2010 10:24:51 GMT -6
Photo in garage . I have had this kit sitting around for 4 months now. Was always to lazy to take apart to install Not to mention the 90 degree + days here in Florida . I always hated riding at night visability with stock lights was about 30 feet on low and 60 feet on high . It wasn't till the other night comming home when I missed a road construction sign alone in the middle of the road by about a foot that inspired me . I took scooter out for a ride last night I can now see about 150 feet with a wider spread on low and on high has to be at least 500 feet . This is by far the best and safest upgrade so far and would highly reccomend to anyone who rides at night . Attachments:
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Clinician
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Post by budmanr on Jul 29, 2010 10:05:48 GMT -6
Connected 2 ballest on each side of glove box and glued . All that was necessary was to plug connectors to there partners and reattach front ferring Attachments:
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Clinician
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Post by budmanr on Jul 29, 2010 9:59:36 GMT -6
Attached main relay to old speaker bracket . Ran new positive wire direct to battery and grounded to horn bracket. picked up light plug from auto parts store to match relay plug. color coding was as following At least on mine, the connection to existing headlight should be their yellow to scoot blue, their blue to scoot white, and their brown to scoot green. Those colors would be on the connector like | _ |. Sorry got names confused in photo this photo is relay. other photo are of ballasts Attachments:
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Clinician
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Post by budmanr on Jul 29, 2010 9:54:45 GMT -6
Removed old bulbs and replaced with hid's tabs fit perfict with bulbs pointing upwards. Attachments:
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Post by budmanr on Jul 29, 2010 9:52:13 GMT -6
Finally did hid light upgrade yesterday. Here is the kit used except there are 2 ballast one for each bulb. will include other photos in future . Attachments:
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Post by budmanr on Jul 27, 2010 11:15:20 GMT -6
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Post by budmanr on Jul 4, 2010 12:22:49 GMT -6
Thinking of upgrading rollers to sliders . I have a 2007 jcl mp 250 a with 257 motor . I'm a big guy 300 lbs . anyone as to which weights to use would be helpful .
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