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Post by Alleyoop on Feb 29, 2016 19:46:57 GMT -6
so with it wired as is no manual grounds flick it to run position and it should crank the motor over and if not then the green wire for the start button is not grounded.
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Post by Alleyoop on Feb 29, 2016 19:41:05 GMT -6
Ok here is your switchs:  Now from how the switchs are and wired I think they work as below: 1. If switched to the killwire the push button does nothing. 2. If switched to the RUN position then it grounds the start button and the motor turns over. Alleyoop |
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Post by Alleyoop on Feb 29, 2016 19:21:22 GMT -6
Well if you pushed the button and you get nothing means the PUSH BUTTON GROUND has a problem so manually ground that one to frame and see if it then spins the motor.
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Post by Alleyoop on Feb 29, 2016 19:16:35 GMT -6
I believe it is the other green wire next to the GREEN/WHITE from the START BUTTON
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by: Alleyoop - Feb 29, 2016 18:47:43 GMT -6
Post by Alleyoop on Feb 29, 2016 18:47:43 GMT -6
Great!! Good video showing the play on he belt and then nice and taught with new belt.
That belt climbing when letting go of the throttle IF you noticed and listen THE RPMS WENT UP a little before dropping that is why the belt moved up a little more. What that tells me it is running a little LEAN on the top end it needs maybe a 1/4 to 1/2 turn COUNTER CLOCKWISE turn on the Fuel ratio mixture.
Alleyoop
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Post by Alleyoop on Feb 29, 2016 18:30:47 GMT -6
Ok hook it up with your ground to frame BUT the important thing is to TEST FOR SPARK IN BOTH POSITIONS.
YOU SHOULD ONLY GET SPARK IN THE RUN position, switch to the RIGHT=RUN and WHEN PUSHED to the LEFT NO SPARK.
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Post by Alleyoop on Feb 29, 2016 16:57:12 GMT -6
HAHAHAHA, what he means by lite up is DOES THE MOTOR START AND RUN, NOT about the lights  Once you get the switchs in and you can turn the moto over and have spark then we can work on getting the motor to LITE up as CY puts it.   |
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by: Alleyoop - Feb 29, 2016 15:47:17 GMT -6
Post by Alleyoop on Feb 29, 2016 15:47:17 GMT -6
I really think it is due to the SOAP SOAKING and it has stretched a little. How high does the belt sit on the CLUTCH PULLEY? If near the edge and you can put your finger in the top center and push down and it has more than 1/2 inch play then it is stretched.
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by: Alleyoop - Feb 29, 2016 15:22:59 GMT -6
Post by Alleyoop on Feb 29, 2016 15:22:59 GMT -6
AH I see that the variator that is on there is one they say helps cool the belt have the fan edges open. Yes get rid of that fan pulley and get one that has a full face pulley. Now to find out if a full face fan pulley will do you any good MARK your current Variator 1/2 by 1/2 with a marker and run it at WOT and see how high the belt climbed. Here is my PRODIGY 115mm variator before the BBK, notice the mark left and how high it climbed on a 115mm(4 1/2 inchs) diameter than the 107mm OEM(4 inchs), the belt climbed about 3/8 of an inch producing more top end  |
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by: Alleyoop - Feb 29, 2016 14:26:49 GMT -6
Post by Alleyoop on Feb 29, 2016 14:26:49 GMT -6
What I do not understand is you say the Fan pulley is UNDERSIDED?? I have yet found a 150 or even a 50cc with a smaller fan than the Variator!! The fan pulley for the 150s are normally approx 4 1/2 inchs in diameter equivalent to your 115mm performance variators.
Now the NEW FAN PULLEY you bought should be at LEAST 4 1/2 inchs in diameter.
Rosie, the important thing to ALWAYS notice are the RPMS for each experiment. The RPMS is the MAIN thing that will get you more top or less top end.
The thing is to get the belt to climb as high as possible on the Variator to create a bigger wheel. So there will be a give and take situation with rpms and weights. Not only that but the Variators also come into play. Some Variators will give you strong low end and mid-range but not top end and then some will give you strong top end but sluggish low end to mid range.
I know you have been experimenting but NEVER wash a belt with soap,m it will soak into the belt and make it slip which by the way may be why your top end has dropped some.
To get my rpms down and cruise at much lower rpms than just about anybody else I changed the tranny gears. But in my case I could do that since I added more horses to the motor 30 more ccs. So with more horses I could still have strong low end and mid range and great top end at very low rpms. If someone puts in taller tranny gears with a stock motor they will get sluggish starts and slower reaching mid range AND may also loose top end due to not enough power to pull the taller gearing.
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Post by Alleyoop on Feb 28, 2016 22:03:13 GMT -6
Hey you wanted a PARTA Well it is late here so you now just need to fix the Grounding of the CDI either the KEY or the KILLSWITCH it is one of those two that will ground out the CDI and create a NO SPARK. Alleyoop |
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Post by Alleyoop on Feb 28, 2016 21:42:41 GMT -6
WAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAWHOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOO!! GREAT NEWS that means the KILLSWITCH or the KEY is grounding out the CDI. Much easier to fix than buying parts |
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Post by Alleyoop on Feb 28, 2016 21:32:52 GMT -6
.3 is good if you get nothing then it is open.
I don't know if you saw this video but it is a good one for finding which part of the no spark is the culprit.
0. Ground from motor to frame
1. plug
2. boot cap
3. coil
4. cdi
5. stator power
6. pick up coil
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Post by Alleyoop on Feb 28, 2016 21:12:30 GMT -6
To verify that the CDI IS NOT BEING GROUNDED you will need to take the BLACK/WHITE wire OFF on the CDI, TOP WIRE ON THE TWO PLUG , then check for spark.
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Post by Alleyoop on Feb 28, 2016 21:11:08 GMT -6
What have you got the meter set on? Normally the numbers would be like .? if good
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..BAD TO THE BONE..
