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Post by vansmack2 on Aug 29, 2013 17:38:00 GMT -6
I posted a picture of the Helix specs on page 18. It is 10:1 also.
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Post by vansmack2 on Aug 27, 2013 16:45:57 GMT -6
Just a note. The flexible one won't work for this application. I got a flexible one relatively cheap, and yes they won't work. If I cut the bottom of my bit down to about half its size then it might fit. I did get a mini ratchet like Alley posted, and will try it. |
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Post by vansmack2 on Aug 26, 2013 23:20:25 GMT -6
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Post by vansmack2 on Aug 26, 2013 19:37:39 GMT -6
rsw1158 where did you get that adjustment tool? I have not seen one like that.
It would also be good if you could post pictures of your air cleaner, and pvc valve installation. Also where did you buy your new jet when you rejetted? That is great info you posted.
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Post by vansmack2 on Aug 25, 2013 0:13:03 GMT -6
I know you already started tearing your scooter apart, but I found this info in the Honda Helix manual while I was browsing through it. It is what the compression reading should be. I added the high and low end calculation in red at the right side of the picture.  |
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Post by vansmack2 on Aug 24, 2013 18:18:51 GMT -6
I just checked my Chevy TrailBlazer manual. It says my inline six cylinder has a 10:1 compression ratio like our scooters. It says minimum PSI is 150, and Typical (aka max., normal) is 215 PSI. So now we know the range it should be.
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Post by vansmack2 on Aug 24, 2013 12:15:11 GMT -6
I have the 244cc Honda clone, Linhai compression should be similar. I just downloaded the Linhai manual. Here is the link, and engine specs below. Linhai/Majesty 250 manual majestyscooter.uw.hu/Letoltes/250/YP250_Service_Man_1996.pdfI went back and poured a little oil into the cylinder since my scooter has been sitting a lot. I probably got too much in because it shot up past 250 PSI. I cranked and retried several times. After a few minutes it got down to about 170 to 175 range. Linhai 250 Engine Specs  14 Bar = 203 PSI www.convertunits.com/from/bar/to/psi |
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Post by vansmack2 on Aug 24, 2013 11:56:16 GMT -6
I found a really old (maybe 20 years) compression gauge in my garage, and tired it. I got a reading of about 155 PSI. The gauge may be off a bit.
Like I said I think the 165 you got is fine.
Hopefully your problem is the loose drive belt.
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Post by vansmack2 on Aug 24, 2013 10:58:26 GMT -6
I have been reading trying to find a definite answer and have not found one. I think that 165 reading is fine. There is not a definitive answer because it depends on when the intake and exhaust valves close, but 165 is a good number. Others can chime in with their opinion. If I have a compression gauge around I can compare mine.
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Post by vansmack2 on Aug 23, 2013 19:23:11 GMT -6
I don't know what the 600 rpm is either. I only know cars. You just remove a plug, attached the gauge, crank the engine, then check the pressure.
I read a few forums to try to figure out the compression number. It sounds like the 213 psi should be in the ballpark of a good 10 to 1 compression engine. There are other factors that effect compression readings besides just the compression ratio though, such as how long the valves are open, and at what point in the stroke they open and close.
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Post by vansmack2 on Aug 23, 2013 0:00:10 GMT -6
Your belt is about 873 or 874 and definitely too long. I would also check the compression like Alley said too be sure you cover all the bases. I totally understand your frustration, but check all that is suggested. None of us are there with you to see, or check things for ourselves, so we have to make educated guesses. Take care. I checked the Honda Helix 250 manual I have in PDF form. It says the 244cc Honda engine has 10.0:1 compression, and should be 213 psi at 6oo rpm. See the picture below.  |
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Post by vansmack2 on Aug 22, 2013 23:10:34 GMT -6
I ordered a small ratchet similar to what Alley posted, just a different brand. It should be here by tomorrow (FRIDAY 8/23/13). I ordered a flexible carb. adjusting tool. I put my 1/4 flat blade bit in the tool, but still could not get it into the carb. screw because it was tool long. If I cut down a 1/4 inch bit to make it much shorter the flexible carb. adjust tool would probably work. It is basically just a flexible 1/4 inch bit screwdriver. They make another type of carb. screwdriver that looks like it would work good. It cost $22 or more depending on where you buy it. Below is a picture of that type.  |
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Post by vansmack2 on Aug 17, 2013 0:28:16 GMT -6
Thanks Alleyoop,
I did not even think of that. I have bits, I just don't have the ratchet. I am heading to Harbor Freight Saturday morning to see what I can come up with. There are a few things I want to get there, like zip ties for one, and maybe some small plastic containers that I need for my slot car hobby.
It is still going to be very hard to get to. The right side has the thermostat, and other hoses in the way. The left side has the air intake system blocking the way.
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Post by vansmack2 on Aug 16, 2013 21:20:55 GMT -6
I want to try and adjust my air/fuel ratio since I checked my spark plug and it looks like it is running a little rich. I have the carb. pictured below, and as you should be able to see from the pic below the damn screw is on the bottom middle of the back side of the carb., right close to the cylinder head. It is next to impossible to reach it. I guess I have to get a special flexible screwdriver and hope that works.  By the way, I am also going to check my enricher for proper operation. It looked like it was already extended when I took it off today, without even running the bike at all. It is close to 100 degrees today, so that might be why it looks to be already extended. |
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Post by vansmack2 on Aug 13, 2013 20:03:38 GMT -6
I tested my thermostat today, and it worked perfectly. I took a wire coat hanger, cut it up, and made a hanger to suspend my thermostat in a pan of water. I heated the water to about 180 degrees using a meat thermometer to test the temperature. The thermostat opened about this much ----- (may vary on your PC, but looks right on mine) Specs says it should open 3.4 - 4.5 mm, which it did. I will put the thermostat back in, refill the coolant, and burp the system good. Also my new fuel sensor/float should be here by Thursday. I sure hope this solves all of my issues! Below are pics of my procedure for the Honda 244cc clone. The board may use them as they see fit. First you have to drain the coolant.  Remove any items in your way, like the r/r, and hoses.  Start disconnecting hoses, and the thermosensor wire.  Remove the thermostat housing. The bolts may be hard to get to.  It is removed time to test the thermostat.  I made a hanger to test my thermostat.  Reverse the procedure to put everything back together. Fill the coolant, and burp the system. |
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