Hear the health care cost anywhere for a family of 4, 400.00 to 600.00 dollars a month I think your way is better. After all if you cut down a little on driving you still have your care but if you cut back on payment they drop you can't win with the insurance company's
You make a good point bud, unfortunately our health service is on the point of collapse despite the 95 billion pumped into it per year. It`s one of the most mismanaged government organisations we have got.
Good grief, you lot have got it easy. Petrol prices in the UK are equivalent to $6.22 a gallon at the moment and we`re counting ourselves lucky. Lowest they`ve been here for nearly 10 years, at one point they were at $8.48 a gallon.
pull your headlight bulb and see if things go back to normal.
I`ll try it tomorrow bud.
From the readings your getting the stator is bad. Your readings should be much higher that what your seeing. Alleyoop
That`s the vid I used Alley. I`m getting 26v at idle (goes up with rpm) with the multiplug disconnected. The problem seems to be when its connected, it`s just not sending enough to the regulator to charge the battery. I had a word with the distributor and they`re sending down another regulator, if it works then I`ve got two 6 month old reg`s on the shelf which are faulty. What would be the chances of that ?
Charged battery right up and drop tested, all seems fine with that. Tried another charged battery on scoot to see if that made a difference but no change. Checked resistances on stator wires and thats all good (it should be as its new). Tried two new regulators on there but all the same. Checked and cleaned all earths but made no difference, even tried popping on the extra earth lead as before to replicate the 14 volts but it didn`t happen again. Only thing I can say for sure is the white stator wire gives 10v and yellow gives 8v when connected. Disconnect the stator plug at regulator and I get 26v at idle which seems right. So it would point to regulator but it isn`t (having tried replacements) . I checked resistances at regulator plug and they`re good as well. I think this one will have to go back to the distributor....
Lighting is AC (only works with engine running). Scoot is 3 months old, totally stock with 381km on the clock. I PDI`d it when new and charging was 13.5 volts at battery. Had a fiddle with it this afternoon, removed battery and started bike by kickstart, yellow and white wires were down to 6 volts each without battery fitted Then fully charged battery and refitted, double checked earths, connected an extra lead with crocodile clips each end from engine to negative battery terminal, at that point for a split second I started getting 14 volts at battery, then that disappeared and went back to 12.3. I don`t know if that was because of the extra earth lead or just a blip in the system, it didn`t give me chance to check. I`m back in work on Monday so hopefully will have a bit more time on it.
We`ve got a 3 month old scoot in work where the owner has to charge the battery every couple of days or it dies. Battery voltage when running is about 12.4 tops. I checked the charging system, the white and yellow wires from the stator are only putting out between 8 and 10 volts each tops. If I disconnect the regulator the voltage from each wire goes up to about 32. I swapped the stator and flywheel to no avail. Swapped the regulator in case it was causing a problem but all remained the same. Any thoughts chaps ?
One of my favourite bikes was an old PX125, no battery, no electric start, drum brakes, oil pump was disconnected so it was premix, not fast but it always started. So simple but it was immensely enjoyable to ride. Also had an early `70s 150 super many years ago, similar but on 8 inch wheels and no indicators. Wiring diagrams on both were basic to say the least so less to go wrong. I wish I could get another but the prices in the UK are rather inflated.
The Abruzzi has the normal GY6 engine, they made two models of 125, one with a normal carburettor and one with fuel injection. If it`s a carb model then adjusting the idle is simple, if it`s fuel injected then I haven`t a clue unfortunately.
The easiest way to access the engine is to take the seat bucket out which is 4 or 6 bolts if I remember correctly. You can then access the main components. You can change the sparkplug, it`s a bit fiddly but can be done with the seat bucket out. The side panels are held on by a bunch of screws, you`ll need to have a look around the panels to spot them.
Oh as a side note,,,be very careful putting that damned handlebar/ gauge cover back on correctly,,,take your time and make sure everything is tucked back nicely or pinched wires are in your future,,,a bigger piece of sh!t has never been designed,,,,ask me how I know
I hear ya buddy. The last Vespa I had was a batteryless PX, simplicity itself. When I took off the headset on the 4T, I wondered how I was going to get all the multiplug connectors back into that space.... very carefully was the answer
All very true Alley. Sometimes I do wonder what is going through designers heads, the fuel tank on the 4t is mounted on the side of the bike behind the right side panel, the sender is on the left of the tank, inside the frame and blocked by everything but the kitchen sink. On the right side of the tank which is immediately visible once the side panel is off, is nothing but a flat surface. Why they didn`t mount the sender on there where it`s a quick and easy job baffles me. And as Cyborg said most of the stuff works off the mag, it seems strange to have a fuel gauge which doesn`t work until the engine is running.