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Post by Alleyoop on Mar 1, 2016 15:43:24 GMT -6
NO that is not normal, it should rise 50+VAC on all THREE YELLOW WIRES. Check any grounds maybe a bad ground otherwise you got a bad STATOR. Alleyoop
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by: Alleyoop - Mar 1, 2016 15:41:36 GMT -6
Post by Alleyoop on Mar 1, 2016 15:41:36 GMT -6
That was to determine how strong the contra spring is compared to the old one. New ones will take more rpms to move the scoot until they break in few thousands of mile.
What I was saying is starting off slowly twist the throttle and notice what the rpms are before the scoot actually starts to move. And if to high you can swap the old contra spring from the old clutch and the scoot will start to move at a lower rpm. That is if you care about the rpms at takeoff. Alleyoop
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by: Alleyoop - Mar 1, 2016 14:39:06 GMT -6
Post by Alleyoop on Mar 1, 2016 14:39:06 GMT -6
FANTASTIC!! Well with the belt that loose it was all over the place sometimes slipping sometimes grabbing and making you loose top end to boot. Now before you get the bigger variator fan pulley MARK your curent setup and see how high the belt climbs so you can accurately get a good comparison when you put on the bigger fan pulley. Then mark it again opposite the old mark so you can see the difference if any. Alleyoop
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Post by Alleyoop on Mar 1, 2016 14:26:57 GMT -6
Here is what I would do using the OLD SWITCH AND THINK ABOUT, I WANT IT TO START, I WANT IT TO KILL etc.. You know to KILL the BLACK/WHITE wire needs to be grounded, and the start button needs to be grounded to activate the SOLENOID. Lay it out open and put the switch in and lay out the wiring when plugged in and see what the switch touchs when moved back and forth. And see which ground touchs which contact and when etc.. OR is one ground common across. Which may be since I see it has a plate going across.
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Post by Alleyoop on Mar 1, 2016 14:19:05 GMT -6
This is what you said in the previous post where I had told you that you had a very bad air leak. You found the disconnected tubing and fixed it and said the above. So if it is still doing the same thing re-check what you did it may have come off again. Starting up idling at very high rpms is sign of running lean even with the extra fuel being fed by the ENRICHER for cold starts. Your ENRICHER is working that is why the RPMS start to drop with a couple of minutes which means the ENRICHER is cutting off the extra fuel. IF no AIR LEAKS then you need to ADJUST the CARBS FUEL MIXTURE. scooterdoc.proboards.com/thread/1499/4ts-carb-tuning
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Post by Alleyoop on Mar 1, 2016 13:45:17 GMT -6
Ok dreaming about it last night:
1. With the killswitch on NO RUN it works and you get spark? QUESTION: did you reconnect the BLACK/WHITE wire back up to the CDI?
IF YOU DID NOT RE-CONNECT the WIRE back up to the CDI then the tests area void.
2. ONE other taught came to me in the DREAM(HAHA), I would think ONE of those GREEN GROUND wires comes from the KEY IGNITION and maybe the KEY IS GROUNDING the KILLWIRE on the ON POSITION.
One way to make the PUSH START BUTTON work is to GROUND the GREEN/WHITE wire since for some reason moveing the killswitch to run is NOT making contact with the green/white and ground even if you manually ground the green wire?
Doing that will not activate the Solenoid unless you squeeze the brakes and push the start button the only difference is the PUSH BUTTON will always be grounded already killswitch off or on.
The important thing is to get spark when you want it AND the solenoid to activate when you squeeze the brakes and push the start button. If the killswitch is in NO RUN it will turn the motor over but it will not start until you switch the KILLSWITCH TO RUN. Alleyoop
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Post by Alleyoop on Feb 29, 2016 22:18:12 GMT -6
It has to be the switchs that is a very simple setup to operate the SOLENOID. SQUEEZE THE BRAKE KEY ON JUICE GOES TO SOLENOID PUSH THE START BUTTON AND IT SHOULD GO TO GROUND WITH THE SWITCH(pretty simple) the killswitch is something completely different that kills the CDI by GROUNDING THE BLACK/WHITE that is all those switchs do by moving the switch to ground things out or not.
Well it is late and the my brain is SWITCHED OUT right now (HAHA). I will probably be dreaming about this crap tonight and maybe a bulb will light up tomorrow. Or maybe you will find the problem . Alleyoop
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Post by Alleyoop on Feb 29, 2016 22:13:06 GMT -6
You know maybe the ACTUAL SWITCH that you move is backwards because that is opposite of how it should work. So it is making contact with the wrong ones. Or what if you try just switching the plugs
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Post by Alleyoop on Feb 29, 2016 22:01:28 GMT -6
If the above works and you have spark then what I think is the ACTUAL SWITCH that you move is backwards because it is set at an angle and making contact when in the wrong position.
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Post by Alleyoop on Feb 29, 2016 21:58:07 GMT -6
OK now splice a ground on the green wire next to the GREEN/WHITE and see if you have SOLENOID.
IF YOU have solenoid then with the KILLSWITCH on RUN see if you have spark.
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Post by Alleyoop on Feb 29, 2016 21:38:23 GMT -6
DANG but look at the actual wires see the B/W on the SPIDY is on the outside and the green on the inside. On the new one the B/W was on the inside and the green on the outside that is why I said to flip it. OK maybe the switch is backwards set it back up to kill and you have spark. what happens if you put it on RUN do you still have spark and does it turn the motor over?
MY BRAIN IS STARTING TO MELT (HAHA).
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Post by Alleyoop on Feb 29, 2016 21:30:23 GMT -6
The killswitch wire plug is backwards in the slot flip it. Ok I have been steading the switchs and it appears the switch with the BLACK/WHITE and Green is backward pull that one out and turn it so the BLACK/WHITE is on the outside right now the GREEN is on the outside. I compared the new ones to the OLD ONES with the spiders on them (HEHE) an you will notice how they are plugged into the killswitch.
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Post by Alleyoop on Feb 29, 2016 21:21:41 GMT -6
Ok I have been steading the switchs and it appears the switch with the BLACK/WHITE and Green is backward pull that one out and turn it so the BLACK/WHITE is on the outside right now the GREEN is on the outside.
I compared the new ones to the OLD ONES with the spiders on them (HEHE) an you will notice how they are plugged into the killswitch.
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Post by Alleyoop on Feb 29, 2016 21:01:26 GMT -6
WHAT!! test for spark with the killswitch to KILL. If no spark then do this: splice the GREEN wire next to the GREEN?WHITE wire from the start button and go to ground and Flick the switch to RUN and see if it turns the motor, if it does test for spark.
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Post by Alleyoop on Feb 29, 2016 20:47:19 GMT -6
DO IT "ONLY" if the push button DOES NOTHING with you flick the KILLSWITCH TO RUN.
1. SO first flick the killswitch to run and push the start button. a. IF IT DOES NOTHING then splice the green wire to frame and see if it turns the motor over.
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