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Post by Alleyoop on Feb 28, 2016 19:50:26 GMT -6
Well I have to tell you the RECTIFIER/REGULAR has SQUAT to do with the START BUTTON AND THE KILLSWITCH. The R/R handles taking AC voltage fed from the stator and converting it to DC for some of the lighting and charging the battery. So with that said the R/R does not come into the picture until the MOTOR IS RUNNING. So I suggest tracing the TWO GREEN ground wires and making sure they have a good ground:  |
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Post by Alleyoop on Feb 28, 2016 19:02:22 GMT -6
HAHAHA, looks like spider man was also living in there as well  |
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Post by Alleyoop on Feb 28, 2016 16:32:04 GMT -6
The stiff black wire is probably a GROUND for the battery or the motor. So trace the wire back to what its connected to. As far as the oil goes any 10w40 weight oil. On the cover here is where you fill and drain the oild.  |
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Post by Alleyoop on Feb 28, 2016 16:18:49 GMT -6
Good news it was an easy fix glad I was able to help with your scoots problems, but at least before you sell it ride it around a little   The idle sounds good, the 250s usually idle good anywhere from 1800-2000 rpms, you can adjust it to where it idles the smoothest. Alleyoop |
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Post by Alleyoop on Feb 27, 2016 20:10:21 GMT -6
The high rpms at cold start and then going down and dieing and the backfiring at IDLE sounds like you have a PRETTY GOOD AIR LEAK somewhere. That is why the rpms are so high when cold running really LEAN then as it warms up whatever is leaking seals a little and the idle drops.
So get a spray bottle of water and start it up and spray around the intake manifold and hoses looking for the air leak. When the water hits the area with the AIR LEAK the RPMS(IDLE WILL CHANGE). Also check around all hoses and AIR BOX for any open connectors and or hoses that are not connected to anything.
If you could get some pictures of the top of the motor and hoses It could make this much easier cause I know what I would be looking for.
Alleyoop
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Post by Alleyoop on Feb 27, 2016 14:36:54 GMT -6
Ok, i looked at your START BUTTON and the KILLSWITCH. Here is how they are hooked up. The START BUTTON GROUND WIRE IS the GREEN/WHITE WIRE. That goes and Uses the KILLSWITCH GROUND. That is why the KILLSWITCH HAS THREE CONNECTORS and 3 CONTACTS. And yes moving the KILLSWITCH TO THE LEFT GROUNDS the CDI and kills the motor. So trace the GREEN WIRE ON THE KILLSWITCH that is the GROUND FOR BOTH START BUTTON AND KILLSWITCH OR you can make your own GROUND to the KILLSWITCH splice into the green wire and ground that wire and then both Start and Kill should work peachy keen. Alleyoop |
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Post by Alleyoop on Feb 26, 2016 20:33:29 GMT -6
Not a problem, take a break the scoot will still be there tomorrow the next day next week whatever.
The hardest part has been done and you have resurrected a rust bucket into something into looking brand new.
I check almost everyday for new questions and or issues with their rides and I will check your thread as well for any updates not to worry.
Alleyoop
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Post by Alleyoop on Feb 26, 2016 19:23:49 GMT -6
The killswitch is just like the START BUTTON one is ground and the other goes to the CDI to ground it.
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Post by Alleyoop on Feb 26, 2016 19:11:34 GMT -6
The switch has TWO CONTACTS one contact goes to ground the other is the BLACK/WHITE WIRE which goes to the CDI.
Test the two contacts on the switch IN ONE POSITION no CONTINUITY between the two contacts(KILL OFF)
flicking the switch should make contact with both which would be (KILL ON) grounding the CDI.
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Post by Alleyoop on Feb 26, 2016 15:41:01 GMT -6
Great on the kill switch flicking to the right should then break ground. Same with KEY on it breaks ground and with key off continuity on the black/white.
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Post by Alleyoop on Feb 26, 2016 14:44:35 GMT -6
If you are getting spark at the SPARK PLUG, then you know the STATOR is good powering the CDI the PICK UP COIL is good telling the CDI when to release the voltage to the COIL and you also then know your COIL is good.
So take the spark plug out or just take the boot cap off the one in the motor IF you have a spare spark plug stick it in the bootcap and hold it by the rubber or Plastic CAP on the VALVE COVER and turn the key on squeeze the brake and hit the start button and see if the SPARK PLUG IS FIRING a nice blueish spark. IF SO all is good on that part of the system.
ALleyoop
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Post by Alleyoop on Feb 26, 2016 14:18:48 GMT -6
Yes, trickle charging works best 2amps gives it a good deep charge that will hold up better.
Alleyoop
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Post by Alleyoop on Feb 26, 2016 14:11:53 GMT -6
About the battery 10amps should charge it withing 3-4 hours 2 amps over night more like 6-8 hours.
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Post by Alleyoop on Feb 26, 2016 14:08:04 GMT -6
COOL, that is your basic AC CDI. You should get continuity with the key off, then turn the KEY ON and kill it with the KILLSWITCH and you should get conintinuity KEY ON KILLSWITCH IN THE KILL POSITION.
The killswitch is for emergencey it is right by your hand as your riding and you can kill the motor at a moments time with your thumb. That is for safety so you do not have to take your hands off the handlebars reaching to turn the KEY to the OFF position.
Alleyoop
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Post by Alleyoop on Feb 26, 2016 12:34:17 GMT -6
WOW!! that killswitch looks nasty  , I would bet the light switchs on the left handbar are in the same shape. My question is what you say is the CDI in the previous page normally the CDI's look like this But to find the CDI follow the COIL WIRE(SPARK PLUG WIRE) back and it will go to the COIL. The COIL will have one wire or two, if two one is ground the other COMES FROM THE CDI. And when you find it take a picture of it the wiring AND COLORS OF THE WIRES PLUGGED INTO IT. 6 PIN CDI: MOST ONLY HAVE 1 GREEN GROUND WIRE ON THE BOTTOM OF THE 4 PLUG: YOU CAN SEE THE KILLWIRE BLACK/WHITE TOP OF THE TWO PLUG.  |
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..BAD TO THE BONE..
, I would bet the light switchs on the left handbar are in the same shape.