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Post by natedoggaz on Apr 24, 2018 12:33:24 GMT -6
man... what a total P.I.T.A. - found the culprit... !!
A yellow wire going to the stator - and a few other things - somehow shorted out and fused with what appears to be a black ground wire...
The trick I used was to turn on the ignition for maybe 5 seconds - which gave enough time for the wires to get warm before the fuse blew. I just felt around for those warm wires and followed them to where the short was...
I cut out the short and spliced the wires back together.
Starts up great and runs now!
ND
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Post by natedoggaz on Apr 23, 2018 11:01:30 GMT -6
Hey all, Having a major issue with my scoot blowing fuses. The battery fuse (10a) keeps blowing or wanting to blow... I have disconnected virtually everything - all front lights, all tail lights, starter, CDI, solenoid, voltage regulator...etc... And the battery fuse wants to blow just by turning on the ignition..! I would put my hand on the fuse and when it stars to get warm, I switch it off. The only thing I found that stopped the scoot from wanting to blow the fuse was when I disconnected the STATOR. I started snipping wires (5 wire stator) and spliced them back until I found the culprit. The wire that made the fuse want to blow was the yellow stator wire. With the other 4 wires still connected (white and green, and the other 2 separate wires) the fuse did not want to blow... Is it possible I have a bad stator that is causing these issues?? ...Or any thoughts would be much appreciated... Thank you!! ND Read more: itistheride.boards.net/thread/10592/150cc-jonway-keeps-blowing-fuses#ixzz5DW2mWpe1
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Post by natedoggaz on Mar 3, 2017 12:50:28 GMT -6
Found out the issue was in part (or in whole) due to a faulty petcock! The petcock was not sealed properly and was leaking everywhere... It was definitely not manufactured correctly because I was able to twist the inlet where the vacuum line connects... so returning it back to Amazon...
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Post by natedoggaz on Mar 2, 2017 12:33:33 GMT -6
Got the new Tygon fuel line yesterday with the 3/16 ID - tried it on a spare petcock and man is it a tight fit.... almost like I don't need clamps...
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Clinician
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Post by natedoggaz on Feb 28, 2017 11:21:48 GMT -6
Crap... I just spent $20 on that stuff.... urgh...
Oh well... going to get the 3/16 ID then. May use the 1/4 ID as spares for vac lines I guess.
Thanks for the input!!
ND
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Post by natedoggaz on Feb 28, 2017 10:35:07 GMT -6
I recently bought some of the Clear Yellow Tygon Fuel Line 1/4" ID X 3/8" OD.
But it is leaking at the first inlet of the petcock...
It is SUPER easy to pull off and the fuel clamps do nothing to hold it on let alone hold all the fuel in.
Should I have went with the 3/16 ID tube?
What do you guys use?
Thanks!
ND
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Post by natedoggaz on Feb 21, 2017 17:48:13 GMT -6
Great - thanks!
I have confirmed that the stator is A/C (5 wires) and the CDI should also be A/C - it is quite small. I also have 5 wires going to the CDI (3 and 2) so will just solder the new pigtails I bought onto the stator and harness.
The new pigtails are rated at 300/500v and a max of 10amp (AC or DC) so should be plenty enough..
ND
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Post by natedoggaz on Feb 21, 2017 13:11:57 GMT -6
Hello, I recently purchased and installed a new GY6 engine. 150cc / 157QMJ I have everything almost all connected up - except for the stator. The 3-wire connector on the new engine (yellow, green, and white wires) will not connect to the current wiring harness. The plastic plug connectors are different... Is it as simple as cutting off the current plastic connectors and getting 2 new male and female pigtail connectors, soldering/splicing them on and then connecting it all up? Any suggestions would help... FYI - here is what I got just in case: www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01A6M2ZN6/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s02?ie=UTF8&psc=1Thanks!
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