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Post by learae on Apr 23, 2013 21:53:03 GMT -6
Thanks I might do that.
So another problem, my tachometer isn't working right. At idle it reads around 7000 RPM. If I give it any throttle at all, the gauge maxes out. Thoughts?
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Post by learae on Apr 22, 2013 17:11:20 GMT -6
Aha! You're a genius and I am so upset with myself for it being so simple. It was the fuse!
I had tested it before with the continuity tester and it tested OK, but today I took it out and swapped it with a new fuse (fuses are cheap may as well) and all my problems are fixed..
I futtsed with the old fuse a bit and found that if I applied pressure on it in one direction it would conduct, and if I applied pressure on it in the other direction and it wouldn't. UGH!
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Post by learae on Apr 18, 2013 21:23:54 GMT -6
Alright I checked the ignition switch and it seems ok. When I measure the voltage at the battery it is that 12.83 V still, but if I measure it at the wiring harness by the ignition switch it is 6.something with the engine running. So it seems I have a short somewhere causing me to lose power. I reseated all the connections everywhere and it was not fixed. I'm frustrated.
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Post by learae on Apr 14, 2013 10:27:44 GMT -6
To be fair I am not an EE... I went to school for Computer Engineering and we covered half of the EE curriculum and half of the SE curriculum. But I do hobbyist circuitry projects on the side. Regulators are always evil. lol.
And yes that's the one I have. I actually already have a scrappydogscooters shopping cart made up, there's a bunch of stuff I want to buy and I've ordered from him a few times already and it's reasonably priced and fast!
I think I am getting addicted o-o
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Post by learae on Apr 13, 2013 22:19:20 GMT -6
I didn't pull the carb yet, but I did test the other CDI and coil.
First I switched the CDI and went for a ride around the block. It was better, didn't get stuck at 4000 RPM and instead it hopped right up to 5000 RPM and we accelerated.
I neglected to try a run around the block before swapping the CDI, I swapped them back after testing but then got distracted with the other scooter.
After the CDI I swapped the coil and saw no change. So I am going to go for a ride with the old CDI and see how it works and confirm the two CDIs are different. If they are, I will replace that.
And after that, it seems more ridable. I managed to get up to 45, but it took a long run. I'm thinking it has to be with the fuel system, or maybe this plastic part labeled PCV that I don't think is a PCV valve... I'll take some pictures for you tomorrow and maybe that is hooked up wrong.
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Post by learae on Apr 13, 2013 22:09:33 GMT -6
(also when I popped the starter switch out to test it, I was futtsing around the ignition switch and surely tapped it a few times which may have caused it to work... until the scooter started vibrating again while running!)
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Post by learae on Apr 13, 2013 22:08:08 GMT -6
Thanks for answering my question before I asked it, I was looking at the wiring diagram and it definitely seems to me like the black wire from the ignition switch isn't being energized with the key in. I will test it.
It makes sense, too. This is all theory deduced from my background in electrical engineering, but with the engine off, it doesn't make contact. With the engine on, the vibrations cause it to make intermittent contact which is enough for the gas gauge which can tolerate that, makes the horn quieter, and the blinkers not work because the flasher is getting turned on and off at the rate of the vibration. That also causes the buzz.
It's rainy and dark outside now, and I already put everything back together when I thought it was fixed. I will take a look tomorrow and see if it is bad, but it certainly makes sense to me. It's a shame that it's an expensive part, $45 on scrappydogscooters.com if I can't get it fixed myself.
Thanks!
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Post by learae on Apr 13, 2013 20:58:44 GMT -6
Is 12.83 V considered low?
I went for a jaunt around the block and the problem came back.
Also the lights are off when the engine is off, even if the key is on. The blinkers still work if the engine is off.
So this has happened with two different regulators, and the starter circuit doesn't go through the regulator at all anyways. So what's up with that?
