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justguy1 if you disconnected the plug from the switch so that the switch was no longer connected, and your lights were still on, then you must have a short between your hot wire (positive) and the wires in your light circuit.

If possible carefully inspect your wiring from the positive terminal of the battery and the lighting, even if you have to take it out of the insulation around a bundle of wires. You can buy replacement conduit/insulation once the problem is resolved. You must have a bare spot in the wiring somewhere, and/or a pinched connection where a hot wire is touching the lighting wires.

I know I can live without battery boots, but I prefer to have them to keep things looking nice, and for added safety. I have been looking online for ones like the flexible rectangular ones most of these Chinese scoots come with, but have not located the correct ones yet. I have come close though. Does anyone here know where to get battery cable boots that are very close to those original flexible ones?

That is what my mother said when I showed her my handy work.

Here is a tutorial on how I repaired some of my broken body tabs in case anyone wants to try the same.

Materials:
Aluminum bar stock strip (for hook shaped tabs), aluminum flashing (for round hole tabs), hot glue, liquid steel, some tape (I used duct tape), a little bit of cardboard (or something similar), goof off or other cleaner to clean up excess liquid steel.

Tools:
Rotary tool (Dremel), grinder, hot glue gun, needle nosed pliers, file (optional).

Hook type tab replacement:

Step 1:
Get a piece of aluminum bar stock. I used a piece that is 1/16" x 3/4" by 3' long. (see first pic)

Step 2:
Hold the end of the aluminum strip up against a good hook tab, and mark it with a pencil (or very fine tipped marker if it will fit). Mark the end curve, the inside of the hook and the inside lip edge of the body panel. you will also need to mark a vertical line on the strip about the with of smaller part of the hook tab. See the first pic for a better understanding. Mark a line about 1/2" below your body lip mark, since this is where you will cut the replacement hook tab off. If you used a pencil go over it with a permanent marker to mark the areas to be ground and cut. See the first pic for how it should look.

Step 3:
Grind the end of the aluminum strip round. Cut out the hook tab part with the Dremel, then cut your finished piece off.

Step 4:
Use your dremel to carefully grind down the plastic where the old tab was so that your new tab will lay flush with the edge of the plastic. Go slowly and test fit several times until you have it correct. You can use a file if you prefer.

Step 5:
Put a small amount of hot glue on the groove you just cut then insert your new tab. (Note: This is just to hold the tab in place until the liquid steel has time to set.) Repeat process to replace additional tabs.

Round type tab replacement:

Step 6:
For round hole tabs cut a strip of the thin flashing about 5/8" to 3/4" wide and bend it to form using needle nose pliers, then hot glue the ends of it in place to temporarily hold it.

Now apply liquid steel:

Step 7:
Mix enough liquid steel to glue in all your tabs. It will take a good amount.

Step 8:
Fill the area between the new hook tabs and the body panel with liquid steel. Put strips of cardboard on the ends to keep the liquid steel from running out before it dries. (see the pics)

Step 9:
If you made any replacement round hole tabs fill the space between the two sides of the new tab with liquid steel. Wrap tape around the metal to keep the liquid steel from running out before it dries.

Step 10:
Set you body panels upright to dry for at least 12 hours. You should check them every once in a while for the first few hours to see if any liquid steel if coming out, and clean it up if it does.

Step 11 (final):
Now that everything is dry you can remove the cardboard pieces, remove any tape used, and do any necessary final sanding, filing, hole drilling, etc. as needed.

Now for the pics:

Pic 1 the aluminum bar stock for hook tab repair.


Pic 2 the aluminum flashing for the round hole repair.


Finished tab with cardboard still in place.


Same as above, but different angle.


Two replaced tabs and one original. A small amount of liquid steel on this side.


Other side of above panel.


Good round hole tab.


Round hole tab repair.


Round hole tab repair pic 2.

I think I can do that if I remember. I might get to it next week, but not sure. I am taking my time because I don't actually need the scoot finished for a while.

I have a spare rear tire 120/90-10 already on a rim. When I do get a new tire it will be L rated or better. There does not seem to be as many tires available in this size, but I did find a Metzeler ME 7 Teen Scooter Tires 120/90-10 66L TL for a decent price of $39.82 currently (may change by the time I am ready to order), regular around $50.