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Post by learae on Apr 13, 2013 20:14:55 GMT -6
Thanks for the diagram. I swapped the regulator with one from another scooter. I put the thought-bad one into the other scooter and everything still worked fine. So probably not bad... With the new regulator in place on the scooter, nothing worked still. The turn signal relay still made the buzzing noise and it was pretty bad. The starter still didn't work. I checked the main fuse and it was good, but not in the holder all that great. Reseated it. Checked the ignition switch to make sure that was working (it's brand new, I replaced it a week ago) and it was fine. I put the ignition switch back in. Checked and reseated a few other plugs under the hood.. and it fired up! Put the turn signal relay back in and it works again. How strange. But I guess I am rolling again until the next thing breaks. I'm going to keep the bigger regulator in this scooter since I am actually using it. I intend to get the other one running better and then sell it. I don't think the buyer will know if it has a smaller regulator  So hopefully nothing else goes wrong. Are you serious that you're not able to leave the ignition on with the engine off? Seems ridiculous to me that that would break things. Thanks though! |
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Post by learae on Apr 13, 2013 15:00:23 GMT -6
Hi All, These Chinese scooters seem to fall apart faster than... oh wait. Since starting this riding season I had to replace the brakes, fix the speedometer cable... Now today I went to the store and I left the key in the scooter for 5 minutes in the on position with the kill switch off. Normally I don't do that, but it was about to start raining and I was in a hurry and it just slipped my mind. When I came back out I flipped the kill switch on and hit the starter and nothing. The blinkers? nothing. Not even the gas gauge worked. Totally dead.  . So I kick started it, fired right up after a couple kicks. Once running, I noticed that if I turned on the blinkers, something under the dash started to buzz loud. When I turned the blinker off, it continued to buzz but quieted down. Also, the blinkers didn't Blink as much as they just... turned on. The headlights turned on, the brake light turned on, dimly, when I hit the brakes, and the hazard lights didn't work. I also tried to fire the starter and got nothing still. Oh, the gas gauge started working. So we got that. Uhoh. So I got home after a 3 minute ride and did some observations. 1) The battery voltage is 12.83 V with the engine off. 2) The voltage across the battery does not increase when running or when throttle is applied 3) The buzzing was coming from the turn signal relay, which I then disconnected 4) With the turn signal relay disconnected, the electrical problems with the starter and everything else continue to happen. Your advice is appreciated, I don't want to get a new turn signal relay and blow it right away because the problem is elsewhere. What else do you think I should check? Thanks! |
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Post by learae on Apr 13, 2013 14:46:21 GMT -6
Haven't had a chance to swap the CDI and coil yet, the other scooter has been in regular use until today. Now that one's having a problem and I'll make another thread about it.... But just FYI this hasn't been solved yet...
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Post by learae on Apr 5, 2013 22:28:22 GMT -6
I left it out in the parking lot covered with a tarp. It could be possible I suppose that a mouse may have nested in my muffler, but exhaust seems to be coming out.
Honestly at this point I am trying to get it into running condition and then selling it... The other scooter has been running good and reliably, so I am good to go with that one.
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Post by learae on Apr 5, 2013 19:49:48 GMT -6
When I sprayed carburetor cleaner into the pilot jet it came out of the small holes by the butterfly with no problem. I specifically checked for that, so I don't think they're blocked.
It could be the o-ring, but it looked like it was in good shape when I put it back in. Maybe I'll replace it. Maybe I'll replace the whole carb...
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Post by learae on Apr 5, 2013 19:37:42 GMT -6
At 3/4 turns it is about about 1300 RPM. I've gone out another 3/4 turns now and it is still steady at 1300 RPM, no change.
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Post by learae on Apr 5, 2013 19:25:06 GMT -6
It runs with the needle all the way clockwise, but not well. It did eventually die when I started to open it again. I opened it about 3/4 turn before it started to run smoothly again.
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. So I kick started it, fired right up after a couple kicks.